20 Most Recent 1985 Ford Mustang - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Generally on the fords, you'll find the Hi-pressure hose is the one coming out of the pump with a swivel connection allowing movement of the pipe. The return line is clamped to the PS pump.

To always be absolutely sure with a pump, remove the lines & turn the pump in the correct direction to see which outlet forces fluid out.

My guess you have a carburetor on it. The accelerator pump may not be working, Therefore when you open the butterflys you are adding air, but without the extra fuel to go with it,

do you mean a petrol leak ?? or do you have a gas conversion on this vehicle

Electric choke from the factory,the choke pull off runs off of power from the alternators stator post which supplies about 7 volts when its running.Spring tension and a stomp on the throttle set it.

it is the plate that the coil packs are attached to

Headlight switch

Viewing the Mustang from the front, the water pump turns to the left. (So does the harmonic balancer below)

The 3/4 inch, and 5/8 inch nipples on the water pump?
Heater core that was removed. IN at the top, OUT at the bottom.

I presume that you are talking about the bottom portion. Typically, these release by pushing rearward, (not easily done). it helps to depress the rear coushion, but the seat framework needs to move backwards about an inch or two.

Hopefully there is not much gas in the tank. There are just a few things that need taked off to drop the fuel tank. The hardest may be the exhaust. But may not be in te way. There are two straps that carries the tank. Unbolt the side at the back of the car. Then it should drop. Might want to use a jack to hold the tank up if has a lot of fuel. The pump is in the tank.

Are the teeth on the flywheel worn?

Normally on the old style starter solenoid/relay you have two large bolts for the battery and starter cables to attach to. There are two other smaller bolts that are used for the starter actuation. The "I" is used to add voltage to the points so the engine will start while the solenoid is in the start position, the other "S" goes to the start button or start side of the ignition switch. Old style ignitions used to drop the voltage to the coil during start and the engine would turn and turn until the key was released and then the engine would catch and start. To cure this they made the solenoids were designed to give temp power to the ignition system when cranking and starting. Hope this helps, RAC

This may help.A relay is just a switch that's used to isolate a control circuits power source from the device's that it's being used to switch.On motor vehicles the relay is genarally grounded to the chassis and all you need to supply is a positive lead to turn it on.Here's a quick schematic,The negative is to the chassis,the positive leads need to be kept on separate circuits,but note the relay can switch either direction.

under the dash on the left of the steering wheel way up in the dash. U have to get down on your knee's to see it.

Hi there. I had a lincoln towncar around the same year do the same thing and it was the waterpump. I doubt its just the gasket since it is overheating all the time now. The pump on mine was for the 5.0(302) it was 28 dollars but it was not real easy to change as far as waterpumps go. I would get a hayes or chiltons manual if your not real farmiliar with these before attempting to change it.

You can put the 302 in it also. But, if you are going to change the engine from the original you will need to match the electronics to the new engine. In other words you will need to get the correct module for the engine to match the firing order and fuel air parameters. It can be done, but you need to know precisely what you are doing. I hop this hasn't discouraged you. Then there is going to be the task of obtaining the correct linkages and cables to the throttle. Good luck. If you need more help jump back onto this site and ask. We are glad to help out.

go to ford.com or helm incorporated. They will sell you one for @ $20

well its been a while sense i have done one of thies, but i believe you have to unbolt both motor mounts and jack engine up as far as you can to get the pan off. if you can't get the pan off after you got engine jacked up as far as you can, you will have to unbolt front pump and take them both out at one time. and samething when you put it back together.if anything the picup tube is what will give you trouble, thats why you have to unbolt the pump.

unless both headlights burnt out at once, i would say its headlight switch, or possibly the dimmer switch, if it was me instead of paying the long dollar at a parts store i would get both out of a bone yard and try it, you only be out a couple bucks if that is not it. most parts stores you can't return electrical parts.

sounds like to me that the ignition is bad and sticking on the start positon