20 Most Recent 1984 Ford Mustang - Page 9 Questions & Answers

SOUNDS LIKE HEAVY LOAD ON UP DIRECTION. MY GUESS IS A FUSEABLE LINK HEATS UP, STOPS ELECTRICITY, COOLS DOWN AND RECONNECTS. IF UNDER WARRANTY, GO TO SELLER. IF NOT A FREE REPAIR, WITH THE WINDOW DOWN, YOU COULD USE A SILICONE SPRAY ON THE THE VISIBLE WINDOW TRACKS. ALSO YOU COULD HAVE ANOTHER PERSON USE THEIR PALMS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE WINDOW TO ASSIST IN RAISING IT UP A FEW TIMES. IF THESE ACTIONS DON'T CURE THE RESISTANCE THEN A LOCAL MECHANIC OR GLASS INSTALLER COULD INSPECT THE CAUSE.

Do you have spark at any of the plugs ?

Should be a 20amp fuse marked " DRL fog horns " in the engine compartment fuse box.

FREE drawings for you Mustang can found on BBB Industries website... at BBB Industries Premium Alternators Starters Power Steering Products These are REAL documents so REGISTRATION is required I would be looking for that very huge body plug assembly that goes through the fire-wall (is secure)... ALSO check out the TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS (TSBs)... Every time you return from a CIRCUIT it will default you to the TSB listings... Go there... When these MANUFACTURES do the bad thing... all their Apprentice (rookies) start there (good idea). Hope this helps Carnac the Magnificent

Some of the older cars with ignition switches in the steering column use rods to engage a switch in the lower part of the column, usually under the dash. The key switch may have gotten worn enough to get the rods out of alignment or maybe even bent. This is a 22 year old car and things can wear. The key switch may have to be replaced.

You must check the module for moisture or bent pins or not tight enough what size motor is it and who did the rebuild also please try to be more specific right now I don't know what you have in it as a motor and is it a swap from an 6-8 or is it 5.0-4.6 ?

Yes, too lean is the problem. Just means "not enough gas" is flowing. Could be as littlie as a plugged up gas filter or worst scenario, a bad fuel pump. Either way, it isn't getting enough fuel into the engine. When it WAS running, and you pushed the throttle all the way open, it was then getting way too much air for what little fuel was going in. That's why it did what you said.

The twenty amp maxi fuse in the under the hood fuse panel goes to, you guessed it, the fuel pump. It sounds to me like you have a short to ground in the wiring that keeps popping this fuse. Find and fix the short, or you will keep blowing fuses.

This is a Ford specific OBDII code that means either your vacuum control regulator is either faulty or you have a short to ground or a short to power in the circuit. Hope this helps. How to Test the Ford EGR Valve EGR Vacuum Solenoid DPFE Sensor

OEM thermestat opens at 190 degrees.

Check your battery and make sure its around 12.6 volts. If it is, then check and make sure you have good tight solid connection on battery terminals. If that's ok, check to make sure you have good connections of both power and ground wires at your starter. Also double check your ground strap from the block to the frame. 75% of all electrical problems on a car are bad grounds!

Hi try to do learn before you change i think its will solve the problem maybe you disconect the battery and the learn erased if not work good change it .

There is a lock on the gear selector that requires a signal from the switch on the brake or clutch pedal. This switch often gets broken or dislodged from its holder and then will not release the shifter. Kind of strange for engine to start as the lockout is suppose to be 2 fold. To prevent starting by stopping the signal to the starter relay and next by locking the shift in Park. Check under dash at those pedal levers.

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F4 30 amp under hood fuse box , F45 5amp - smart junction box ( passenger compartment fuse box ) right or left kick panel probably . Also ,there is a blower motor relay - under hood fuse box. You can check those but don't think it would be one of those . More then likely it's the blower motor speed controller .