20 Most Recent 1989 Ford F 250 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

If the old solenoid had a bad short it may have put your new starter out of commission. Have the starter tested-it should still have warranty for repllacement.

the headers are heating up the starter best bet is to install a heat deflector between the starter and the headers, common problem

First of all, was the lock cylinder, the part where your key goes in? Or was it the ignition switch, located on the lower end of your steering column, near your feet? If this is a problem relative to a tilt steering unit, and having to replace a lock cylinder due to a lost key and thus having had to break the lock cylinder out, then yes, you will have to disassemble the column to replace the broken pot metal piece that connects your lock cylinder to your ignition switch on your steering column. These units are tricky and quite difficult to work on, unless you have a lot of patience and a very good mechanical mind or education. Now, if this is merely relative to the replacement of the actual ignition switch located near your feet on the column, then it is much simpler to deal with. Typically the problem that everyone seems to run up against is when they replace the switch, but when they turn the key, the vehicle does not turn over or even try to start. This is just an adjustment of the switch itself. loosen the 2 bolts or nuts slightly so that t is still somewhat tight, and slide the switch in small increments either direction, making certain to tighten them both again after each new slide you make until you are able to start and shut off your vehicle normally. In some cases the long rod running from the lock cylinder to the ignition switch will get bent and not work properly. ?Either et a new onr from a dealership or local wrecking yard. In the first case I addressed concerning the tilt steering column, it is a usually cheaper solution to simply go to your local wrecking yard and purchase another column than it is to have a mechanic repair or rebuild your old one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=071sDEBUODQ

under / behind your glove box ....... F150 cabin filter install wmv

If charging light is on, it means some thing in the charging system is going bad. use a test light!-- battery voltage at battery when truck is off should be at least 12.6 or better, if alternator was charging good. if less than 12.4 and it is charging ok. battery is going bad. when engine is running, at the battery there should be at least 13.8 to 14.2 volts or better.if alternator is ok, all checks are done at the battery posts to determine voltage. Hope this helps you out! if less than 13.8 or lower while running. alt, is bad.

The tool part number is 310-052,but wherever you get filter they should have the tool on the shelf. It's just the fuel line disconnect tool, very common.

Not really a car repair question, but its about 95 miles between the two points, so half way would somewhere around Oceanside.

Use a test light! First understand, that a few circuits, like the brake lights and horn, are hot at all times. Turn the key to accessory and a few more are powered up (radio, heater blower, etc.), but if you turn the key to on, all fuses on the truck will be powered-will have current to and through them. Use a test light to check both for power to the fuse and whether the fuse is good or blown. On the tops of all fuses are two small slots-one at each end. These are testing ports to check for power-the slot is open to the metal strip inside a fuse-the strip that blows or snaps apart if an overload is on the circuit. So you take a test light grounded to a piece of metal, and use the needle probe of tester to touch into the slots on the fuse, key on. If power is on the circuit as it should be, at least one side of the fuse will light the test light. Power comes in on one side of the fuse, goes through it, and then travels on through the wire. To test fuses, touch both ends of the fuse: a good fuse will light the tester in both slots, both ends. A blown fuse will light the tester on only one end-the fuse has blown and won't pass power through it. You can test any fuse this way, without having to pull the fuse out to inspect it. Plus, if you are troubleshooting a circuit, you can determine if power is getting to the fuse panel. It's a double whammy!

No, not a relay. The ignition switch is too central to the electrical system. It sends power out to most circuits on the vehicle-those that are designated "hot in accessory, run, start" or some that are only "hot in run or start". Being central, it requires a direct battery source, a "hot at all times" source. Anytime the battery is hooked up, the yellow wire to the ignition switch is a hot wire (actually 2 yellow wires-they splice off before entering the switch or before entering the electrical connector for the switch). The source is Fusible Link M on the starter relay, one of many Fusible Links there, and tied in with the positive battery cable connection. So also, the alternator link is there, so is the headlight switch, the hazard and brake lights Fusible Link, and some others that do supply relays (fuel pump, eec relay, etc.). But Fuse Link M is dedicated to only the ignition switch. If you have no power at the connection to the switch, look at fuse link M. It should have some identifying legend or mark. Where you saw the sparks, was it at the switch itself or the electrical connector to it? Either way you will have to check. If at the switch, It could be a bad switch, and may have also blew out the fusible link. If at the connector, check if it damaged the connector and is losing contact. Post back with what you find. Good luck.

Check for an impact switch they had one on cars these years,It cut fuel pump and ECM, see in your operating manuel where they put it, you had to push on the red button whith your finger to recet it It is hiden in the body somewhere, could be your problem,we use to bang the fender to make it trip for a joke

Check for black smoke out of the tail-pipe when the engine is revved. Black smoke means unburned fuel. The most likely culprit is a plugged air filter/air intake. A plugged exhaust, especially the catalytic convertor will kill your fuel economy and power. It may also be in need of a good tune-up (spark plugs, filters, ignition wires, distributor cap/rotor). Also check tire pressures and make sure that you don't have any seized brakes.

Get fuel pressure tester to see if you don't have enough to start car. could be fuel line leak

Fuel Pump?