1986 Ford F 250 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

it sounds like the starter is bad or the selinoid is bad wich is normally on the starter

Mice love to chew and will make a meal or a nest from almost anything - the trouble is, the evidence of mice you can see that is repairable, is often surpassed by the damage that can't be seen. A mouse can squeeze through any gap that a pencil will fit through. It is probable many vehicle fires are caused by mice. The only practical way to proceed is to search the vehicle for further evidence of mice, to remove any debris and repair obvious damage and hope for the best...

https://www.carid.com/1986-ford-f-250-transmission-fluid/

Firing order should cast on your intake manifold in the front/top.

Ford has owner manual online https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/how-tos/owner-manuals.html?gnav=header-owner I also recommend HAYNES manuals for detailed instructions. https://haynes.com/en-us/ Many trucks do have an in line fuel filter under the bed.

I hope you cleaned the fuel line so there weren't any cuttings in the line? I would have probably used a small round file to clean burrs inside metal line. I don't know liter size of engine? I looked at 5.0L--carbed engine--fuel pressure 5--7 psi. If your fuel injected, the pressure is a lot higher.

The age 1986 warrants a fuel pump replacement. Check for rodent damage in the fuel tank harness area when you install new pump. Also change the fuel filter.

Could they possibly have gotten the timing(check it with a light) off or distributor turned wrong? don-ohio

remove power steering pump for access if needed and remove fuel lines and return line remove two bolts holding pump and replace w/ new gasket.

You give no engine information or any information on what testing you have done (if any), do I can't really help at this point sorry.

My best guess is plugs and/or plug wires, carb or distributor/points. If you haven't changed plugs, wires or points since '86, you are lucky it runs at all. Additionally, could be a crack in the distributor or problems with the coil wire.

I had one do that one time because it had a body ground disconnected.

The dealer sells these as one piece with the slave, master and line all together and already bled which is very difficult to do on this.

First check all your fuses and replace as needed. Then check all your grounds/powers at cluster connector(get wire diagram). If all power/ ground check fine you will need a cluster assembly.

what do u have hooked up to it??? pull all the fuses and check each one

When facing the engine from the front of the truck, the cylinders are numbered from front left to rear left side of engine 1234. the right side would ten be from front to back 5678. The firing order for a 302cid engine (5.0 litre) is 15426378. The number 1 plug wire in your distributor cap should typically be located on the back side of the cap itself, but the best way to know is to pop the cap and turn your engine over by bumping your starter momentarily until you get your timing marks where you can see them on your harmonic balancer. To ensure you are at top dead center, you may want to pull spark plug number one and stick a screwdriver into the hole. If the screwdriver is stopped because it hits something right away, this means you are 180degrees off and will need to again bump your starter until you once again align your timing marks and then check the cylinder with your screwdriver. this time it should easily enter the cylinder. replace your spark plug and attach the plug wire to the spark plug. Now looking at the rotor underneath the distributor cap, the position it is pointing to is where you plug in wire number 1. You wire your distributor cap counter-clockwise 15426378. I hope this helps you out.

It sounds like you need to replace the catalytic converter. It will cause all of these symptoms.

if hydraulic operation then replace the master cylinder as the compensating port is blocked . If cable clutch then check adjustment and connection to the throw out arm

If you removed the pin and it still won't budge. Bite the bullet and replace it all. I replace all of it anyway. I don't like taking chances. Since your doing it yourself, your saving a load of shop rate money..Do it right.

RELACE THE PRESSURE REGULATOR ON THE FUEL RAIL