1981 Ford Bronco - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

have you gotten an answer for the wiring on your 82 ford bronco w a 351C? i have the same problem putting a 351C into my 81 ford bronco

1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. Number one plug is on passengerside.1-2-3-4 front to back. Drivers side 5-6-7-8. Front to back. Point gap 17-19. Number one wire should go in the one o'clock post on the cap.

Yes they both have the same part number and will interchange.

Some had the filter like GM in the carburetor where the fuel line goes in. Some were in the line and some of the fuel injected models had it on the frame rail. If thyis helps any one please rate it thanks

Yes, you have a dead short / either Hot to Hot, or Hot to ground. Very likely a shorted bulb or bulb socket. Maybe a crushed wiring location under the chassis ?

you have to remove diff cover. it does have a fill hole, keep looking

you will have to remove the motor, pull oil pan replace crank and change the push rods and cam but if your are going that far why stop for just that little bit you might as well go and pull he heads have them port and pollished add headers and new high rise intake and bigger carb the remove the oem fan and water pump buy a electric water pump and electric fans to mount on the radatior.

Did you just hook this up or was it working before? First batt voltage should not drop below 9.6v under load/cranking, second thing comes too mind is if your running a ballast resistor and where you have pos. wire for point less ignition-before or after ballast resistor alot of pointless ignitions want you to get the power before resistor so the ignition module has enough voltage to work with. also you can check voltage at coil during cranking to see- you need to be above about 7 volts or so. Also little known fact, if you have stater sol. on firewall/fender and you have second small terminal labeled "I" if you connect this directly to coil pos. it will apply full batt to coil during start only-by passing resistor.

it sits in a box above your passenger's feet. this is not a big project as it precedes all the airbags and wrap around dashboards. may want to find an old chiltons or haynes on ebay. most likely very cheap.

I'm pretty sure I could find you one. How much were you looking to pay for it? (I don't get 'em free, ya know...) Email me at [email protected]

sorry but it need to be rebuild there is no small fix sorry

go to this link, maybe this info help you:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/12689

Have a ford dealer run your vin number and see if the motor is the original. It should have a tag on the side somewhere.

in the cab, but procedures are different depending on whether or not you have A/C. See below

1980-81 Comfort Vent Heaters, Without Air Conditioning

1. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core tubes and plug the hoses with suitable 5 / 8 inch; (16mm) plugs.
2. Remove the glove compartment liner.
3. Remove two (2) spring clips attaching the heater core cover to the plenum along the top edge of the heater core cover.
4. Remove eight (8) screws attaching the heater core cover to the plenum and remove the cover.
5. Remove the heater core from the plenum taking care not to spill coolant from the core.

To install:

1. Install the heater core in the plenum.
2. Install the heater core cover (eight (8) screws and two (2) spring clips along the top edge of the cover).
3. Install the glove compartment liner.
4. Connect the heater hoses to the heater core. Tighten the hose clamps.
5. Add coolant to raise the coolant level to specification.
6. Check the system for proper operation and for coolant leaks.

1980-81 Standard & High Output Heaters, Without Air Conditioning

1. Disconnect the temperature cable from the temperature blend door and the mounting bracket on top of the heater case.
2. Disconnect the wires from the blower motor resistor and the blower motor.
3. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core and plug the hoses with suitable 5 / 8 inch; (16mm) plugs.
4. Working under the instrument panel, remove two (2) nuts retaining the left end of the heater case and the right end of the plenum to the dash panel.
5. In the engine compartment, remove one (1) screw attaching the top center of the heater case to the dash panel.
6. Remove two (2) screws attaching the right end of the heater case to the dash panel, and remove the heater case from the vehicle.
7. Remove nine (9) screws and one (1) bolt and nut attaching the heater housing plate to the heater case, and remove the heater housing plate.
8. Remove three (3) screws attaching the heater core frame to the heater case and remove the frame.
9. Remove the heater core and seal from the heater case.

To install:

1. Position the heater core and seal in the heater case.
2. Install the heater core frame (3 screws).
3. Position the heater housing plate on the heater case and install the nine (9) screws and one (1) bolt and nut.
4. Position the heater case to the dash panel and install the three (3) attaching screws.
5. Working in the passenger compartment, install two (2) nuts to retain the heater case and plenum right end to the dash panel.
6. Connect the heater hoses to the heater core. Tighten the hose clamps.
7. Connect the wires to the blower motor resistor assembly.
8. Connect the blower motor wires.
9. Position (slide) the self-adjusting clip on the temperature cable to a position approximately one 1 inch; (25.4mm) from the cable end loop.
10. Snap the temperature cable on the cable mounting bracket of the heater case. Then, position the self-adjusting clip on the door crank arm.
11. Adjust the temperature cable.
12. Check the system for proper operation.

go here for owner manual with fuse box diagram if you don't have manual. I may have one, not sure.

http://www.fordparts.com/Landing/Motorcraft.aspx

Usually a tune-up will help. Distributor points, spark plugs and check vacuum lines around base of carburetor.

Here are some images that might help to assist you, and let me know if you require any further assistance.


Adjust the curb idle with the engine warmed up and the choke off.




The air/fuel mixture screws should be adjusted with the engine warmed up and at normal idle speed, then turn each air/fuel mixture screw in one at a time until the engine just begins to mis-fire, then back the air/fuel mixture screw out 1-1/2 to 2 turns out a half a turn at a time until the engine idle is the smoothest. (your vehicle might have restrictor caps over the air/fuel mixture screws to limit the amount of adjustment)






The choke adjustments;






To adjust the vacuum tension pull on the choke pull-off:





Adjust the fast idle screw to the proper RPM with the engine cold and the choke on.

you might find the diagram inside the fuse box cover .....hope this helps.....cheers

This vintage of ford electronic ignition systems had a common problem with the ignition modules and the pick-up inside the distributor. I would replace both just because they're overdue and I wouldn't want to risk getting stranded somewhere.

CYLINDER HEAD BOLT TORQUE IS 65 - 70 FT LBS.