20 Most Recent 1981 Ford Bronco - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Sounds like a vacuum leak check around the manifold

Have your Mass Air Flow Sensor checked.

Its pretty typical for those window motors to burn up. I had to replace the motor and switch in mine. Typically they run $40-$60.

I wish to fit nudge bar to my territory, is there an instruction manual available

Learn to test automotive system before replacing parts you don't need . Or take it to a qualified repair shop , that is unless you like wasting money an making part store's rich .

I just sold my bronco and I wish I had it back. The Ford ECU is very reliable And rarely needs to be changed. When encountering drive ability problems, always start with the cheapest fixes first. 1) Air filter 2) Fuel filter 3) Coolant temp.sensor 4) Possibly Throttle position sensor. Then add 1 can of B&G44K fuel additive to full tank of 91 octane fuel. This additive is the best on the market (Do not substitute). The B&G will Absorb water (ethanol) and condition aging fuel pump and clean injectors. Everything I just listed is 1/2 what you paid for the ECU. Do an ODBII test and delete stored faults (Codes) and retest for any new faults . When running properly, this 5.8 engine should be close 13 MPG. The next cheapest fix will be the oxygen sensor. Be sure to check The OBDII .

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have you taken the dizzy cap of and turned the motor over to see if there is sparking inside ... do this in the dark it helps to see sparks and shorts jumping across contacts.

Push the button to see if it goes off. If not. Have the transmission codes read.

New??? That's funny. your best bet is to follow the car parts flee markets. You might find them there. They have like, four events here Indy a year( but they are all over the place). Get all the old parts you want.

no no no

Duplicate question.

Poor connection at the battery cables. Very low voltage on the battery or a bad starter motor.

this is the front cylinder on the passenger side.

Try replacing the coolant temp sensor. It could be giving a false reading, telling the computer to add fuel.

A #10 wire and a 20 amp fuse should be good. On older fords, you can connect the choke to the stator terminal on the alternator (marked S or STA). On newer models, you need to use a relay.

There are 2 fuel pumps. one in the tank. and one on the rail under the driver. also check the relays under the hood.

look under the hood on the driver side and see if you have a ignition module mounted on the side. it will have a puddle of black stuff running out of it. replace. btw sometimes its mounted on the distributer but does the same thing. when they get hot they quit working. dont bother taking to be tested because they will test good when cooled off. I used to put a bag of ice on mine till it started lol