20 Most Recent 1981 Ford Bronco - Page 3 Questions & Answers

sound like rear main oil seal is leaking.

popping & a jerky feeling is normal on this vehicle when 4X4 is used on drive pavement. if stuck in 4X4, are the hubs on or off?

Jack the vehicle up and use a jack stand to support the axle lifted. I f you have disc brakes remove the loaded caliper now.Remove the manual locking hub by removing the allen head bolts. Once the locking hub is removed look on the very edge on the inside of the hub and you will see a small metal snap ring. Use a hooked shaped metal awl to hook the ring and pull out and around the ring gently. When you get it to where you can hold it with your fingers grab it and remove it so it doesn't jump out of the hub and fly off somewhere so you can't find it.
Then you will see a big nut on the spindle. Bend the locking ring tabs back so you can place a socket on the nut to loosen it and remove it. Then remove the locking ring from the spindle by pulling it towards you. Then use the socket to loosen and remove the next nut. Then the hub ready to remove. Make sure you replace the inner wheel seal before you place the hub back onto the spindle. Just reassemble the hub in the reverse of what I have told you here. A piece of cake. Anyone can do this if you follow the directions. Good luck.

the shims are not why you go thru starters. Usually its caused because the heat shield was not reinstalled or the wiring is bad. Bad wiring causes the stater to draw lots of amps leading to overheating and damage. If the truck runs go to a repar shop and have them do a starter cranking test. If it passes then I would be looking for a heatshield if missing

sounds like your timing is way off,if no timing gun and you dont have specs,loosen your distributer a bit and rev your engine to about3000 rpm and just listen to the engine while you slightly turn the distibuter until it is the smoothest sounding with no sputtering then tighten your distributer back up or pay the bucks get it timed at a shop its cheap

check timing, could have been driven without your knowledge 

No it will not

There is a governor in the transmission,look on the side of trans,and there is a bubble shaped cup,this comes off,this is the governor pull it out and disasemble and clean real good.A peice of trash is stuck in there somewhere.Also,chang e the fluid and filter,and refill with dextron 3 atf alonf with libe gaurd additive,This additive is good for valve bodies and governors.If a valve in the valve boddy is stuck,this will unstick it.You can find this additive at napa auto parts.

get a 4x2 tranny, and replace the 4x4 tranny and 4x4 transfer case with it, you will also need to remove your front drive shaft, that operates your front FWD, and replace the drive shaft for the rear axel.....

Find a good Salvage yard and see about trading parts to convert to 4x2

try auto zone.com they have had most of what i have had to search for [email protected] good luck..DALE

if you have charge out put at the alt but none at the batt. then your problem is in the wiring

Look behind the motor, next to the firewall. There's a vacuum check valve that keeps the air gulp pump from pressurizing the crankcase. Mine was shot; had the same symtoms. Also, make sure that the EGR valve is closing at low idle.

You don't need an engine light to check the codes. First, do a KOEO (key on, engine off), but, let me tell you, when this happened to me (1986 Full size with 302 EFI, multiport injection) NOTHING showed up. No one, not Ford, not emission specialists, nada, knew the vacuum check valve existed.

By the way; are you getting motor oil in the air filter housing?

Hello, the best advice I can give for this is to mark your old vacuum lines off the careburator and match them with your new one. A good Chiltons or Haynes Auto Manual can help you in this endeavor as well. Being a mechanic doing upgrades to your vehicle does not always have the manual for the conversion in which you are doing so some good ole guess and tell may be the route to take. Just remember that you need vaccum to take and take out air into the careburator and this is a good start from any careburator upgrade. I have rebuilt and installed probaly 50 careburators and a manual for converting one careburator from one vehicle or motor can take longer than some just good time with your motor figuring out what needs to get done. Thank You

You could have  broken gear inside the trans.

check the fusible links in the wiring harness by the starter solenoid

Change plugs & wires, New battery , Install radiator. Crank it over if it starts and is smoking needs new vale guide seals and maybe new rings. But try to get it started first then go from there. If it wont turn over try to turn over by hand from front crank pully with socket and breaker bar to free up motor.

it could be the starter or the selinoid on the firewall also check out the condition of the drivebelt to make sure it is not slipping

drill it out , how big is the bit?