20 Most Recent 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab - Page 8 Questions & Answers

it is located at top of engine at the front hopefully this pic helps

i would change your idle air controle its 60$ and a great start

had a 98 ford explorer with same problem. had 2 o2 sensors in the exhaust change both, if one is bad the other is right behind it. problem went away and didnt have same problem again.

check antifreeze level make sure its full with antifreeze and not just water if full check heater core for leaks see if it is antifreeze on the passenger side floor

It's not uncommon fot it to take several fill ups to get all the air out of the cooling system and the heater is usually the main culprit. I always turn the heater on full blast when I refill a cooling system and run the engine long enough to make sure the coolant is circulating in the heater. This is your most likely culprit.Have you checked the coolant level in the overfow bucket? It should be at the full line on the side. If not, then top it up and replace the cap. Even if it is full replace the cap but leave it loose. Drive with the cap loose for a few days and the heater on full. Check the coolant level daily and top up as necessary. After a few days you should have continuous heat. Then you can tighten the overflow cap. Hope this helps.

had similar problem on a chevy S10. One of the lobes on the cam was worn thus not allowing the exhaust valve to open so when the intake valve opened the preassure from that cylinder escaped back through the intake manifold and out through air filter resulting in the spit back. Hope this helps.

You will have to prove out the wiring to make sure there are no shorts, opens, or poor connections. If there are no wiring problems, then the EEC may be at fault. The crank sensor produces an AC voltage signal that may be getting corrupted by the time it reaches the ignition module, due to bad wiring. Make sure to verify whether the ignition module is receiving a clean strong signal by using an oscilloscope or at least measure the signal with an AC voltmeter at the ICM connector while cranking the engine. The voltage will vary with speed, you are looking for a steady signal that doesn't drop out or become erratic. You can run new wires, and make sure they are not connected to possibly shorted sections of the old wiring, by cutting the old wires off at the connectors and connecting new wires to the cut ends. Or replace the connectors and wiring if you suspect that the connections are bad. Inspect carefully for damaged terminals that won't make a good tight connection with their mating pins when connected. Here is a basic diagram of the entire system, it is common to all the distributorless units even though this one shows a 6-pack coil.Zoom Image link HERE.First I sugest to check to see if the check engine light comes on key on engine off. Chekc the EEC Power relay in the fuse box switch with another relay (underhood fuse box, called PCM power relay). Check ground connectiosn.Zoom Image link HERE.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

yes try new plugs and wires. if it still happens change the coil to