20 Most Recent 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab - Page 4 Questions & Answers

If you take it to an OReilly auto parts or similar they will hook it up to a computer and tell you what the code is and what It means.

Have you done a valve check

I remember a problem with the Ranger Series involving the hydraulic assisted clutch. There was a special refill procedure for a few Year Models. If the hydraulics leaked during storage an air bubble could occur and they are next to impossible to get fresh fluid back to fill the void. And it would not fix the leak. I remember a video showing all the components fastened to a display board to train Mechanics on the extra effort needed to bleed this system. I would say to search the Web under a topic like "Ford Ranger hydraulic clutch bleeding" to find the article. Even if you replace the current clutch cylinder, it may be no less difficult to refill. Your mechanic may need the info you find.

check fuel pressure and change TPS (throttle position sensor)

Next time you have this issue check the fuel pressure. Port to check is on the top of the engine in the fuel injector fuel delivery rail/pipe

Generally speaking, the not ready issue means the truck has not been driven enough since the battery was disconnected or the codes were cleared to have a new history. The cycle drive needs to include about 50-100 miles of both city and highway driving with the engine at normal operating temp. The distance does not have to be done in one trip.

hey bro, i just had the same problem with my 98.it turned out to be the blend door down by the floor discharge was broken.go to heatertreater.com and watch their video. its about the only solution unless you want to pull the whole dash.they have the parts to fix it with.

relays are either under hood on driver side or in fuse panel under to left of steering wheel or could be on side of dash as you open drivers door

wire plugin on back of turnsignal switch not making a connecting

Check the On/Off switch on the dash, steering column, and the steering arm/lever is connected properly and that the lighting cable's are cable connectors are connected and not corroded. 1, To check the Earth: Connect a cable from the earth of the bulb to the chassis/body/ metal part of the car. 2, Using a Test lamp: Disconnect the cable that connects the power to the head light bulb, Connect one end of the test lamp to any one of the connectors at the end of the cable that plug's into the bulb. With the low beam on, only one of these wire's will the light switch turned on will light up the test lamp bulb. If none of the cable's light the test lamp bulb. the problem is in the High beam relay, and possibly the Low beam relay as well. One Head lamp relay: If one cable show a light in the test lamp, check the earth cable on that lamp. Two Head lamp relay: If two cable's show a light in the test lamp, check the earth cable on that lamp. Some of the car's electrical systems use the Steering column as an earth point. Check the switch. In many cases are what is called Earth return (this means that the positive power (+) is supplied by one wire, and the negative earth (-) is connected via another wire) this is to reduce the problems of the rust effecting the power flow. Get the wiring loom layout in the Cars book Sorry I can't be of more help

When the engine is warm, and running, feel both heater hoses. They should be equally hot if the water valve is open. If they are unequal, then it is a water control problem. If both hoses are hot, the ductwork is not routing the heat under the dash properly. If you have a temperature gauge in the dash, you would be getting heat if the engine shows normal. A thermostat may be needed if you have no water gauge and you do not know if the engine is hot enough.