20 Most Recent 1993 Ford Probe - Page 2 Questions & Answers

maybe a bad horn relay.

Section 18-01: Wiring and Circuit Protection 1996 Probe Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Relays The following illustrations show the locations of the various relays on the vehicle.

The Location of the Starter Relay, Main Relay, Circuit (Fuel Pump) Relay, Turn Signal Lamp Relay, Horn Relay, Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) Relay (Canada Only), A/C Relay, Headlamp Relay, and Fog Lamp Relay

Hi there Use the 'Google' search engine and type in support.alpine-usa.com/products. You will be able to download a pdf manual on your model.

you have low antifreeze which is caused by a leak some where pressure test coolant system and you will find leak and this will fix your problem

May not be the ABS, the ABS is meant to do the opposite, it may be that the Brake Caliper has gone bad, apparently is stays closed after releasing break pedal causing wheel to lock up.

tps sensor might b bad

Needs a distributor. Mine did the same thing. Everyone I talked to said the distributors in these cars are crappy and tend to go out in a moments notice.

battery might be to dead.

Is your car a V6 or a 4cyl engine? I have a ton of experiance with the Probe GT V6. So all the following info is for the V6 model ONLY!First Is your Check Engine Light on? If so Pull the Engine Codes. It is easy to the pull the engine trouble codes on this car. All you need is a paper clip or a piece of wire. Here is a link to a website that will tell you how to check the engine codes and will give you what each code means. http://www.probe-mx6.com/tech.html . After you pull the codes that will point you in the right direction. There are too many factors without knowing more information that could be part of your problem. If you post your Engine Trouble codes i can be of more assistance. But a it sounds like you may have a bad fuel pressure regulator(FPR). A quick way to check your FPR is to start your car and let it run at idle. Than pull the Vacuum hose off the FPR nipple. Now take your finger and rub it against the FPR nipple and see if you can smell fuel or see fuel coming out of the nipple. If there is a strong fuel smell on your finger than the FPR may be bad. Than let the car idle and with the vacuum hose still disconnected, watch the FPR nipple for 5 to 10 minutes and see if any fuel starts to come out the the nipple. If fuel starts to drip or shoot out of the FPR than it is definatly bad and you need to replace it.

distributor is placed wrong for timing
take cap off unbolt distributor lift enough to turn rotor place back dont bolt litely just enough to hold distributor down without it poping up on you
place cap back on
now you need manual start and kill switch up in engine compartment turn vehicle over with manual starter switch if runs rough turn distributor till sounds good now time it with radar gun tighten bolts the rest of the way

now for what i described this has a margin of error going 1 to 3 notches to time in either direction from front to back or back to front turning of the distributor rotar
i hope i had made some sense here
or counter clockwise the lifting distributor and turning rotor one tooth to engine crank this is timeing

The horn Button at the steering wheel is simply a switch. It grounds out when pushed causing the circuit to close, routing it though the actual  horn under the hood which is sitting there waiting to activate.

COULD BE STOPPED UP FUEL FILTER.SOUND LIKE YOU HAVE LEAN FUEL SYSTEM.WHEN YOU STEP ON ACCELERATOR ENGINE STALL OUT DUE TO LOW OR WEAK FUEL DEMAND.MORE YOU REP UP ENGINE IT NEEDS MORE FUEL.

where is gear handle try get in side and spray on cable with WD40.turn on do not start try to move slowly by hand.