20 Most Recent 1990 Ford F150 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

If you're still having the problem, replace the module on the side of the distributor. Mine drove me crazy until I replaced the module.. There is not much diagnostic information available on the old OBD I system.

Find the upper radiator hose, and follow it to the engine. it connects to the thermostat housing. drain some coolant and remove the two or three bolts to get to the thermostat (recommend replacing every time you have this open). Clean the engine mating surface and thermostat housing surface. then use the new gasket, or RTV and bolt back down.

crankshaft position sensor is bad. it uses this sensor to tell the computer when to make each plug fire. no signal no fire.

memory serves me the fuel gate valve between the two tanks goes bad ...need to find an old diagram but, testing the switch is done there as well... power to one side switched the gate valve to front..power to the (other pin) switched to the rear tank... find which pin lights with a test light when you call the front tank.. if it lights your valve is bad and not switching

There are a few ways and if I remember correctly, if you have a Module on the distributor you also have a wire sprout which must be disconnected to get base timing.That being said, those modules still had a timing mark on the crankshaft damper and a timing mark pointer. You want to have the crankshaft visibly marked and the pointer at the DEGREES recommended for the motor. You will see TDC on most dampers and then advance it maybe 6 degrees as marked.Assuming you are close to begin with, AFTER lining up the parts as recommended, mark the distributor #1 plug position on the cap to distributor housing so that the #1 plug terminal is known when the cap is temporarily removed, wires intact.Then see where the rotor is pointed and remove the distributor and clock the rotor to align with the mark you put on the distributor housing. If you have a gear drive, the gear will need to be moved slightly for the rotor to twist into place when the distributor is seated. With a timing light, check where the spark is occurring for #1.You may be close enough for the engine to start.Other ways involve removing a plug(#1) and turning the engine until compression pushes your finger away from the cylinder hole. Line the timing marks up per specs, do the same process for the distributor rotor and try it again.If this still does not produce the results you want, make sure the plug wires were not switched. Finally removing the valve cover to observe when intake and exhaust are both closed will help, but it is a lot off unnecessary work to be avoided.

check the wires from the gauge to the motor.. if not that then change the temperature-gauge-sender

You need to do all the basic tune-up things: plugs, wires, cap and rotor, fuel and air filter.

If the oil level is OK, then replace the Oil Pressure Sensor, if the engine still has good Oil pressure that should take care of it.

On the back of what?

Have the fuel pump checked it may be weak.

fuel injected motor. not adjustable. if idling high, replace throttle position sensor. fixes that problem 90 percent of the time.

i forgot my passwords poker id

Chek fuel filter first, and replace if it hasn't been changed in a while. Then if it still has problems starting, check ignition module. Make sure all grounds are tight and making good contact as well.

88-91