1989 Ford Thunderbird - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You need to run a fault code test of the EEC4 (AKA OBD1) engine control system, this can be related to the ignition control module or the distributor pickup, both are a problem in this year, I have replaced hundreds of them. Use Ford OEM parts if the problem is the two parts I mentioned. To do a fault code test follow the link below. EEC IV Self Test Ford Fuel Injection and EEC IV Electronic Engine Control...

35-40 psi. Have to remove the tank to replace. Did you replace the fuel filter and check that the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator is okay? don-ohio

I would go after the door lock first. Older fords have a switch on the door lock that disables the alarm. They tend to break and fall though. I have replaced them with a momentary on/ff switch.But the alarm would go off when opening the door. On some older ones(85,87)(no keypad) I could disconnect the security module and it did just fine.

Put a piece of cardboard under the car. Then look down at the cardboard from above the the area. You can see where the drops are in relation to the hose or water pump or other spot. I do that for locating oil leaks. Hope this helps.

This model T-bird has a brake light switch that commonly wears out...also, how it attaches is suspect to failure...the bracket and the switch are attached by an adjustable nut, and could just have slipped. I have had this problem before, and had to jimmy-rig mine with a bit of flexible wire to keep it in place.

remove one plug and placed it next to a grounded metal surface and spin the engine over and you should see a spark

lighter coils can be bought t any auto spares shops If it is the base unit they can also be got from an auto spares shop but you will have to fit it after you unscrew the nut holding it in place.

where is, where to buy, how to test ? just a hint.

sounds to me like the computer is acting up on you. i would have it checked

The dash lights should work in any position. If you mean the warning lights, that and the turn signals go thru the key switch, so that could be a problem with that switch.

some radios have fuses in the back of them so remove the radio and look there

Yes the steering wheel comes off.If you check YouTube you should find a video for a Ford product close to your model.

You need to remove the instrument cluster and replace the special high output back lighting display bulbs, there are 6 of them I think, about $3 each from the ford dealer

The high idle could be causing the noise - or it could have a vac leak. I would check the computer for trouble codes first.Could have a faulty O2 sensor or map sensor - depending on that possible vac leak.

sounds like flasher relay it is short and round usually in fuse box under dash also check fuses

sounds like you need to change your brakes, but thats what it sounds like.

Make sure you're getting a spark by pulling a spark plug, putting the wire back on it and grounding the plug to the engine block and crank it.
If you have a spark...I'd look into your gas pressures.

On a OBD I car the connector is under the hood on the drivers side near the strut tower. It will be in a plastic cap marked EEC-TEST and have two connectors one with a rectangular shape that has a sort of pointed side and 4-6 wires in it and then a single wire with a gray plastic end on it.

Hope this helps

Your ignition is bad, or your key might be worn out if you have more then one you might try that. Other wise you will have to replace the ignition switch.

There are 4 different transmissions that go in this car.

The following is the Automatic Overdrive Transmission:
Automatic Overdrive (AOD) Transmission 1983–89 VEHICLES

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Place a suitable drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
4. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
5. Remove the converter-to-flexplate attaching nuts. place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
6. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolts, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
7. Scribe a mark indexing the driveshaft to axle flange, disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
8. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor. Disconnect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.
9. Remove the rear mount-to-crossmember attaching bolts and the two crossmember-to-frame attaching bolts.
10. Remove the two engine rear support-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
11. Disconnect the TV linkage rod from the transmission TV lever. Disconnect the manual rod from the transmission manual lever at the transmission.
12. Remove the two bolts securing the bellcrank bracket to the converter housing. Fig. 11: Unfasten the two bellcrank bracket-to-converter housing bolts
    
    
13. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack to provide clearance to remove the crossmember. Remove the rear mount from the crossmember and remove the crossmember from the side supports.
14. Lower the transmission to gain access to the oil cooler lines.
15. Disconnect each oil line from the fittings on the transmission using Cooler Line Disconnect Tool T86P-77265-AH or equivalent.
16. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
17. Remove the bolt that secures the transmission fluid filler tube to the cylinder block. Lift the filler tube and the dipstick from the transmission.
18. Secure the transmission to the jack with the chain.
19. Remove the converter housing-to-cylinder block attaching bolts.
20. Carefully move the transmission and converter assembly away from the engine and, at the same time, lower the jack to clear the underside of the vehicle.
21. Remove the converter and mount the transmission in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B, or equivalent holding fixture. To install:
    
22. Tighten the converter drain plug to 8–28 ft. lbs. (11–38 Nm).
23. Position the converter on the transmission, making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear by rotating the converter.
24. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission to the jack with a chain.
25. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with the holes in the flexplate. WARNING
    Lubricate the pilot bushing with a suitable chassis grease.
    
26. Align the yellow balancing marks on converter and flexplate.
27. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flexplate and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flexplate. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
28. Install and tighten the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts to 40–50 ft. lbs. (55–68 Nm), making sure that the vacuum tube retaining clips are properly positioned.
29. Remove the safety chain from around the transmission.
30. Install a new O-ring on the lower end of the transmission filler tube. Insert the tube in the transmission case and secure the tube to the engine with the attaching bolts.
31. Connect the speedometer cable to the extension housing.
32. Connect the oil cooler lines to the right side of the transmission case. Tighten the lines to 24–31 Nm).
33. Position the crossmember on the side supports. Position the rear mount on the crossmember and install the attaching bolt and nut.
34. Secure the engine rear support to the extension housing and tighten the bolts to 35–40 ft. lbs. (47–54 Nm).
35. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
36. Secure the crossmember to the side supports with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 70–100 ft. lbs. (95–136 Nm).
37. Position the bellcrank to the converter housing and install the two attaching bolts.
38. Connect the TV linkage rod to the transmission TV lever. Connect the manual linkage rod to the manual lever at the transmission.
39. Secure the converter-to-flexplate attaching nuts and tighten them to 20–30 ft. lbs. (27–41 Nm).
40. Install the converter housing access cover and secure it with the attaching bolts.
41. Secure the starter motor in place with the attaching bolts. Connect the cable to the terminal on the starter. Connect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.
42. Align the scribe marks and connect the driveshaft to the rear axle.
43. Adjust the shift linkage as required.
44. Adjust the throttle linkage.
45. Carefully lower the vehicle, then connect the negative battery cable.
46. Fill the transmission to the correct level with Mercon® or equivalent fluid. Start the engine and shift the transmission to all ranges, then recheck the fluid level.