20 Most Recent 1989 Ford Crown Victoria - Page 8 Questions & Answers

cant help you with the radio that sound like a wiring problem and thoose are hard to diagnose over a computer but the oil problem... if the oil is comming from the back of the engine were the trans meets then the rear main seal is leaking. You can do one of two things. Yo u can pull the trans and replace the seal on the engine or you can go to a parts store and get a bottle of "LUCAS" oil stop leak it will seal it up for you. and for the next 3 oil changes make sure you put a bottle in the oil. this will not harm the engine or any other componants in the car. i recomend "LUCAS" brand because its the only stop leak i've ever seen work so fast and i've never had anyh comebacks at my shop for this problem

You probably have a linkage rod disconnected. Don't stress out! Remove clips with flat screwdriver, remove other hold down hardware & expose the area in question. Check for repairs needed. You may have to disconnect wiring connections to get panel out of the road. Good luck!

a plenum is the top part of the intake manifold, modern fuel injected cars and trucks (gas engiones) have a upper and lower intake manifold, the upper section is called the plenum.

Have you checked your connection to the battery? Sometimes a bad connection can drain the battery and keep the alternator from returning enough charge to the battery.

5 quarts including the oil filter..

The dash has to be removed to gain access to the heater box, a factory repair manual is a 100% must have for this job. The heater box then comes out and is split open to replace the core.
this is not a job for anyone except a experienced mechanic, about 10 hour job, a factory service manual is a must, u can buy a factory manual here.
follow link
http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/product.cfm?p=5466&cs=products%2Ecfm%3Fvt%3D1008%26mk%3D6317%26yr%3D1988

check wireing for ground out or solonoid wired wrong. berrydalewolf

Check tranmission fluid level is correct.

Yes there is a computer, you might want to have your ignition moduel checked out to see if it is ant good if not replace it , ifit is okay, have the computer checked out.

Mirror units are not very expensive and canbe found online. I change the passenger side one earlier this year after the morror fell out. It does require removing part of the interior trim and it is help on by 3 screws depending on your model. if it is a power unit the connector is fairly easy to to get apart, use a small straight blade screw driver to lift the latch being carful not to break off the tab otherwise you will have to wrsapit with tape to ensure that it does does not come apart from normal driving and rough roads.

When you accelerate, it open more throttle valve and at the same time more fuel is supposed to spray in to meet the demand, but it didn't that why the engine is hesitate. The problem is that you don't have a correct air: gas ratio of 14.6 :1 Need to check 1- Fuel pomp rate of delivery to determine pump is weak for a change. 2- Fuel accumulator ( regulator) if it still maintains correct pressure for Fuel distributor 3- After the#1 2nd #2 fixed and the problem is still existed, then your Fuel distributor need to be taken care of.

hi, if when you move the gear stick into 3rd gear position if the stick stays where 3rd gear should then the problem is going to be in the box itself.

If you can get 1st gear with no problems and the car drives ok in 1st then shift to 2nd if this also drives ok then when you put it into 3rd if the gear stick is in 3rd gear position and it goes into that position as it normally does then the problem is going to be with the teeth on the spline that is the 3rd gear. You will need to remove the gear box no matter what you decide to do.

Now you have 2 options the first and easiest would be to get the gearbox replaced with a second hand one or reconditioned box. Buying new would be to expensive and a second hand or recon box will do you just fine.

The second option and more time consuming would be to remove the box strip the box down and replace the parts that need replacing this is only a good idea if: a, you have stripped a box before and put one back together, b, if you can get hold of the exact part you need this can be difficult as not many places sell the spares to put inside the box.

Now as for the cost if a garage was doing the work then replacing the whole box would be cheaper as their is less labour involved in removing and replacing a complete box.

If a garage was removing the box then strip it down to replace parts then this would work out more expensive on labour but cheaper on the cost of parts.

Now what i would do would be to locate a second hand box from either breakers yard or off somewhere like ebay then you get the box yourself and get garage to fit or do it yourself if you can manage this sort of work.
Replacing the box with second hand one or recon one would be cheaper than paying someone to strip your box down replace the parts then refit on the car, the problem as your box has started to fail you could replace the part then find out something else goes wrong a month later. This is where buying a recon box would be a better option as you would get some warranty.

Now if you car drives ok in 1st and 2nd gear then you know the clutch is fine and the gear selector rods are fine then the problem can only be with the drive inside the gearbox you will probably find that the cogs on the end of the drive for third has either stripped the teeth off so its not engaging the drive or the weld holding the cog on could have split this also not engaging the drive for that gear.

Im sorry their is no easy fix for this but it is a case of removing the box and replacing its up to you what you want to do but i would replace the box with either good second hand one or trade yours for a recon they usually knock some money off if you trade in your box with them.
You would need to ring around a few garages to see if they can get you a recon box.

Let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

replace the TFI ignition module and the distributopr ignition stator inside the distributor, this will cure the problem.

Check the fuses, if they are blown, make sure they are the right size. If not, do not use bigger fuses than the circuit is supposed to have. If they are too small, use the correct size. If they are, do you have any extra equipment using the same circuit? Like a stereo or GPS or an alarm system? Move them to a different circuit. Check the relays to see if they are defective. Check all the bulbs to make sure they are the right ones too. Make sure they are in the right way. Check grounding wires, make sure they have good connections.

You are most probably correct, fan motor resistor is usually found at the top center of firewall in engine compartment.

Under the dash on the passenger side, pull it off after draining the radiator fluid from hoses that connect to it from the motor. Do it cold too

34-45 psi. for EFI. No seperate pressures between idle and WOT.