1989 Ford Bronco - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

have you checked for ignition fire to the plugs after it dies? chances are the ignition control module is getting hot and shutting off the signal to the ignition coil.

The most common problem?!?!?! FORD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Next time you have occasion to pull the instrument cluster. I suggest you remove that pesky bulb and be done with it! That "anti -lock" system was a joke anyway. Who puts "anti-lock" on the REAR?????????? They really didn't think this through did they! Oh and just one more little pet peeve of mine. ALL FULL SIZE BRONCOS ARE 4X4!!!!!!!!!!!!! AND ALL FULL SIZE TOPS COME OFF TOO!!!!!!!

It may be running a little lean when warm. Try adding an injector cleaner to clean the injectors. Also check for a vacuum leak from a bad hose.

Clean the throttle body. Check the throttle air bypass valve solenoid. Have you tried checking applicable trouble codes, if there are any?

Those Bronco's had funky Brass "guides" if you will. They wear out and you get "Loose" steering wheel. The only way to remedy is to replace them. Had the exact same thing with my 1996. I replaced those brass guides that hold the wheel in place and all was well again.

Ford Bronco 1980 1995 Workshop Service repair manual Download Get wiring diagram here

It sounds like you have mixed your PRIMARY POWER to your starter solenoid (Specifically "S" and "B" leads). My best suggestion would be to either get a REAL shop manual for your ignition switch... or use the FREE wiring diagrams from BBB Industries... Registration is required at BBB Industries Premium Alternators Starters Power Steering Products THIS simple REVERSAL would allow the starter to crank... but releasing the key would cause it to die... "B" is on full time battery (Coming out of the solenoid) "S" only has battery on it when the IGNITION KEY is in the "START" position Looking at the DRAWINGS Savvy...? Carnac the Magnificent

You might want to research Ford 4x4 Clubs or Bronco Clubs and things like Off-roading publications. Ford use to have performance displays at some Dealerships. There are some specialty shops which can shorten rear axles.and narrow rear ends. One thing to remember is that both the front and rear differentials need matching gear ratios. So whatever you do, think of pairs.

It sounds like the timing is too far advanced or a vacume leak. Spray some carb cleaner around the vacume lines and see if the idle changes.

I saw what you replaced, didn't see any testing? Any applicable trouble codes? Did you use a gage and check proper fuel pressure? My info on that engine size, said 35--45 psi. If the fuel pressure is too high, check the return line. As far as the fuel pressure regulator, do you have vacuum?

First guess is VACUUM leak....second guess is Ignition module fastened to the bottom of the distributor,about 3-4 inches long. This thing can cause crazy things as it is going out. Make sure to use the conductive grease on the backing plate when you swap it out. This keeps it from overheating at the distributor base. don-ohio

13726548 #1 cyl is front pass side and count to back 1234 are on pass side.5678 are on driver side.# 5 being front

Only place you'll find this diagram is in the Shop Manual, or by searching the Internet. The vacuum routing under the dashboard is fairly straightforward, though, and you should be able to trace the existing lines (if you're looking for a leak).

You may want to check your main ground wire from the block to the frame. If your engine is not ground it will cause you issues.

Wheel locks are bad.

You really should have said what times you had problems.. Just saying at times does not help. If the engine is hot and is hard to start you should look at the heat shield between the exhaust and the starter. a hot starter = hard to start. ALSO if your timing is advanced it will cause it to be hard to start. also if your battery is weak.

You could scribe marks from your old balancer once it is off the engine. But I would not worry about it anyway because the balancer is keyed and cant be put on wrong.

open the hood and top off the brake fluid. Have an assistant help you. pump the brake pedal 3 times slowly and on the 3rd time hold to the floor. start with the rear pass side brake and loosen the bleed valve nut I think a 10mm will fit. just turn it slightly, watch your face sometimes it sprays out fast. the helper will feel less pressure and foot will go to the floor. Tell them not to lift up till you close the bleed valve. (or you will draw more air into the line) I like to communicate with my helper by having them yell down when they have pumped 3 times and are holding down the pedal. then I open the valve and watch the spray then I close the valve and yell go. then they do it again. watch the spray till a good flow of clean fluid flows and no spurting bubbles. then top off the fluid again and move to the other rear brake. do the same then top off go to the passenger front then the driver side then top off again. done.

Start with the cheapest part. The fuel filter. Even putting it in gear consumes more gas. A clogged filter will restrict the flow. Check for grounds. you should have a ground from the battery to the engine. From the battery to the body. and one from the engine to the body. This is just a start mind you. There are plenty of other things that could be wrong.

Most vehicles with automatic transmissions cool the transmission fluid by running it through a cooler which is actually in the radiator, If there is a leak in this part, known as an intercooler you will get trans fluid in your radiator and water in your transmission. The one to worry about is the latter. Your transmission is made up of clutches and bands which are basically resin impregnated paper glued to a steel band or clutch plate. The glue that is used is water soluble. Meaning the water will cause your transmission clutches and bands to disintegrate. The water will also cause other problems like rusting valves in the valve body. The easy fix is to buy a external cooler which either attaches to the outside of the radiator or car frame and re route the cooler lines through it bypassing the intercooler. Also plug or cap off the fittings to said intercooler or you will have a radiator leak. Flush out both the cooling system and the transmission with clean fluids to remove contamination. If you do this quick enough you may be OK.