Do you mean its detached from the cable? If so, see if you can reach the attachment point for the cable and pull in direction of the cable to release.
If this is helpful a thumbs up or clicking helpful would be greatly appreciated. God Bless Y
Sounds like your hood release locking mechanism is gummed up..it is the part on the car that the hood locking bar fits into..it also is attached to the hood release..have someone operated the hood release while you use a carb lineage spay on the hood release..keep doing it until the mechanism works smoothly..once that is done spray some WD40 on it..then from then add it to your service reminder to oil it up....good luck..
Check if all of the windows (except the drivers window) work from the main switch, and from the window switches on each door. If the windows all work from the doors switches, you have a bad master (main) panel controlling the drivers door window. If the windows don't work from any switch, check for a fuse issue, or a pinched wire in the tube from the door hinge area to the door.
It is not necessary to remove the instrument panel to change the heater core. Remove the center panel. You will be able to see several 8 mm 5/16th head screws.that holds the lower housing together. These screws are hard to get to but I have done it several times so I am sure you can do it too. When replacing the lower cover be sure that you align the tongue and groove to insure there is no condensation leak when using the AC.
If all other dash lights work, perhaps these are fed by a separate wire, which is loose at some point. It may require some disassembly of under dash panels to be able to trace this wire down. However if you mean the clock inside the radio, one wire feeds both the light and clock circuit. If you have an aftermarket radio installed, they usually have two power wires, one which is only hot when the ignition switch is on. Often installers use a connector which crimps the wires and these are not the best way to do this. If you can find the faulty connection, clean the wires and solder them together if possible.
I suspect that the throttle plate is stuck and the motor gear that drives it is trying to move it closed. Remove the throttle body and clean out the deposits.
It should blink fast any time the key is removed or in the off position. When you turn the key to on it will be on steady for a few seconds to show that the light works. Once you start the vehicle the light should not be on or flashing.
You should hear the fuel pump run momentarily when the key is in the Run position. Ensure the engine has a good spark by removing one of spark plug boots. Stick a phillips screwdriver in the boot, and hold the handle of the screwdriver, and allow the shaft near ground. (motor works best) Have someone crank the engine and look for a good blue spark arch from the screwdriver and engine. If your getting good spark, then check the fuel pressure on the fuel injection rail.
I had a weird prob like that once and ended up replacing both POS and NEG cables from Battery. I guess somewhere inside the POS there was an unseen weak/open area. Ran great after and Sold it after another 60k.....hey you don,t live near.... ah juz skiddin' Good Luck my Ford Friend ~~~SC
