20 Most Recent 1987 Ford F 250 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Use a test light and check to see if there is battery voltage present at the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position if no battery voltage is present at the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position then there is a power supply or wiring problem to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then with the test light on the "Neg" (-) or negative side of the ignition coil crank the engine over. The test light should flash or pulse indicating that there is a dwell signal to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil and there is a dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, and there is still no spark from the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, and there is no dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, then the Ignition module, or the pick-up coil/stator would be the most likely cause of the problem.

Check to see if that ignition system actually used an ignition module on the side of the distributor, and if the distributor does have an ignition module mounted on the side of it, then it is most likely faulty and those modules were prone to failure from excessive engine heat. Also, remove the distributor cap and inspect the connector from the pick-up coil/stator where the ignition module connects to it, and if the connector is dark or burnt looking then also replace the pick-up coil/stator or the entire distributor. You might need a Ford ignition module wrench to remove the ignition module from the side of the distributor and most auto part stores will have one for only a few dollars.

Here are some images to assist you and notice the white connector on the ignition pick-up coil/stator and when that connector turns dark or burnt looking then it is faulty

well the fuel pump is located on the fuel tank,, you have to remove the back seat to get to it,, under the back seat is a panel,, unbolt it then unbolt the pump from the tank..

the fuse is under the hood in the fuse box,, its a black box with a clip on top.. under the cover is a diagram to show which fuse is which

You need a air inlet filter for your gas tanks, your ending up with a vacuum lock in the tanks. To be sure take the gas caps off and see it it runs OK.

First thing to try is to boost the truck,or put another "known to be good" battery in it.If it still just clicks then try putting booster cables from the post on the starter solenoid[follow the positive cable to it]to the other large post on the solenoid[in park or in neutral with the park brake set]and see if it turns over,if so replace the solenoid or repair the starter ground,if no go,replace the starter.Odds are it's the battery or the ground to the engine block.

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Check the choke, with cold engine open throttle all the way and let go, butterfly on top should be open about1/4", also I would check your accelerater pump diaphragm sit in the carb. look in carb. pump throttle and see if you see gas spray, if you do pump diaphragm is good, if none bad diaphragm

when u are going up a hill this puts a load on the ignition system, this causes any marginal spark plug wires to short to the engine and cause a missfire, this is most likely what is wrong with the truck

Distributor cap

1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.

under the truck there is a starter on passenger side, use a 1/2 inch wrench and unbolt the main lead , leading to the battery. FIRST UNHOOK THE POSITIVE BATTERY LEAD ON BATTERY, UNDER HOOD. if not sparks will fly. If need remove starter there are 2 more 1/2 inch bolts holding the starter on the transmission.

it is grounded threw the bolts that hold it in place. I believe you are talking about he diesel engine an the biggest issue this rig had was the fuel pump on the side of the block not the high fuel pressure pump you should pull the lower fuel pump off and check that it has vacuum and that it holds vacuum when you push the plunger down it should hold vacuum for a couple of minutes if not it has a bad check valve. the symptoms would be dieing out low or no power I know you did not ask for this information but you will need it to help solve the problem. when the fuel shutoff kicks in it shuts the fuel off when is off it is cut off. hope this helps.

how about the relay? most small motors in a car have a relay. and i don't think it's the fuse because your motor is working

email me at [email protected] and I wil send you all the wiring diagrams I have.

I had an 86 F150 with dual tanks, it had a similar problem. The problem ended up being the switcher valve (switches from one fuel tank to the other). Mine was electrically controlled and would switch from rear tank to front tank, but (front tank also had a leak) would not switch back to rear tank. I found out that my switcher valve (after I tried rebuilding the switcher valve myself, and determined that it was not repairable and needed replacement) was defective. They are also not cheap-about 10 years ago it was about $150! Don't know if yours is the same model, but I found the easiest thing for me to do then was remove the front tank, since it leaked (metal mounting straps worn through in spot where insulation came out sideways), and remove the switcher valve. I always left my tank switch set to REAR (dont know if anything would have happened if I had moved it to FRONT anyway, with valve and tank gone) and it always worked fine from then on out.

What you need to do is probably a 2 man job: Have someone inside the cab have ignition on and work the switch from one tank to the other, while you are underneath the truck at the switcher valve. Your job would be to determine if the valve actually works both ways, or just one way, or not at all.

Also there are fuel filters in several places: there is one in the switcher valve, further up along the frame toward the engine, and should be one somewhere on the engine, too. Also each tank should have an in tank pump. Several places to check, it's a big job, its messy, gasoline is toxic, not to mention explosive. Wish I had better news for you.

Hope I've been helpful.

Are you relying on the trucks temp gauge or did you check coolant in the rad. with a thermometer? Do you have pure water in it or anti freeze.

have your idle valve check it could be stuck or some vacuum leaks on your intake manifold as more air intake than what is necessary at idle state

the end of the disk is scratching with the calliper.