20 Most Recent 2004 Ford Explorer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

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2002 2010 Ford Explorer Temp Blend Actuator Removal

rpm limiter sensor or the vehicle is in limp mode have the fault codes read to find any faulty sensor , then use a scan tool to reset the ECM

The check engine light will represent fault codes that the computer is sensing. Have a mechanic, or go to your local auto parts superstore and have them scan for the fault codes. This will at least give you an idea about some of your problems.

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Most likely cause is a bad automatic belt tensioner. See this post on how to check a belt tensioner http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/diagnose-a-belt-tensioner/ Then see this post on how to diagnose belt noise http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/diagnose-belt-noise/

You need to put a scanner on the truck and see if any codes are set and if so of course repair them and then clear the codes in the computer with the scanner. I would check the idle air control and the throttle position sensor. I would also check the alternator by starting the truck and then taking off the positive battery cable and the truck should continue to run. If not the alternator that was put on is bad.

it is the blend door, driver side by gas pedal, very hard to get to, the door has a rotery gear that when the teeth break off, thats when you get the clicking sound

The battery light on, is an indication of alternator failure. If your battery is more than 3 years old it needs replacement . A bad battery can damage a new alternator (full field condition). The age of your truck warrants inspection of the charging system. It requires at Least 20 amps output, from the alternator to run the engine.

2004 Ford Explorer: the wrench light came on - which according..limp

Customer Question

My husband wash the engine of our 2004 Ford Explorer. About 2 hours later the wrench light came on - which according to the manual it has something to do with the Electronic throttle control and now I guess it is running in default "limp-home" operation?? Sounds serious. What does this mean since there is no other explanation in the manual. Hello and welcome to Just Answer!this vehicle uses an electric throttle control system and has no throttle cable or mechanical link between the accelerator pedal and the throttle body on the engine. This is commonly known as "throttle by wire". When the wrench light comes on, it signifies that there is a problem with the electronic throttle control system. The system consists of accelerator pedal position sensors, or sensor on the throttle pedal (there are more than one as back ups incase one fails), throttle position sensors out on the throttle body itself and there are more than one of these too and a throttle motor that actually opens and closes the throttle plate. If the system detects a fault in any of the sensors or the motor itself, it will turn on the wrench light and go into "limp mode". In limp mode, depending on what the computer thinks is wrong, it will either limit the throttle to about 35% or it will command idle and won't let the engine accelerate at all. It does this because when a sensor fails, the system's ability to control the throttle is compromised and as a safety meausre to keep the engine from accelerating when not commanded to do so, the throttle is limited. this problem is likely due to water intrusion into a sensor or an electrical connector. I never recommend using a water hose to clean an engine as water can infiltrate connectors and sensors and cause problems.This is not an easily diagnosed problem and if it doesn't go away when the water dries, will have to be taken to a diagnostic shop to be trouble shot and repaired.

http://www.engine-codes.com/p2106.html What are these c603 and c604 ????? No such codeds !

take it to an accredited service shop that has experience on your make of engine and have a proper diagnosis done and quote it is possible that there is a spinning main bearing and the test is a oil pressure test using a mechanical gauge some times it spins , low oil pressure -knocking other times it stops and the oil pressure goes back up , knocking stops should I be correct , normally it can be repaired in car by removing the sump and replacing that bearing shell, of the shaft is not damaged i would steer away from a new engine or suggestions of a blown engine but it could be serious

Please ? What amp fuse ? 15 amp ? My diagram shows as F1.37 A/C clutch relay , transmission solenoid body assembly