20 Most Recent 2004 Ford Expedition - Page 2 Questions & Answers

The blinking O/D light is telling you the transmission has a trouble code...If vehicle can be driven stop by Advanced Auto, or any auto parts store and have them read the code/codes...When you have code send it to me... I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

I think you should go for manual first after that it would be easy for you to solve your problem. I had visited this site past 2 months before for my vehicle and find it quite helpful may be you will also get something useful here Ford Expedition 2003 2006 WorkSHOP Service repair manual Download

Check all of the connections for oxidation and corrosion and clean them with 4/0thats 0000 steel wool and pb blaster and alcohol do not use a wire brush it ripps the battery post and terminals to shreds and causes a loose connection

check the wiring to the level sensors on the axle first then for a air leak at the valve block or pipework to that side

run the fault codes 2 possible problems 1 low fuel pressure --pump or tank not venting properly 2--- failed cat converter blocking the exhaust at high rpm

The idle is controlled by what is called IAC (idle air control motor). This motor has a little cone shape plunger and it moves onto and off of a seat by doing this it controls the idle by controlling a vacuum leak. When close no vacuum and low idle, when open it causes a vacuum leak and the idle goes up. I’m going to have you something easy to help me figure out what’s causing the problem. I need you to remove the hose to the throttle body to expose the plate. This plate controls the air going into the engine off idle. If your hand I want you to push open the plate and run your finger around we’re the plate seats if it is black I want you to put carb cleaner, brake cleaner intake cleaner or something like that on a rag and clean the whole area all the way around and while you are doing this look for a slot or hole that will be in front of the plate that’s the side closes to you. That is going to be were the idle air control motor gets it air from. What I want you to do is spray the cleaner in that opening while the truck is running a little at a time because you don’t want to flood the engine and you don’t want it to idle to high this will help to clean the carbon off the plunger and the seat of the IAC ok. One thing to think about is that if the check engine light is not on now this cause it to come on. By removing the hose off the throttle body it will effect other sensors try to leave them plugged in because it takes two faults to trigger the light. That means if you start your truck one time and clean the IAC. As long as you put it back together before you start it again the light will stay off. But if you unplug a sensor and turn the key on this will cause a hard fault meaning the ECM (Engine Control Module) see a missing sensor. But if you do cause the light come on it will reset itself after the fault disappears or you can go to autozone and get them to clear the codes speaking of witch you should have them check for any codes first. Just tell them that you got some intake cleaner from them and the throttle baby service you did cause your check engine light to come on. They should clear it. Let me know how it runs after you finish there’s a good chance it may fix your problem if not it will help us to narrow down the problem. I will look the next few days for a reply. Good luck If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/edward_020b3320326d263d

ok............when you change plugs the cmptr needs to relearn firing order. it takes 3-5 times/restarts before it relearns. I went through the exact same thing with my expedition. a day or two later she purred like a kitten. secondly if you are having acceleration problems you may be looking at a bad catalytic converter. lastly......check your air filter, take it out and see how it runs without filter. that was also an issue I had when it was rough running. good luck

4.6 there is a number etched on the end of the left valve cover (passenger side),

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I'd use a couple of resistors representing full and empty. Take connector loose from fuel level sending unit at gas tank, two wires, use resistor between the proper two wires, turn key just to on, you shouldn't have to start it. If gage reacts properly to both resistors, I believe the problem is the sending unit in the gas tank. If it still doesn't function properly, have to check wiring circuits and instrument cluster. The resistor ohms, 16 ohm--and 158 ohms. These are just generic specs. Some ford instrument clusters can do a self test. The only problem I have is, I don't which years this applies. With the engine off, depress and hold the odometer reset button. Turn the key to the run position and hold until the gages sweep, within 5--8 seconds. Depress the reset button once to advance to each stage of the self test. Turn the ignition to the off position to exit self test. This test is w/o outside input, so if all gages sweep except the fuel gage, I suspect the instrument cluster has a problem. I'm not sure if your instrument cluster has the self test ability?

Won't start how ? Turning the key to start an nothing happens or the engine spins over but start an run . ? The starting system on this vehicle is computer controlled . 008 Complex Circuit Analysis If the engine does spin when key is turned to start but does not start an run ! Spark , fuel pressure an flow , compression . No Start Diagnostic Basics EricTheCarGuy

How did you test battery and charging system? Your charging system is computer controlled. Check for applicable trouble codes. To check codes yourself, at the least you need an obd2 code reader that will check manufacturer specific codes as well as po codes. Take wire connector loose from generator . The two wires on the left should show battery voltage, do they? What is the voltage spec? This is with key off and no charger hooked up. The two wires on the right are to and from the computer, To check those, at least, you need a digital multimeter that has a duty cycle or frequency setting, with engine running, should activity on both wires. You have a battery temp sensor that could cause problems.

No don't think that is the noise.

Yes the noise can be gear "jump" over, the teeth don't break since they are nylon in most cases. This is most often caused by a sticking/warped air temperature control blend door.