20 Most Recent 1999 Ford Taurus - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Can't "safely" explain the whole process here...
Go to your public library (you have a card, right?).
The "Reference Section" has several car repair manuals (Motor's, Chilton's, etc.).
Find your book and photo copy the pages you need using the Library public copy machines (15 ~ 25 cents per page).
The books are full of pictures and numbered step-by-step instructions. They even give the part number for any special tools. You will need one special tool... a ball joint yoke chisel (another expert will actually know the real name of the tool - $8 AutoZone).

Ive never seen a car start up just fine after leaving the key on all night. I would try jumping it. If the voltage is too low it wont start.

Here is a short video of the process;

test the battery when cold as it could have a problem only when very cold, what condition is the plugs in and the ignition system which can cause a problem.

It's usually in the fuse console under or on the side of the dash board, usually on drivers side. If you remove the fuse panel cover the usually have the fuse location printed on the cover and if you have the owners manual they usually also print the fuse location in there too.

This depends on the engine size 3.0= 6 or 3.4= 8 cylinders you can go to auto zone for 6 cylinder it's around $40-45.00 for the 8cylinder it's about $50.00 + $43.00>for a core that you get back when you bring in the old one if you can bring your old pump with you when you go to buy the new one you and the parts guy will be sure that the new one matches the old one and you won't need the core charge money so $40--50 + fluid +tax make sure when you put in the fluid to bleed the air out by letting the engine run and turn the steering wheel back and forth about HALF A TURN EACH WAY FROM THE STRAIGHT POSITION WITH THE WHEELS OFF THE GROUND THE FRONT JACKED UP DO NOT TURN THE STEERING WHEEL MORE THAN THAT BECAUSE YOU WILL BLOW OUT THE NEW SEALS IN THE PUMP BECAUSE OF EXCESS AIR LET THE ENGINE RUN FOR ABOUT 10MIN.DOING THE PROCEEDURE AND CHECK THE FLUID TO SEE IF IT IS STILL FOAMY LOOKING IF IT IS LET IT RUN MORE AND THEN SETTLE FOR 10MIN. CHECK THE FLUID AGAIN AND JUST LET IT SIT TILL YOU DON'T SEE ANY FOAM THEN YOU'LL BE SAFE TO DRIVE THE CAR AND THE PUMP WILL HAVE ALL THE AIR PURGED OUT SO YOU WON'T BLOW OUT THE SEALS MAKE SURE THAT THE WHEELS ARE OFF THE GROUND DURING THE PURGE PROCEEDURE IT WILL BE EASIER TO TURN THE WHEEL AND LESS PRESSURE ON THE PUMP FOR THE BEGINNING OF THE PURGE HAVE FUN AND GOOD LUCK STEPHEN

You may have to repair the radio directly. See the following YT video to remove and check system. How to remove factory ford radio

Have you had any work done on the dash/ignition areas? Is it an aftermarket radio? Most likely there is a short or loose wire. First, disconnect the battery. Make sure fuses are in right spot and have right fuse (easy to google diagram) not just inside car but also in battery junction box with relays and fuses under hood (the larger box), there is a 20amp for audio there, the ones inside are numbered on the cover and I believe in the owner's manual, next can push in tiny holes on front of radio to pop out radio and check wiring. Next, can also check the wire going to the antenna, it's behind the panel in the trunk, takes a little struggle to remove/replace but it can be done, the bottom pulls off, the top screws in depending on if you are replace part or whole. Good luck:)

Replace the brake hose. An internal tear in the hose can allow fluid to flow into the caliper, but collapse inside not allowing the pressure to release.

Scan for trouble codes at local auto parts store. Possible Idle Air Control motor or throttle position sensor, or a big vacuum leak. Idle Air Control Valve Replacement If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_2496c4f07ad24453

check your alternator

I believe it's next to the battery for this year, like the relay box in front of engine only smaller and on side. The different years have different diagrams for what is located in it and what it controls which you will need to google for your car's engine type and accessories, you will know when you find one where relays are placed the same by look. If something is not working correctly, you also have the fuses and relays in the junction box and the fuse box under dash. Some wiring has inline fuses but have never had to change any of those, usually not the issue. Best of luck

Did you have red antifreeze prior to the flushing? Ford engines are generally aluminium and should be using blue antifreeze which is suitable for aluminium engine blocks! I think the antifreeze is reacting to the aluminium.....re flush and use blue!

lot of work in replacing the instrument cluster panel lamps. you need special tool to remove the radio because some of the panel screws are in there. you will need to disconnect gear indicator and electrical harnesses from instrument cluster. you will also need to remove several panels as well. I have lots of experience doing this and it took me two hours. consider finding someone that does automotive work at their house. word of mouth is the best networking way.

Check your catalytic converter! It may be clogged!!!

A lot of the time when that happens it is crank sensor it starts to get hot and stuffs up how I check and it work sometimes is poor cold water all around the sensor area after it stops and if she starts up after you cooled it down you found the problem then just replace it

Replace it as a unit. Strut, spring, strut mount all in one. It's called a quick strut. Raise car by the body not the wheel. Remove brake line (1 bolt) from strut lower. Remove 2 large bolts holding lower strut end. In the trunk 3 smaller bolts hold the strut mount (upper end) in place. DO NOT remove the single large nut at the top of the strut assembly. Wiggle the strut assembly out. Slide the new strut assembly in bolt it back in. Put wheel back on. Done.

if it is the front seal, you did not indicate whether manual or automatic, but the seal is generally 15-20 bucks, its the labour time that costs the most, my suggestion is if its manual, possibly think of doing the clutch at the same time, or if its automatic, having a tourque converter service as well

the immobiliser hasn't been disengaged by the key.Check fob battery in the key.

Unfortunately their are several possibilities when it comes to gas problems. If it's doing better now then maybe you can rule some out but for sure I would suggest changing the gas filter. Some pull the fuel relay switch while car is running then let it die on it's own to use up some of the fuel in the line, disconnect the battery, then pop the clips on the fuel filters lines with a screwdriver, be careful when you pull the hoses as some gas may still come out, then swap the filter. Could also be the fuel pump, one indication of this would be if you've had some rough starts, not hearing the pump prime, or had to give gas when idling. It is actually not the worst job to replace the fuel pump, some offer lifetime warranties for around $142 if you can do your own labor but suggest two people to help get tank out then back in right place, several hoses and some electrical to disconnect, need extra jacks if doing at home, line straps back up correctly and have patience when adjusting in place, also, don't pinch your electric near fuel filter if replacing pump, go ahead and plug it back in before setting the tank back in. Other possibilities are vacuum line problems, everybody says the pcv elbow first but I disagree, that depends on the model, for tauruses, there is a smaller one at back of engine that tends to melt or brittle in spots and break, rectangular sits on one or two lines at bottom and pushes in sideways, not so easy to find replacement because many car parts places don't carry in store, can snag at junkyard. If it is starting to break but not all the way through, will notice problem more in low speeds than on highway. MAF sensor may needed cleaned, vaccuum line coming off MAF sensor going in to engine could be loose, fyi, it pushes in at both ends, throttle not usually an issue, water leaking on O2 sensors could irritate them, O2 sensors don't usually go bad as often as they code and can be cleaned by soaking in gas, EGR valve could be clogged, would try this last as is difficult to remove and don't want to bust pipe getting loose. Also, if misfiring, may need new coil pack or may simply need to check and clean your spark plugs. There is also electrical at the funnel but not typical. Good luck, hope you get it narrowed down.