20 Most Recent 1999 Ford Explorer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

check nozzle if it clog and if ok check washer fluid pump.

That error code comes back to a rear axle speed sensor, here is a great video to show you where and how to change it.

when you push on the horn pad do you hear a click, if so the wiring up the steering colume and out to the horn relay is good. there by leaving the wiring from there to the horn itself. use a test light at the horn and check for power on the wire. if you have power then the horn itself is bad.

bad heater resistor

try looking under the vehical the shifting linkage is under there about the middle. u might have either ran over something cotter pins jar loose in both areas it could be many things but googling it will get you started trying to find out , just don't go taking things apart unles you know how it operates

I doubt it is the switch. Hit the bottom of the tank about where the pump sets. A rubber mallet works great. 3 or 4 good blows. I bet your truck starts. Replace the pump.

Get the code checked if the check engine light is on, sounds like speed control sensor at transmission.

o.k. first of all did you check the connector plug that (a) goes to the electrical part for the motor itself and trace it back to a junction connector those can be oxidized/corroded and the proper current is not getting through the wires (b) the antenna cable that's for the radio can have the same problem sometimes it is the ground to complete the circuit (c) if it has a separate up/down switch to operate this could be having the same problem at the connector and the contacts inside the switch if you can take it apart it might have dried up lithium grease(DO NOT USE THIS JUNK FOR ANY ELECTRICAL AT ALL SEE BELOW FOR IMPORTANT INFORMATION TO HELP YOUR TRUCK AND SAVE YOU $$$$$) or burnt contacts on the switch levers inside the housing go to an electronics supply house not radio shack they are limited to spray cleaners this is needed but you need carbon conductive grease MG CHEMICAL IS ONE BRAND THAT I'VE USED FOR YEARS its the best for what you need and you need the emery board nail shapers that women use that's those little sand paper files you'll see at the pharmacy or in the cosmetic department you can trim them to the size needed a sheet of 1000 grit sand paper and alcohol to do a final wash with paper towels to catch the run off (no smoking while doing this with spray and alcohol)clean the connectors/contacts/plugs with alcohol and contact spray use the emery boards and rolled up sand paper to get stubborn dirt/oxidation/corrosion off the contacts final wash out with alcohol next apply the carbon conductive grease to each contact or each plug with a pin or whatever little screw driver the mini ones when you use this grease just a little bit is all you need it brings back all contacts to 100% current transfer so when you put it in and connect the plugs unplug it again to clean any squeeze out if you put to much in you just need a small dot sized amount here like this---- + and work it in with a pin now try your antenna after everything mentioned here has been done first if it works HOORAY FOR YOU! if it doesn't now we know for sure it's the power unit of the antenna and you can rule out everything else because you just did it all, now got to the antenna outside and look into it do you see a bezel nut holding it to the fender if yes try to trap the nut counterclockwise to loosen it also tie or tape a piece of string to the top of the mast if you can so when it falls in you can pull it out of the fender and change the unit if you don't see a nut out side that looks like this + the center will be open for the unit and just the nut itself will have the notches then open your door and loosen the fender bolt on top and bottom under the truck at the frame and the back fender bolts so you can move out the fender to gain access to the unit you will probably need an open end wrench to turn the nut counterclockwise and some W D 40 OR LIQUID WRENCH it's been there for 17 years the truck came out in the fall of 98 so the rust will be there for sure and once its out look at the cable connection you might be able to fix this and put the original back in or install your new one reverse removal procedure NOW THE CARBON CONDUCTIVE GREASE YOU BOUGHT THIS IS GOOD FOR ALL CONNECTIONS UNDER THE HOOD AND EVERYWHERE ELSE FROM BATTERY CABLES TO SWITCH CONTACTS YOUR ENGINE IS CONTROLLED BY SENSORS THAT TRANSFER ELECTRICAL CURRENT IN VOLTAGE VALUES AND PULSES BACK TO THE COMPUTER SO IT CAN ADJUST ITSELF FOR OPTIMUM RUNNING CONDITIONS DOING THE CLEANING PROCEDURE DESCRIBED EARLIER WILL BRING THE SENSORS CONNECTORS BACK TO 100% CURRENT TRANSFER WHICH WILL GIVE YOU MORE MPG'S AND A STIFFER GAS PEDAL WHICH MEANS YOU'LL STEP DOWN LESS ON IT TO GET THE SAME RESULT AND THE TRUCK WILL RUN MUCH BETTER BECAUSE YOU JUST GAVE IT AN ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TUNE - UP THIS WILL HELP KEEP YOU OFF THE SIDE OF THE ROAD WAITING FOR A TOW TRUCK FROM SENSORS THAT HAVE FALLED OR ARE STILL GOOD BUT CAN'T SEND THE VOLTAGE BACK BECAUSE THE CONNECTION IS CORRODE/OXIDIZED SO THE TRUCK/CAR BREAKS DOWN REMEMBER THE VEHICLE IS OLD AND YOU ALWAYS CHANGED YOUR OIL AND SPARK PLUGS BUT YOU NEVER EVER TOOK CARE OF THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM BECAUSE YOU DIDN'T THINK YOU HAD TO WELL YOU DO AND YOU JUST FOUND THAT OUT YEARS OF WEATHER OUTSIDE + ELECTRICAL OXIDATION + DRIED UP LITHIUM GREASE AND YEARS OF THE HEATER/AND A/C ON THE INSIDE + SPILLED SODA/COFFEE OR WHATEVER AND THE OXIDATION/CORROSION AND SWITCH CONTACTS THAT BURN FROM HOLDING IT TRYING TO GET IT TO WORK AND OVERALL NORMAL USE, THESE THINGS WILL STOP STUFF FROM WORKING--------DO NOT USE DIELECTRIC OR WHITE LITHIUM ITS THE WRONG STUFF-----(I TOOK THE TIME TO WRITE THIS FOR YOU AND ALL WHO COME ACROSS THIS THREAD TO TEACH YOU AND HELP YOU HAVE A BETTER RUNNING VEHICLE AND ALL I ASK FOR IS THAT AFTER YOU HAVE SEEN THE RESULTS NOT BEFORE THAT YOU TIP YOUR HAT TO ME AND GIVE ME THE RATING DESERVED FOR THE EFFORT MADE HERE TO HELP ALL OF YOU) JUST A FEW HOURS OF PREVENTIVE MAINTANENCE ON A DAY OFF WILL BRING YOU RESULTS THAT WILL LAST A LONG TIME ----------GOOD LUCK TO ALL-------- AND MOST OF ALL GOD BLESS THE GREATEST COUNTRY IN THE WORLD OURS AMERICA THE BEAUTIFUL! -------------STEPHEN

It could, but not likely. There are shift solenoids inside the transmission that are controlled by the TCM (transmission control module) See if there are any connectors in the wiring harness that may not be fully engaged or not reconnected before exploring the insides of your transmission.

G'day, I don't know but the engine could be in survival mode. It enables you to get to the mechanic. Cheers Greg.

you need the remote control to do it if you disconnected the battery and then reconnected it when the alarm goes off you have to press the disarm button otherwise the alarm goes into theft mode and will not start buy the remote control if you need it now and you can program it into the system once in and the pats system has it stored you will then be able to start your car again good luck

Have you checked the brake switch for power ?

timing chain noise? is the timing chain hitting the cover? or is the chain worn out and not meshing with gears?

the computer has probably lost its code and will probably need to be reset.

Depending on the type of system you have, carburettor - there is a idle srew near the carb linkages, that you can turn up with the engine running that will adjust the idle. Also if its idling too high sometimes the autochoke could be stuck. If its injection - the idle solenoid could be gunked up. Remove and clean with carb cleaner or petrol then refit. And it will idle high at start then will settle Once engine reaches operating temp. Hope it helps

That is absolutely and totally wrong. They want your money. Go to another tire place and have them replace only the tire that is bad. If your other 3 tires are bald or mis-sized, replace them also but it will not affect the tranny.

Click on the attached file for the 1999 Explorer Onwer's Manual. Go to pages 176 through 189 to see the fuse layout and what every fuse controls. http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/99expog1e.pdf

Could be a head gasket. Check the oil. If it has a milky color u blew a head gasket.