20 Most Recent 1998 Ford Taurus - Page 9 Questions & Answers

i need a good vot first....

Blew a fuse is likely problem, especially if you did not jump it correctly. Cannot tell you how many times I have walked up to people in parking lots to potentially save their life and/or limbs. Connecting a dead battery to a live battery wire to wire is just plain dangerous. Start at the dead battery. Connect the red cable to the red (+) terminal on the dead battery. Connect the other end of that cable to the red (+) terminal of the live battery. Connect the black cable to the black (-) terminal of the live battery. (CAUTION: Before making this connection, make sure the other end is not touching a ground). Finally, connect the last connection to the dead battery's car on a good unpainted grounding point away from the battery if at all possible. A usually good point to use is the area where the hood latch is located. Small sparks will let you know it is a good ground. Start the live battery's car. Let it run for about 5-10 minutes with all lights and accessories turned off in both cars. Now attempt to start the dead battery car. Disconnect in reverse order. Good luck and be safe.

I'm guessing you bought the car used this happened to me and it was because the trunk had been replaced from a wreck and thus ended up being keyed different A locksmith can make you a new key otherwise its a pain Cuz if the battery goes dead you can't open it

The switches that activates the door ajar are located on the body frame. For front doors try looking between the hinges, on the frame of the body cavity. Might have a rubber grommet around it. On the back doors, look on the frame of the body cavity near the hinges.

Cam Sensor Go to You Tube Video It is on there

Check low antifreeze level--- Replace thermostat-- heater coil plugged, check for flow through heater coil, heater coil outside plugged no air flow replace air filter in dash and clean outside of heater coil if you have very low air movement to defrosters--- try this last thing first --- cheapest things first ,

Wiggle the steering-wheel, while holding your foot on the brake-pedal, and then the "interlocks" will allow you to shift out of "park".

take a look at the panel and you will see where the holes for screws are, when you line it with where it is suppose to go the holes will be where it screws.

Did you have the mode set to defrost? I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

that is not good. anytime coolant is leaving the cooling system via the exhaust it is a definite indication of a breach in the system such as a head gasket and at worst a cracked head. If the cars operating temp. climbed to high damage to the head is almost ensured. On the same note if the temp didn\'t get real high or if it has iron heads a gasket could very possibly solve the problem in either case its best to have the heads checked. its a time consuming job that has to be completely buttoned up to see if the fix works. if the heads are not checked and there is a crack which can and usually is not visible to the naked eye. the whole job has to be repeated which includes the repurchase of new head gaskets again as in they can not be torqued a second time as well as the head bolts if the vehicle does in fact have stretch bolts which are a one time torque bolts and must be replaced as well. good luck and i hope this helps.

replace temperature sensor first ,but usually fans come on only when a car is over heating , maybe replace fan relays maybe sticking .

Have a look under your car at the shift linkages to the gear box and ensure that they are still connected. If they are and they move when the shift is moved in the car, then you probably need a specialist auto transmission mechanic.

is ther any fuel to pump ?

check the fuse

Does the engine still crank over at normal starting speed? If not, put a socket and wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt and check that engine still turns freely. If the engine is seized, you know what that means-the terrible knocking was a main or rod bearing being bad, and seized up on the crankshaft. You would need a new engine. If the crankshaft still turns free, be very prudent about putting money into it until you have determined the cause of the knocking. That doesn't sound good, could still be a bad crankshaft bearing.

Can you be a little more descriptive? Year, Make, Model, and Engine Size? I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa