Top 10 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab Questions & Answers

cycle the key on and off I can't remember if its 6 or 8 times. the locks should cycle up and down then press any button on the fob the locks should cycle again then turn off key

97 f250 is it light duty - newer body style or heavy duty old body style??.. IF its older try 93-97 if its newer try-97-00

it should be the small green relay that is on the inner passenger side fender

did a search under Google images and found this for a 5.8

There are several things that can cause the flashing light. sometimes a simple fix is the change the RABS, this sensor is on the rear differiential and is not too expensive. Change it. Pull th epositive cables off of your batteries fro 15 minutes. Hook them back up and see what happens.
Here are some codes for your truck. :?) DRRXR

Checking and cleaning the battery and conections at the battery and starrter not forgetting the all impotant grounds is a must at first. slow cranking do to bad battery's or conections is a common cause witch will allso decrease the effectiveness of the glow plugs. Allso the glow plugs of this truck do have a problem of going out so a new set wouldn't hurt the other thing to know about this truck is that the light indecater is just a recomendation the plugs themselves will stay on for around two minutes so a delaid start ten to twenty seconds prior couldn't hurt and will help the enitial cold start. Other known hard start problems for this rig consist of worn fuel pump, bad glow plug relay, or high oil presure sender. I allso would refrain from using either by pluging the truck in tell you can find the problem.

Hello , chances are the 4x4 transfer motor/solenoid on the case either has no power , or has failed. I removed mine from my 2004 Explorer , dis-assembled and replaced the nylor washer and re-assembled and she works.

On this website you find fuse box diagram and description for Ford E250

Ford Series 250 E250 1995 2014 fuse box diagram Auto Genius

Ford Series 250 E250 1995 2014 fuse box diagram Auto...

autogenius.info

Check the brake fluid first.is it low or no brake fluid at all.is the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up. Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:--

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
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Section 05-03C: Wheel Hubs and Bearings, Front Wheels, 4-Wheel Drive 1997 F-250/350/Super Duty Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 05/17/2000 Locking Hubs, Manual




Item Part Number Description 1 3A329 Halfshaft 2 3C132 Rolling Diaphragm Seal (Axle) 3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal 4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle 5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle 6 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal 7 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup 4222) 8 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor 9 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup 4222) 10 - Pin (Part of 1195) 11 1195 Inner Lock Nut 12 1198 Lockwasher 13 1197 Outer Lock Nut 14 - Steel Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 15 - Plastic Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 16 - Splined Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 17 3B457 Snap Ring 18 1K105 Hub Body 19 - Lock Ring (Part of 1K106) 20 1K104 Cap 21 1K104 Capscrew A - While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten Inner Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). B - Tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 4-6 Nm
(35-53 Lb-In) Removal

1. Separate cap assembly from hub body by removing the three Torx® head capscrews.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the lock ring seated in the groove of the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the hub body assembly from the front disc brake hub and rotor. If the body is difficult to remove, install two capscrews and pull the body assembly out of the front disc brake hub and rotor.
   
   
   
   
   

1. NOTE: Do not pack the hublock body assembly or cap with grease. Excessive grease can cause excessive dialing effort and hub failure.
   
   Follow removal procedure in reverse order.
   

1. Tighten three Torx® head capscrews to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb-in).