1995 Ford F350 - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There are sometime two temp sensors on a vehicle which is common in your trucks year. One going to the computer and another going to your gauge. You could be replacing the wrong one.

what seals ?

What the manufacture recommends see below

If shimmy/Loose Steering has been experienced, replace the steering gear sector shaft with Repair Kit (F6AZ-3575-AA)

Be more cost effective to buy the part from Napa and install , you will have a warranty and a new part ...
Hope this helps

did you replace the trans or the clutch, caus the clutch is slipping,

the thermostat is on the top of motor next to the dist.just throw top radiator hose from radiator to the motor

these websites may help, Tim:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/us1097.htm

http://www.autohausaz.com/html/oil_pressure.html

If thread pull out and the steering wheel does not pull out then there is definitely a challenge ahead.

Maybe use helicoil system to drill out the holes and install helicoil spring so that the threads may be restored. I'm not sure if it will work on this application though because of the lack of space behind the plate.

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Steering Wheel REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Without Air Bag EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MODELS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS MODELS Fig. 1: Remove the screws from behind the wheel - F-150 model without air bag
Fig. 2: Pull away the cover with the wiring still connected
Fig. 3: Disconnect the wiring at the steering wheel
Fig. 4: Matchmark the steering wheel
Fig. 5: Remove the center nut from the steering wheel
Fig. 6: Use a steering wheel puller to remove the wheel
Fig. 7: Remove the steering wheel from the shaft
Fig. 8: Correct steering wheel installation
NOTE: The factory recommends that the front wheels be set in the straight-ahead position and you paint or make chalk marks on the column and steering wheel hub for alignment purposes during installation. Of these two safeguards, it is more important to mark the column so even if the column is moved slightly, the steering wheel can still be repositioned in its original position.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the one screw from the underside of each steering wheel spoke, and lift the horn switch assembly (steering wheel pad) from the steering wheel. On vehicles equipped with the sport steering wheel option, pry the button cover off with a suitable prytool.
3. Disconnect the horn switch wires at the connector and remove the switch assembly. On trucks equipped with speed control, squeeze the J-clip ground wire terminal firmly and pull it out of the hole in the steering wheel. Don't pull the wire out without squeezing the clip.
4. Remove the horn switch assembly.
5. Remove the steering wheel retaining nut and remove the steering wheel with a puller. WARNING
   Never hammer on the wheel or shaft to remove it! Never use a knock-off type puller.
   
6. Install the steering wheel in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the shaft nut to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)

F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS MODELS

1. Set the front wheel in the straight-ahead position and make chalk marks on the column and steering wheel hub for alignment purposes during installation.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the one screw from the underside of each steering wheel spoke, and lift the horn switch assembly (steering wheel pad) from the steering wheel.
4. Disconnect the horn switch wires at the connector and remove the switch assembly.
5. Remove the horn switch assembly.
6. Remove the steering wheel retaining nut and remove the steering wheel with a puller. WARNING
   Never hammer on the wheel or shaft to remove it! Never use a knock-off type puller.
   
7. Install the steering wheel in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the shaft nut to 30-42 ft. lbs. (41-57 Nm).

With Air Bag Fig. 9: Remove the air bag module and disconnect the wiring harnesses
CAUTION
Read the air bag service precautions in Section 6 prior to doing work involving an air bag equipped steering column component. Always wear safety glasses when servicing an air bag vehicle and handling the air bag to avoid possible injury.

1. Turn the front wheels to the straight-ahead position.
2. Disconnect the battery-to-starter relay cable for at least one minute to let the air bag back-up power supply discharge.
3. Remove the air bag module from the steering wheel (refer to Section 6).
4. Disconnect the horn/speed control wiring from the steering wheel.
5. Remove the steering wheel retaining bolt.
6. Install the Differential Bearing Cone Remover/Replacer, No. T77F-4220B1, or equivalent, and remove the steering wheel. Route the contact assembly harnesses through the steering wheel as it is lifted off of the shaft. To install: NOTE: Make sure the front wheels are still in the straight-ahead position prior to installation.
   
7. Route the air bag sliding contact wiring through the steering wheel at the 3 o'clock position. Position the steering wheel on the shaft an align the marks. Make sure not to pinch the contact wire. WARNING
   Make sure no air gets trapped between the steering wheel and air bag sliding contact.
   
8. Install a new steering wheel retaining bolt, then tighten to 23-33 ft. lbs. (31-45 Nm).
9. Connect the horn/speed control wiring and clip in place. Connect the air bag wire harness. Tighten the module retaining nuts to 35-53 inch lbs. (4-6 Nm). NOTE: When the battery cable has been disconnected, then reconnected, some abnormal driving symptoms may occur for the first 10 miles (16 km) until the PCM re-learns it adaptive strategy.
   
10. Connect the battery to starter cable. Verify the air bag warning indicator light on the instrument panel.

It is likely you have air in the lines. Is your parking brake indicator staying on? Check fluid level in reservoir. If fluid is low, you probably have a leak that must be repaired.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6004281-brake_indicator_light_stays and let me know if you have questions.

*If* you had the key these are the steps: Insert the key and turn to the RUN position. There is a small hole in the steering column below the ignition switch. Insert a 1/8" drill bit (or something similar size) and push upward on the retaining pin in the hole. As you do this, pull out the cylinder lock. It should come right out. To reinstall, turn the new cylinder to the RUN position. Again depress the retaining pin and insert the switch into the steering column. Make sure the new switch is completely seated & aligned before you turn to the OFF position. This will let the retaining pin extend into the hole.

Because you do not have the key you will need to pick (or have the lock picked) before you can replace the lock cylinder.

Test the connections at the blower motor with a multimeter. If you're getting power replace the motor.

it might not be labeled taillight check all fuses. some fuses feed other fuses and are not labeled as such

Unfortunately you will have to remove the axles on that model of truck to access the brakes and it is necessary to replace the seals at this time because you will probably cut the old seals upon removal.I would recommend that if you are going to check them you at least need to clean and de glaze the old shoes if you don't replace them!!!! make sure to use a good quality brake cleaner.

HI, a diesel doesn't really require a tune it has no spark plugs or ignition components to replace. there are maintenance items that you should be doing such as filters make sure you don't have water in your fuel also.

Are there any exhaust leaks?, also make sure its not running rich and making manifold extra hot, there should be heat sheilds on those manifold also they may have rusted away.

What is the coolant temperature and how are you measuring it? You need an accurate temperature gauge (the truck doesn't have an accurate one).

Check the fuel pressure! This symptom could be caused by other problems, but it sure can't hurt to start by making sure the fuel pressure is correct.

5.0L and 5.8L same fireing order, 7.5L fireing order, fireing order for both below.Hope this was very helpful.

There are two methods typically used:

First involves a small clip at the back of the knob itself. I presume that you have the next method.

2nd is a button on the switch itself. About midway down the light switch is a spring loaded button. Pull the lights to on, press this button and the knob and shaft will be released. Then unscrew the light switch and you can remove it.

SOUNDS LIKE A VACUUM PROBLEM ...CHECK THEVACUUM RESERVOIRS FOR LEAKS ,,CRACKS ETC ,, USE A HAND OPERATED VACUUM PUMP AND PLUG THE OTHER PORTSTO SEE IF IT HOLDS VACUUM. ALSO CHECK THE PLASTIC VACUUM LINE THAT SUPPLIES THE A/C CONTROLL SWITCH . THERE SHOULD BE A CLEAR 2 HOSE CONNECTOR BELOW THE GLOVE COMPARTMENT I THINK THERE ARE 2 HOSES THAT ARE USED ,BLACK , GRAY , USE A SMALL VACUUM T AND INSTALL IN THE VACUUM SUPPLY LINE ( I THINK IT'S THE BLACK LINE ) TEST DRIVE THE VEHICLE AND SEE IF THE VACUUM GUAGE ON THE PUMP FALLS DURING ACCELL IF IT DOES TURN OFF THE A/C AND RETEST IF IT FALLS . AGAIN CHECK ENGINE VACUUM AT INTAKE MANIFOLD SUPPLY PORT TO VACUUM CANISTER ,, I HAVE SEEN ANYTHING FROM CRACKED VACUUM LINES ,CHECK VALVES, TO CAT CONVERTORS CAUSE THIS

HOPE THIS GETS YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION

IF A FUSE WAS BLOWN BOTH SIDES WOULD BE INOPERATIVE ,, MOST LIKELY A BLOWN BULB OR CONNECTION PROBLEM OR POSSIBLE SWITCH MALFUNCTION . TURN FLASHERS ON AND SEE IF BOTH SIGNALS WORK WHEN REPLACING BULBS USE DIELECTRIC GREASE TO PROTECT AGAINST CORROSION

HOPE THIS HELPS