1995 Ford F350 - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Anytime that you get a code that isn't listed, it is usually a fault in the PCM.

Need more information. Does it crank over and not fire or does it not even turn the starter

Manual or Automatic? Check Tracy fluid level if automatic, and check where the shifter connects to your tranny to make sure connection idles free and working, and not seized up. If you have a manual tranny, check your clutch and all associated fluids. wost case scenario, you need to either rebuild your tranny, or buy one at the junkyard for cheap.

I had the same problem, have you checked all your fuses. My problem ended up being the heater circuit for the fuel bowl was shorted. I unplugged it. You might need it if you live in Alaska.

Carpart.com

What type of leak? Oil, coolant etc. and where's it leaking from?

This is the 94 7.3 liter belt diagram.

Sounds like a loose or defective motor mount may be contributing to your problem....

If you front tank is low. The fuel pump isn't getting the gas it needs. Don't run the front tank down to nothing.

It's probably computer related, so it's too bad your co-pilot wasn't a trained monkey-wrencher who just happened to have a good quality scanner plugged in, flipping through various live stream data screens...he could have seen it happening and hit "freeze frame" function on the scanner. Then could retrieve that and see all processes like 30 seconds before, and 30 seconds after pressing the freeze frame button. Watching the action of all sensors and controlling switches that the computer controls or gets input from, might help to isolate the problem. In closing, and only partly in jest, don't let the boys at ford take you for a ride. Go hire an independent mechanic and take him for a ride.

start with getting somebody to toggle the ignition to see if you hear the fuel pump running with the ignition in the on position do not crank. if you don't hear fuel pump running check fuel pump fuse and relay. hope it helps!

Use Google & type:OBD P1249 & read up

fuel sensor or air sensor

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for. These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out, you will know which system is having the problem.

Is it not getting spark, or not getting fuel thru the injectors ?If its no spark, its usually the ignition module or the pickup in the distributor. You might also check for power at the coil from the EEC relay.

Two things which come to mind are the new manifold/gasket did not seat or cracked when torqued down, or there was a problem with a stud.For the stud, if the stud turned further into the head when the nut was tightened, it could have cracked the head. Some manifolds used bolts instead of nuts to fasten the manifold. Memory fails me which type you have, but you could check to see if all bolts have same Part# per Dealer and if different, the wrong length could have gone into the wrong place.For Future reference, there are some new ideas in manifold fasteners by Aftermarket makers. Each fastener is 2-piece and the seats expand when the bolt is installed.I think your new manifold cracked. Exhaust leaks sound like a knock each time that cylinder fires with the cracked port.Would like to know what you found.

tengo problemas con mi caminoneta f350 ford el systema de four well drive cuando lo tengo en neutral la camioneta no camina en camvio ni para atras o para delane cual sera el problema.

check altenator or bad battery or both

If this is a gas engine, check for air leaks on the intake manifold and every vacuum line and switch you see. Use a pump spray water bottle and with the engine running, spray around seams and such. A change in rpm or stalling will indicate the leak.What is probably happening is the air leak is making the system run rich to balance the air/fuel ratio. This would make more fuel dump into the engine where it is not needed.Another possibility is a loss of the signal from an O2 sensor. The O2 sensor sends a signal to the ECM to set the fuel demands and let the engine controls know that the fuel ratio is rich-normal-lean to adjust to optimum running condition.Now if this is a Diesel, the hard to start condition would be due to an inoperative glowplug timer or worn glowplugs. If this is the mechanically injected model, the injector pump is timed to get the fuel into the cylinder either earlier or later to change the fuel ratio. Your diesel injector pump would need to be retimed. It will help across the board.Please rate my info and let me know how you solved this.

diesel or gas engine. if you have a power stroke, look at powerstroke.org