20 Most Recent 1995 Ford F350 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

do you have a good battery
check with volt meter at starter to ground do you have 12 volts?
Lee

First thing to check would be the power steering pump. Check the fluid level and with the truck running, you should see fluid moving in the reservoir.

you need to see what the fault is. its resetting itself

Okay, If this noise happens when you turn the Key to start, your Starter Relay is bad. Now the other possibility is the Glowplug Timer. When you start a Diesel there is a pause in the initial cold start. You turn the Igniition Key to Run, then let the Glowplug Timer cycle. This cycle sound will be a series of clicks which also may cause the lights to dim.

The glowplugs absolutely must warm up to start a cold diesel engine. There should be a light on the dash which either goes off when the glowplugs are ready or a light will turn on when they are ready. It is only after that activity that you will turn the Key to Start.

Since Diesels take more power to Start, there are 2 batteries. As with a single battery system, every connection must be clean. If the Glow-plug Timer is working and you only get clicks by turning your Key to Start, check the things I said earlier. Your Starter Relay and the big cable connections.

If after all of that, the engine will not turn over and only clicks, jump the Starter Relay with 1 cable from a jumper cable set from the Positive Battery cable post to the Starter Relay on the Starter wire connector. Make sure the truck is in Park or Neutral. If the Starter jumper cable sparks and the Starter does not turn, the Starter is bad. If the Starter spins it confirms the Relay is bad.

I hope my Solution gets you going and that you consider this helpful.

Change out your fuel filter, if you already have change your Idle Air Control valve.

Hi there,

Disconnect battery. You will need two wrenches to disconnect the battery. One to secure the bolt, and the other to undo the nut on the other end. You will need a half inch wrench to undo the battery. The starter itself is on the underside of the truck. It is in the center front of the truck, a bit toward the passenger side of the truck. It is a black cylinder, about 6inches long. You will need to get under the truck to access it.

Since the starter is next to other components, plan on using your socket wrench to undo the bolts. The starter is mounted with 2 bolts, remove them. (Some are mounted with 3 bolts - the third is hidden on the top of the starter. You will know if it has a third because it won't slide out easily.) Remove Positive wire from solenoid. Remove red wire with plastic black end by simply pulling on it. Starter is out! Take the old starter to the auto parts store with you when you buy the new starter. The parts store will give you a significant discount on the new part in exchange for returning the old starter.

Hope this helps...

Check the ignition module, most parts stores can test them.

The only thing I can think of for this is maybe the "heat/cold" "diverter" is stuck!

this could be many things first you need to fine out if your batter is charged if not see if it can even hold a charge if the battery is all good check the connections you might have corrosion or lose wires and if nether of them are the problem it might be a bad alternator

run a code scan on the truck

call tasca ford. go to their discount website, tascafordparts.com.

More than likely he replaced a fuel filter. They clog up depending on the kind of driving, amount of mileage and fuel you use. Especially this time of year w/big temp swings, moisture/condensation forms in fuel tanks and filter also try to filter that. I'd try fuel filter to resolve your problem

sounds like you got air in the system, when you replaced the master cylinder, you need to bleed it all out takes a lot of fluid to go through the system to get all air out

Fix the issue of why it kicking the code. Dont just erase it otherwise your not fixing anything. When you clear the code it erases the info in the pcm so it acts like nothing is wrong until you drive it around a bit and the vehicle re-detects the issue. If you want tell me the code and I will tell you how to fix it.

fill master cylinder with fluid, start engine, pump brakes till it got some resistance, have a helper open the bleeder valve at the rear passenger side first while the pedal is to the floor. repaet 4-5 times or until the pedal gets hard and no air coming out. do this to the other wheels one after the other. 1 rear passenger, 2 rear driver, 3 front passenger, 4 front driver. repeat as needed

hello i can assist you the first thing your going to have to do is check your trans mission fluid level that is located under your engines hood compartment.Usually the transmission fluid pull stuck is yellow handle closer to the windshield in front of your firewall.You will need to have your truck running in park to correctly check the transmission fluid level the markings on the stick will assist you it will show full level cold full level engine hot best time to check is when engine is at operation temperature.If you find that your fluid was low and you needed to top it up with transmission fluid be sure to refer to year make and model when you purchase your fluid most time type "F" but these can very so read the label or ask at your auto parts counter at time of purchase.If you check your fluid and is full you will need to take your truck in for further assessment this is a internal problem and will need to be hoisted and further examined by a transmission specialist.

u have to remove the drive shaft all the wires there are like 8 or 12 bolts make shore you have a transmither=n jack and just unbolt it

sounds like a faulty fuel injector

check if the drain to drain out the water from the filter housing is leaking, its a common thing to leak, the dealer will have it in stock. as far as being told what the leak is, that impossible, unless someone has actually looked and saw where the leak is from. you may need to take a small mirror and a flashight, and look at the drain with the engine running to verify the leak,.

The fuel pump is in the tank. Lower the gas tank and unhook all the lines. On the top there should be a big round disk holding the sending unit down use a hammer or dead blow hammer and a punch to knock it counter clockwise. The sending unit should pop up, save the rubber o-ring that is under it as you will reuse it unless the new one has one. Pull the sending unit out of the tank and yout pump will be on it. I believe on those ones you have to reach into the tank and pinch 2 clips on the sides to get the pump out of the tank. Reverse order to reinstall. Make sure ring on top is all the way back on before putting tank back in place. I usually get someone to help with the hold down ring and we both use a dead blow and punch from each side to knock it back into place