20 Most Recent 1995 Ford F350 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

may be the water level is low or the piston rings or head are wornout .check the motor oil level too

I know on chevys that there's a module on the motor itself that is a common problem in those trucks. I'd check and see if there's one on the ford. It costs a whole $20 at the oreillys

If you have a hard brake pedal, most of the time the pwodber booster is gone. There is possible that the vacuum line going to it is bad or has come off and not providing vacuum to it. Hope this helps and good luck.

There is an adjustment its on top of the steering box there is a nut you need to lossen with a stud with a sloted head coming throught it lossen the nut then screw the slotted stun in a turn or so tighten the nut and this will cut down steering wheel playto like new but don;t over do it you should have an inch of free play side to side

There should be a black bushing(Basic# 7L278) underneath the two clamps that surrounds the shift tube(Basic# 7212). While you have it apart you may want to pull the plunger(Basic# 7R264) out of the tube and make sure its not bent or damaged too. If you go into any Ford dealer and tell them the Basic #s they should be able to look up the exact parts that you want.

a 15mm socket or open wrench

check your bulbs

There isn't a 5 liter but there is a 5.8 liter. Here is a picture:

might check your filters, Or maybe you got some bad gas causing it to lose power. good luck to ya.

Its hard to tell exactly whats going on here because it could be all sorts of thngs but I have had 93 with a 7.3 for a long time. I had a similar problem and found my gas lines were sucking air somewhere in the lines between the two tanks and the injection pump. Air in the lines creates havoc for a diesel and this sound slike the same problem to me. Try switching over to the other tank and see if it still does it. I run mine on my front tank only because of this. I beleive there may have been a recall related to something like this for the two tank models. Its is switch or something. Mine woould run rough down the highway and if you had to slow down or stop it might die if you didnt keep the rpms up. If it did die, it took it forever to start up. Hope this helps.

Use a pocket screw driver - pull light switch knob out and pull back on metal retainer for knob until it releases . Remove insteument panel bezel around cluster and remove screws that retain the switch assy and rwmove switch and unplug connector- note it may be melted and hard to remove ! Once out push the button on the bottom of switch assy while pulling out rod , remove the the rod . If connector is melted obtain a pigtail connector and cut and solder a new connector in and install switch in reverse order ! Note that useing diaelectric grease in connector to switch helps with conductivity and helps block moisture !

CHANGE THE TRANSMISSION FILTER ,AND PUTNEW TRANSMISSION FLUID IN IT ,AND ALSO CHANGE THE VACCUM LINE ON THE SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSON IT POPS OUT AND IN IT HELPS THE TRANS CHANGE OUT

It depends on equipment and expertise, but under the best case scenario , I would say about 15 man hours should do it.

If you are talking about the brake proprotioning valve, these are not ajustable. they work or they don't work. If yours is not working you can try to clean them up on the inside, some can be taken apart. you know it is working when you shake it and you can hear the valve on the inside moving, Rattling

I am not sure what you are looking for. I am not sure what you mean by stock track bar brk. Can you please explain? Thanks!

Have you checked the fuse? Is there a fuel reset button?

Is there a leak on the pipe near the gas cap? Is it connected to the tank?