1994 Ford Thunderbird - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

hat is the compressor atop the engine. you skipped step #1 0: new compressor put on ( has oil with or not? oops. 1: do vacuum leak down test. if fail and did, fix this now. 2: pull a full vacuum max, for 30mins. (tool called pump vac 3: put in the freon, by weight, and test it, using manifold gauge per the manual, on car. (service man) off hand blind , wrong pump or wrong port adapter.

if you saying the fan wont blow it may need a fan motor not uncommon it might be a speed switch if it has one some time you can hook a wire on the back of the speed switch plug in to get it on high use a 14 gauge wire or bigger a small jumper bent in a loop with the rubber peeled off the ends and shove them in the switch plug find the 12 volt ht wire on the plug with light or vom then try the other wires one at a time til fan runs with ignition switch on

Blower motor resister should be next to blower motor 2 screws and looks like a curcuit board with a spring
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_a14a43e01fd0835a

Here is a link to the wiring diagrams. http://bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

1994 Ford Thunderbird Service Repair Manual Software Download Manuals...

Let someone do it that knows how. You don't want gas in your eyes or a fire. You really should observe it done first. Keep any source of electricity or flame away. You always disconnect the battery cable and release the fuel pressure at the fuel rail valve. Looks like a tire valve. It really is something you need to see done. don-ohio

They do sell by pass pulley at parts store . https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=1994+ford+thunderbird+a+c+by+pass+pully&id=75D3C8EB026D6E9DC5C28FD7E8529B85D8920A71&FORM=IQFRBA

You need to run a quick test on the engine control computer. You may also just have a defective electric fuel pump inside the fuel tank. This will reveal any fault codes that might be present. Follow the instructions at the link EEC IV Self Test Ford Fuel Injection and EEC IV Electronic Engine Control...

No but you should check the gap, fords work well if its between .045 and .055 inches

Sounds like it is over extending its self. Have the drum checked for thickness. It may be too thin. Also check the pads. If all is good replace the piston.

could be a faulty fan relay or fan motor switch resistor

I am a little confused by the way you state the problem, but I think you have a defective keypad. Have that verified by the dealer. problem is you can't buy a new one anymore the part is out of production.

Do you have a spare ignition key? They send a code to the car to prevent theft. If the key doesn't send the code, it won't start. It has to be a factory style key. If you had a regular key made, it won't work. It has to be the one like come with it. If the factory key is broken, You can get a regular key made, just hold the factory key next to the other key while starting. Key and lock stores sell and program the keys. And can test your keys too.

Craw underneath the car. Towards the back of the transmission there is a connector and a couple wires going to it. Check the connection. If it is okay, try replacing the sender. It's the part with the connector.

Try replacing the wiring harness that connects to the top of the alternator. They vibrate and the wires inside break. They are only about twelve dollars.

Something is overheating. It could be an ignition module or the fuel line.

were is what located?

Doing what ?

So you have a hole in the exhaust where bung used to be? Weld in new bung. Or do you mean you can't find the existing O2 sensor?