20 Most Recent 1994 Ford Probe Questions & Answers

Sounds like a bad blower motor resistor.

Check out this... https://www.2carpros.com/questions/headlights-close-on-their-own-or-just-dont-open

It is a known issue on this vehicle. https://www.google.com/search?q=1994+Ford+Probe.+It+starts%2C+but+why+doesn%27t+it+continue+running ..

Best take it to a dealer, if you play with it and make a wrong connection it could deploy and cause major damage.

Okay first of all I want you to do a couple of things to get this problem fixed the first is understand if it's running foot on gas it's not the relay it's working ok now changing the fuel filter is must for any new car you just got so you know how long it's been in and can be ruled out next your problem can be 1 of 7(1) clean out the throttle body with a cleaner built up varnish and dirt will cause poor running and stalling (2) check all vacuum lines for cracking or breaks///to also find them take a long enough piece of rubber hose and put 1 end in your ear YES I SAID THAT and put cotton or paper towel in your other one to block outside noise you are making a stethoscope for listening to hissing vacuum leaks from the lines and the throttle body this is a trick I'm teaching you that you'll use for the rest of time (3)take out your spark plugs and inspect them for proper gap any insulator cracking and replace or just regap them cleaning the electrodes of any possible debris inspect the ignition wires for soft Splitting boots by flexing them back and forth and the wires themselves for burns in the jackets and also flex to check for brittleness. (4) observe the coil pack with a magnifying glass and look for cracks in the towers and the whole housing//// also if you have a garage look at the coil pack in the dark any escaping voltage will show itself if no garage a blanket at night ime will do tape it down to avoid flapping in the wind and any hazard of getting hurt if it's a old one poke holes in it and tie it down around you or just pick a very dark location to check for escaping spark (5) now after this process of eliminating other possible causes and your motor still is doing the same thing running only with gas peddle and not at idle your idle air control valve is shot and possibly your throttle position sensor the contact inside could be worn at the idle spot but if you Rev the motor and it runs for 3-4 seconds then dies it's not the throttle position sensor and now it's time to spend $$$ on the idle air control valve make sure when you change it to position the gasket correctly DO NOT USE RTV OR ANY SEALER WHATSOEVER JUST POSITION AND TIGHTEN PROPERLY AFTER START AND SEE IF IT KEEPS RUNNING IT SHOULD BUT IF FOR SOME REASON IT DOESN'T THEN CHANGE THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR AND YOU SHOULD BE DONE WITH THE PROBLEM (6)after we have the Ole girl running now take 2 cans of Berrimans B12 Chem tool fuel system cleaner and put it in the tank this double shot will clean out anything in the lines the rest of the throttle body and it will give a higher temperature flame in the exhaust that will help with cleaning out the catalytic convertor combined with a full tank of premium gas like shell,exxon,mobile,bpor sunoco 93 octane Do not use cheap no name gas and the Berrimans is cleaning out that junk so you would contradict what your doing these high-quality fuels have detergents in them and the 93 octane/Berrimans combo is exactly what your motor wants and needs now go cruising on the highway for 5-10 miles each way so you understand what's happening with the fuel the higher the octane level the more stable and slower the fuel burns and with the Berrimans your getting optimal cleaning of your whole fuel and emission system and now that we have a very good running motor and the problems are solved there's one more thing to do and your done (7) I want you to buy carbon conductive grease from an electronics store or from the NET DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE OK IT'S IMPORTANT THAT YOU STAY WITH ME HERE ON THIS AND I'LL EXPLAIN WHY ALL OTHERS ARE NOT FOR THIS JOB CARBON CONDUCTIVE GREASE IS THE ABSOLUTE BEST FOR SENSORS CONTACTS AND SWITCHES ////DIELECTRIC GREASE IS A MOISTURE BARRIER GREASE FOR IGNITION IT DOES NOT TRANSFER CURRENT AND YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS WITH OTHERS FOR THE SAME REASON AND ALSO THERE MELTING POINT WILL BE A MUCH LOWER TEMPERATURE AND CAUSE IT TO LIQUIFY AND RUN WHICH WILL CAUSE POSSIBLE GROUNDING AND CIRCUITS TO JUMP TO EACH OTHER SHORTING OUT COMPONENTS SO ONLY CARBON CONDUCTIVE GREASE OK!///UNPLUG EACH SENSOR AND WITH A TOOTHPICKS WORTH AT A TIME PUT THE GREASE INTO EACH PIN IN THE PLUG A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY SO USE IT AT A DOTS WORTH FOR EACH PIN AND PUT THE PLUG IN THEN REMOVE IT AGAIN TO MAKE SURE NO GREASE IS SQUEEZING OUT IF SO CLEAN IT BUT THERE SHOULDN'T BE BECAUSE YOU USED A DOTS WORTH RIGHT! AND NOW GO TO EVERY SENSOR PLUG AND DO THE SAME THING /////WHAT YOUR DOING IS GIVING YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM A TUNE UP YEP THAT'S RIGHT AND WHY? Well because your engine runs on gas but its controlled by electrical voltage from the sensors around the engine and by lubricating the sensor plugs with the right grease you have now brought the connections around the engines sensors to the optimum and the results will be better mpgs and a much better signal transfer back to the computer (ECM) SO IT CAN ADJUST AND OPERATE YOUR ENGINE AT ITS OPTIMAL LEVELS AS IT WAS DESIGNED TO OPERATE ALSO A LESS CHANCE OF SENSOR FAILURE BECAUSE THE SIGNAL FROM THE ECM IS RECEIVED IN THE 100'S/OF A SECOND AS ITS SUPPOSED TO SO EVERTHINGS FUNCTIONING PRECISELY AS IT SHOULD ///////so you know where this info is coming from I'm a taxi mechanic in nyc.with 50 years experience in all phases of the automobile mechanics and we have vehicles with 300,000-400,000+ miles on the original motors and I picked your question because you were a little off the beaten path with the relay and now you and anyone else who reads this thread will now be on the yellow brick road now just joking good luck and enjoy the learning process and experience and and always write down what you're doing as a record for your knowledge later stephen

plugged cat /o2 sensor

1. Answer: The engine noise, it is impossible for us to help you here without listening to the engine ourselves. As for your idling problem, check all the vacuum hoses and intake manifold gaskets as you might have a slight vacuum leak somewhere. In addition, check the idle speed control motor to make sure it is operating properly. If all checks out okay, scan the computer for fault codes. Scan the computer for fault codes. Also, check the oxygen sensor and coolant sensors and also Check your EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve it sounds like it is stuck open and needs replacing

Could have vacuum leak , dirty throttle plate , idle air control problem . Would have to do some testing an inspecting to say what the fix would be. An don't adjust base idle screw , it will mess up the computer . If unfamiliar with these thing's your best bet would be to take to a qualified repair shop . Ford IAC valve test how to adjust minimum idle speed Check out some more videos on testing idle control

bypassed its immobiliser ... yep that would be right wont have spark at the plugs yeti dont think fixya would like instructions given out to sort your problem tow to the probe an auto electrician you will need a full engine bay loom wiring diagram other ECU wires need power at crank the crank angle sensor has to have power feed the injectors and fuel pump also need power

check the radio stores as you may be able to get a radio harness to connect the aftermarket radio to the factory wiring harness so you won`t have to cut and splice, its just a plug and go.

Check your fuel system, especially your fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator.

the colors are the same for all aftermarket stereos. yellow =constant power + for memory, red=ignition + to turn it off and on, black = ground - , blue= power antenna wire, the restare speaersin pairs, grey fr, green rr, white fl, purple rl, and sometimes an orange for headlight dimmer.

It is a drum brakes like a car or truck would have. that being said there is a rubber oval shaped plug on the inside of the brake plate near the bottom. the adjuster needs to be let off before the drum can be removed because of the wear ridge inside the drum.