20 Most Recent 1990 Ford F250 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Hello Mike! Send the engine size and I'll go to work on the problem...Guru...Saailer I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

It could be the tank switch contacts on the drivers side frame, I think there are copper contacts inside.

Along the right side underneath along the frame

This issue had nothing to do with the glow plugs nor the batteries. This is most likely an issue with the fuel system. I would have to start with the fuel filter and see if that may not be plugged up.

Jack up the axle and secure it. Remove the rim and tire. Remove the caliper. Remove the manual hub cover (the part that engages the hub) by removing the small Allen head bolts.Remove the big snap ring/"C" ring along the outer edge. Screw 2 of the Allen head locking hub bolts back in and use them to pull the lock out. Next is a large nut that has four indentations in it. There's a special socket 4x4 socket available for around $15 that fits right in there. Remove that nut and the whole rotor and hub will slide off. Because the socket doesn't scar it like tapping it around with a small hammer and blunt chisel.

If you have the non adjustable clutch push rod, the adjustment proceedure is to remove the clutch rod arm from the clutch shaft under the dash and reclock it so it pushes the clutch rod in farther...also check to make sure the master cylinder is full of dot 3 fluid and the system has no air in it.

Your local auto parts store should have a clutch fan removal tool available for rent. You will need to re-install the four bolts that hold the pulley on, as this tool utilizes these bolts to hold the pump from turning.

If it starts when you jump the ignition switch without a problem then it's the wiring from the key ignition to the starter switch. Check the connections to the switch and then follow those wires back as far as possible, opening wire wraps carefully so you can put them back on. Look for burnt pulled or worn wires. If it cannot be found you can get a tracer tool fro wires from Auto-Zones " Tool loan program" you pay for the tool but if brought back in good condition you get all your money back. I will tell you if the signal is making it to the switch. By the way you can only jump the switch so many times before you arch it too many times and then that won't work again and will need to be replaced too. If it is a wiring problem have it fixed by a certified garage so if anything goes wrong with it again you can bring it back and they will fix it. Make sure they have a good reputation.

You need to replace your heater coil. That is the only place that Radiator fluid comes into the cabin area.

The Inertia switch, located on the passenger side floor board against the right side kick panel. At the top if it is a button, put you finger up in there and you will feel it. Press it back down, just like a push button switch, it should stay down. If it doesnt the switch is bad, but unlikely.

if it has a carb then prime the manual fuel pump

the fuel shut off switch? simply push in the red button on top of the switch. if it doesn't click when you push the button the the switch wasn't tripped.

the shift cable has most likly streached out causing this, there may be an adjustment on the transmisson but usally this indicates time for a replacment cable please rate

Replace the ignition module and that should take care of the problem.