1992 Dodge Colt - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Start with the ignition coil. It should have power to it with key on. Should be battery voltage on the primary circuit to the coil-that's the coil positive terminal. If the coil is good, it could be a bad ignition module-the module cuts primary current to the coil when commanded by the engine computer. It could be several things-fouled plugs, bad plug wires, cracked distributor cap, bad rotor, crank sensor or pick up coil (inside the distributor), pcm. Test the ignition coil, or try a known good coil.

run fault codes and check for cam/crank position sensor. Check for cam shaft turning (Broken timing belt / chain). Check that the immobiliser is operational

Obviously if you have removed it then you would know where it connects. Simply follow the cable, you should find where it connects.

If you have confirmed that the motor has failed then the first thingg to be done is to source the orginal part from Dodge. Once this is done you need to remove the panel to remove the old unit before the new one can be fitted back. Now make sure that the links to the blade are free and moves without friction if the motor had burnt out in the first place.

may need tune up

To know excalty what sensor is failed, need to scaned the PCM (computer); sometimes, Autozone or Autoshop with OBD scanner reader make this job for free. Just note this fault code number and send us for additional details.

Contact us HERE.

could be it only needs a service,, they will change the fluid and filter,,

1992 Dodge Colt 1.5 liter SOHC L4 VIN "A"



Hope helps.

To really get the correct answer, I personnally
would go to a dealer,not call them,go to the
parts dept,give them your VIN and get the
correct answer.

Then you can go where ever you want for the fluid

I lost you, stupid computer. Anyhow there are 8 different engines for the dodge colt in the early 1990's I can only assume its the 1.4L, 1.5L or 2.4L. The 1.4L & 1.5L the timing marks are exactly the same. The Cam points to 3:00 marks ther. The crank points almost straight up, slightly to the right, mark on engine cover. The 2.4L has 3 marks, The crank has an alignment mark at approximately 10:00, the cam sprocket points straight up at 12:00 and the idler pulley (to the right of crank shaft pulley) points approximately 11:00. They should all have a notch or mark when aligned. The short secondary belt, the crankshaft should be in the same location 10:00 and the balance shaft (to the left) should be at 9:00. This goes on after of course. Rotate engine 2 full revolutions and recheck marks before starting engine.

I do not have a breakdown diagram for a distributor, but just the firing orders and description of ignition system for the Dodge Colt and related models (based on Chilton manuals) if that's what you're looking for: FIRING ORDERS Fig. 1: 1990 1.8L SOHC Engines Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Rotation: clockwise

Fig. 2: 1.6L DOHC Engine Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Distributorless Ignition

Fig. 3: 2.0L Engine Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Rotation: clockwise

Fig. 4: 1.5L Engine Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Rotation: counterclockwise

Fig. 5: 1993 1.8L Engine Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Rotation: counterclockwise

Fig. 6: 2.4L Engine Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Rotation: clockwise

To avoid confusion, replace spark plug wires one at a time. --- Distributor REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Although the distributor can be removed from the engine no matter which cylinder is about to fire, it is a good idea to have number one cylinder at TDC before distributor removal. 1.5L, 1.8L, 2.4L SOHC Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect and tag the spark plug wires from the distributor cap.
3. Disconnect the distributor harness connector.
   Fig. 1: Ignition system for the 2.0L engine
   
   Fig. 2: Ignition system for the 1.5L engine
   
   Fig. 3: Ignition system for the 1992-93 1.8L engine
   
   Fig. 4: Ignition system for the 2.4L engine
   
   
4. Loosen the distributor retaining bolt and remove the distributor from the engine. To install:
   
5. Rotate the engine until No. 1 cylinder is at TDC on its compression stroke. NOTE: Be careful not to turn it to the No. 4 cylinder TDC on its compression stroke by mistake.
   
6. Align the distributor housing and gear mating marks.
   Fig. 5: Ignition system for the 1990 1.8L engine
   
   Fig. 6: Distributor installation for the 1990 1.8L engine
   
   Fig. 7: Distributor installation for the 1992-93 1.8L engine
   
   
7. Install the distributor into the engine, while aligning the fine cut (groove or projection) on the distributor flange with the center of the distributor mounting stud.
8. Install and tighten the distributor retaining bolt.
9. Reconnect the distributor harness connector.
   Fig. 8: Distributor installation for the 2.4L engine
   
   Fig. 9: Distributor installation for the 1.5L engine
   
   Fig. 10: Distributor installation for the 2.0L engine
   
   
10. Install the distributor cap and spark plug wires.
11. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Hi,
5-W 30 or 10- W 30 will be fine. Any brand you choose.
Good Luck ,
Wayne

You need Compression, spark and fuel for it to fire, check all the spark plug leads if you haven't replaced them with new ones, check the spark plug gap to make sure that it is right, if you haven't moved the timing it should still be ok. Not sure if it is fuel injected or not but if not check the distributor cap and coil lead too. If it has a carburettor take off the air cleaner and squirt some fuel down the throat of the carbi and try to start it, if it fires you have a fuel blockage somewhere, check that your fuel filter has not blocked up hope this helps

It is possible that the distributor cap and/or rotor are faulty. They are not very expensive, easy to replace and will allow the engine to run more efficient. This is a way to visually test the coil to make sure it is good. Remove the coil wire at the distributor and place it against the engine block so the spark can find a good ground. Have someone turn over the engine for only a second or two and keep clear of the wire. You will be able to see how powerful the spark is or if it is bad. Please rate me on this answer.

ON A 92 MODEL CAR IT DOESN'T HAVE A CHOKE SO YOU ARE GOING THE RIGHT WAY BY LOOKING AT THE TEMP SENSOR. THE CHOKE ON A FUEL INJECTION MOTOR WORK THROUGH FUEL TRIMS. IN OTHER WORDS MORE FUEL THEN AIR THAT WOULD BE A RICH CONDITION THATS CHOKING THE CAR. SO IF YOU HAVE CHANGED THE TEMP SENSOR TO THE COMPUTER YOU MUST CHECK TO SEE IF IT IS WORKING RIGHT, TO DO THAT PLUG A COMPUTER IN AND READ DATA,IT SHOULD READ AT COLD START UP OUTSIDE TEMP.ONE MORE THING MAKE SURE THE VOLTAGE IS GOOD ON VEH BECAUSE IT TAKES LESS VOLTAGE WARM THEN COLD.AND IT WILL TURN OVER FASTER WARM. IF SO REPLACE THE BATTERY TO A HIGHER COLD CRANKING AMP BATTERY. HOPE THIS HELPS YOU TIM

check tranny fluid if thats not it look for another tranny

Possible! Is the rotor turning when cranked over. You may have a broken scroll pin on bottom gear of distibutor.

P1191 & P1193: Manufacturer control fuel air metering.
P1607: Manufacturer control auxiliary inputs and outputs

check if there s aire in the cooling syteme

It sounds like the diagnosis was thorough, thanks for the detail.
> Tried new spark plugs
While dealing with a 2-year old original set of dying ignition leads on a '95 Saturn we bought new and qualifies as the worst car we ever owned, I also replaced all of the plugs with my preferred brand, Bosch platinum, and was rewarded with a more severe miss on one cylinder. Pulling all plugs again, I found one of them had lost its thin platinum wire (it slipped in the insulator) which ended up sitting on the ground contact. If, in your case, the miss was in #4 before and after all the tests and changes were done and the miss was still in #4, I doubt if that is the problem.
As far as the economics of spending that money on a car 16-17 years old - that's a tough call and would depend (for me) on the overall condition of the in- and outside, the fuel economy the car can deliver and finally, the total mileage. If the car was in fair condition (no structural rust or disintegrating interior), mileage under 150K, I'd probably go for it since replacing it with a used vehicle would leave you with possibly unknown problems and buying new is a decision that only you can make and very dependent on what you can best afford, how secure your employment, and all those other nagging factors. Until my age and physical condition became factors, I did my own repairs after having really bad experience with 'professionals.' This isn't for everyone and requires some mechanical skills, a few specialized tools, a good service manual (I like Haynes), either being self-employed or having two weeks of vacation available (to do it with care) and a modicum of patience. I had those things, and enjoyed the satisfaction of knowing that everything had been done as it should and had only one occasion to redo anything, caused by having been given the wrong gasket set.