1988 Dodge Ramcharger - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

hello u'd need a proper manual for this in my o pinion like there are plenty of dealers and online shops that deal in those.. you can get some free at reliable-store and it;s actually really illustrative

You SHOULD have a circuit breaker under the hood under a black plastic cover, that has fuses and circuit breakers inside. God bless your efforts.

on you throttle body you will find the tps ( throttle position sensor) there is waires held on by clip remove the clip, then there will be 2 screws one on each side(#10) they are star bit. un screw them and replace the pts. this is a common problem with dodge rams from 1986 threw 1990 dodge was a ware of the problem and changed how the sensor was made.

Diluted oil due to leaky injector can cause this, also bad oil pump, but most often bad bearings. Oil pump has a bypass relief valve that can get stuck and result in low pressure. Change to good quality clean oil and filter, and use a mechanical oil pressure gauge to insure accurate readings before you tear things down.

Check hose going to M.A.P. sensor not broken both ends or cracked.

if automatic possible need filter/fluid changed--and or torque converter problem-- if stick clutch or fly wheel needs resurfacing

gUEL PUMP OR CLOGGED FILTER.

Usually on side of throttle body . 2 or 3 torx screws hold it on.

I found a vacuum leak on the carb base gasket by spraying carb cleaner around it. Then it would stay running while spraying. I replaced gasket but it still run and died. I was told to clear all codes in the computer by disconnecting the battery cables from the battery then hook the pos and neg cables together for half an hour. Then I hooked the battery back up and started it up and it ran better than ever. I guess unless you clear the codes the computer reads theres still a problem even though you fixed it.

I have a 1988 dodge ram charger with a 318 motor with throttle body. It runs really good when I start it up and drive it for about a half of an hour.
But after that when I step on the throttle a little bit, it hesitates. If I let off a little bit, it will go or if I really step on it, it will go also, but if I just hold it there, it really hesitates If I stop, the idle jumps up and down so much it causes itself to stall. It seems to only do this at low RPM's. If the RPM's are higher it's fine

CHECK YOUR BULB AND IF THERE IS CURRENT COMING THROUGH TO IT

If you need the oem air filter housing, you should be able to find one in a salvage yard.

im not shure on what stile distributor they have but the problem could be in the module on it

hi try changing fuel fiter & check fuel lines if probblem still there u may have a weak pump also check pick up line from tank to pump also check fuel cap venting good luck

you can try blocking the radiator with cardboard. the heat comes from your coolant so if its not producing enough heat you either are not getting the truck hot enough or you have a clogged heater core.

Hello and welcome to FixYa!
Is your alternator good? Everything works fine when directed to the battery right? A faulty alternator can be a hindrance on current supply that's why the electrical fails. You may want to start on replacing the alternator. Everything seems to be good but the alternator.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Yes it dose....here it is...

you need to check and see if the auto shut down relay is working,with the key on test the dark green/black wire at each injector there should be a constent 12 volt at each wire. if not check the auto shut down relay the relay is located on the left inner finder.



4 wires on the relay the red wire should be 12 volt all the time if not check the fusable link at the positive battery post........the dark blue/black wire is the output wire it goes to a splice and then to the fuel injectors and ignation coil and fuel pump relay and to the power supply for the ECM.....the dark blue wire goes to the ECM and is the computer controled ground circuit for the relay if you ground this wire the relay should close ( click ) and send power threw the dark blue/wire.......the dark blue yellow wire goes to the diag. conector.

with the key on there should be 12 volt at the fuel injectors if not check for 12 volt to the red wire on the ASD relay if there is power at the red wire and none at the injectors try grounding the blue wire if still no power to the injectors then replace the relay if when you ground the blue wire you then have power to the injectors get back with me and i will look up the test to test the ECM circuit....good luck

It sounds like the fuel pickup inside the fuel tank may have come loose or something. There is a sock or pickup "foot" that is what lies on the bottom of the tank to draw fuel from, if it comes loose then the pickup tube (kind of like a big straw" ends slightly before the bottom of the tank and when you turn you make the fuel slosh to the other side of the tank, it sucks air and the fuel presure drops below the normal threshhold and the engine dies.

Repair requires the removal of the fuel pickup module from the fuel tank and either replacing the module or the sock (sometimes called a foot)

good luck, your asking alot. Check for spark,fuel or seek a persons hands on to diagnose.