20 Most Recent 1987 Dodge Ram 50 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Bad news more than likely you warped the head and blew the head gasket. remove the head (the one with no compression) take to a large parts store or machine shop and have them check it for warp. If it a warped steel head they can plane it down. If its a warped almum. head you might want to get a new or good used one. save yourself some over heading problems down the road.

Ok, I know this one. lower right side of the instrument cluster, you will find a small 2 inch by 1 inch "pop out" little rectangle in the dash. this can be popped out with a screw driver.Look inside there and you will see a small screw for removing the front of the dash cluster and next to that is a little switch. If your EGR light is on all the time, pushthis little switch to the right. Now start your Ram 50. Check EGR light should come on for a moment and then go off.

Finding your EGR valve: I can tell you is was difficult for me. I had the 2.6 engine vin E. The part number for the 2.6 EGR valve is MD 110501 Dodge dealer will notbe able to get the part any more. BUT go to a Mitsubishi dealer and ask for thepart you need.....:) There ya go..

Check the pickup coil and rotor inside of the distrubutor and test the ignition coil.

It could be your wires, solenoid or battery might not have enough to turn motor. Of it can be the starter gear is stuck on the fyl wheel check all of these. Take a ohms reader through everything. This is what i did to my pickup and i ound the problem by checking every thing out.

• Hi, I can help.
• To remove the water pump follow these directions.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise until all the timing marks align. This sets piston #1 at Top Dead Center compression. Once set in this position, the motor position must not be disturbed during repairs.
3. Drain the cooling system.
4. Remove the upper radiator shroud.
5. Loosen the power steering pump and remove the belt.
6. Remove the air conditioner compressor belt tensioner and remove the belt.
7. Loosen the alternator and remove the drive belt.
8. Remove the cooling fan and clutch assembly.
9. Remove the water pump pulley.
10. Remove the center bolt holding the crankshaft pulleys. The bolt will be tight.
11. Remove the smaller pulley bolt and remove the power steering pulley and the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft.
12. Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers.
13. Confirm that all the timing marks align and that the engine is at Top Dead Center compression on cylinder #1.
14. Loosen and remove the timing belt adjuster.
15. Use chalk or a crayon to mark the direction of rotation on the timing belt. Carefully remove the timing belt from the pulleys.
16. Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the water pump.
17. Remove the water pump mounting bolts and remove the alternator bracket.

• The water pump bolts are of different lengths and must be re-installed in the correct position. Label or diagram each at the time of removal.

1. Carefully remove the pump from the engine block and separate the pump from the water pipe.
2. Check the pump thoroughly for damage or cracks. Turn the shaft, checking for binding or noise. If the pump was leaking coolant through the vent hole, the internal seal has failed and the pump must be replaced.
3. Now remove all the old pieces of gasket and clean things up real well.
4. Make sure to use new O'rings and gaskets.
5. Install the water pump retaining bolts in their correct holes and tighten each finger-tight.
6. Tighten the bolts in two steps to their final torque.
7. Bolt heads marked 4 tighten to 10 foot lbs.
8. Those marked with a 7 tighten to 18 foot pounds.
9. Install the water pipe, making sure the O-ring stays in position.
10. Connect the lower radiator hose to the water pump. Use a new hose clamp if necessary.
11. Install the timing belt onto the crankshaft sprocket, the oil pump sprocket and the camshaft sprocket in that order. Make certain there is no slack between the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump or between the oil pump sprocket and the camshaft sprocket.
12. Loosen the tensioner mounting bolts. Allow the tensioner to move against the belt under its spring tension; do not force or push on the tensioner.
13. Turn the crankshaft in its normal clockwise direction until the camshaft pulley has moved 2 teeth from the timing mark.
14. Carefully observe the belt and the way it fits on each sprocket. It may have lifted from the camshaft sprocket, particularly in the 10 O'clock position. If this is the case, *gently* push on the tensioner with your fingers - counterclockwise or downward - to take up the slack. Do not push on the tensioner any more than needed to seat the belt on the sprocket.
15. Tighten the lower bolt on the tensioner first, then the pivot or upper bolt. The order is important; if done incorrectly, the belt will not be under the correct tension.
16. Install the lower timing belt cover and then the upper cover. Tighten the bolts to 8 foot lbs.
17. Install the crankshaft pulley and the power steering pulley. Tighten the small pulley bolt to 19 foot lbs.
18. Tighten the crankshaft center bolt to 88 foot lbs.
19. Install the pulley and fan assembly onto the water pump. Tighten the nuts to 8 foot lbs.
20. Install the alternator drive belt and adjust it to the proper tension.
21. Install the compressor drive belt. Install the belt tensioner and adjust the belt tension.
22. Install the power steering pump drive belt and adjust it to the proper tension.
23. Install the upper radiator shroud.
24. Double check the draincock, closing it if necessary, and refill the cooling system.
25. Connect the negative battery cable.
26. Start engine and inspect for leaks.

• If you have any questions please feel free to leave them here. I will respond to them.
• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

Hi,
Check your fuses an also b sure the line going to each is securely connected to the proper outlet/connector. Did you hit a bump or something to pull the wires lose?
Sounds like you will need to check each fuse as well. Try turning the engine on - pull off the wire to the temperature sending unit and ground it to the engine - see if the gauge moves then. This can give you a good clue.
Gary @ Fix Ya

Thermostart

If adding from empty, (just installed new or used unit) put at least four or five quarts in (through dipstick tube). Then, start the engine, leave it in park on a level surface and continue filling 'till it reads full on the dipstick. After it's full put the rear on jackstands and run it in drive and let it shift gears, idle down and shut it off. Don't attempt to put it into park 'till the rear wheels stop turning. Then put it on the ground and re-check level.
If adding to a low unit or after a filter change, just fill on a level surface running till it reads full. In either case, when finished, drive it and when you return re-check level. Always check for leaks.

It's on the firewall near the steering wheel,you will see the threaded rod with a wire going through it. Just adjust the nut.and check the pedal height of the clutch.

IF the oil level is correct, it maybe that your oil pressure is too low.

I don't have a diagram for you...sorry but maybe I can explain it to you. Here we go, Take your number 1 spark plug out. That will be the front one. Make sure your coil is disconnected and have someone just breifly turn the key on and off. enough just to turn the engine over a little bit (tap it). Continue having them "tap" the engine until the piston in that cylinder comes to the very top. You can stick a screwdriver in there to feel if it's at the top but don't leave it in there as it may jam in there as the piston comes up and could cause damage. Now when you get that piston to the top of the cylinder you should be at top dead center (TDC). Look and see which post the rotor is pointing to as if the distributer cap was on. The one it is pointing at is the one the number one plug wire goes to. The firing order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 moving in a clockwise rotation. I hope this helps you and you may have already known how to get it to TDC and so forth, I just wanted to be sure. Your truck came with 2 different size engines for that year. a 2.0 and a 2.6 but both are the same as far as this procedure and fring order goes. Good luck.

Check connections at temp sensor on engine. If connections are good, then replace temp sensor. Easy fix.

timing chain not belt. theres also counter balance shaft chain up front of the timing chain.

blue smoke is from unburned gasoline