2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 2WD - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

the linkages shifter to box must be good PRNDL, for sure R , D and L. all must to go detent. under stand what detent means? if N is in the actual N detent and fails to 1st gear the shift valve is bad or the clutch pack1st is stuck. the servo for 1st clutch is jammed. that is a bad transmission. N and R are hard failed. lots of miles on it I bet, 200k+ miles.

The switch is sold incorporated with the shift lever only sorry to say

My personal suggestion would be to go for these repair catalogs. I know this website www.reliable-store.com that i used to buy them from, and they sold online it was very good manual. Go ahead, I bet.

check with code scanner for fault code/or bring to garage to scan for fault code

You can get guide from many sites.. i know few like reliable-store error codes/ fault codes, wiring diagrams, schematic diagrams, torque specs, engine info, switches functioning, assemble, disassembly, complete refurbish, repair, installation every single thing is covered within seconds u can get the access and it's totally illustrative complete

Just search google, OBD2 is an exact standard. There are diagrams there

At very cheap rates you can go for manuals from this store. Just check Secure Download DODGE RAM 1500 2500 3500 TRUCK SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL 1999...

Check codes or wires on FUEL INJECTORS after i purchased a jeep that ran same motor in my case the two wires going to fuel i jector was cracked and cuased ans issues but this with everything check when changing rotor you didnt demage and wires... Depending how its runing then shutting dowone can guess chrck wiring with TBS disconnect batt to rrset computer check all power lines to ecu if thry habe fuse link wires they may look fine but actual be disconnected.. Us proper tools to ensure power going to thr ecu.. Any fuel injection connection been disconnected in error... Meed more detail to give beyer answer.. Check code map sensor or crank sensor bit more than likely when doing tune up of the rotor something got disconnected or demaged take out spark plugs may be dirty grease oil on end of plug when installing can also cause this problem... Take your time CHECK FUEL LINE PRESEURE IF TOO LOW FUEL PUMP IS BAD... ALOT OF CHEEP tool sets on ebay to check fuel lone pressure air, fuel and spark everything else is sensors ecu engine management again possibly demaged, dirty or not gap new plug or demaged wire on ignition coil or distributor or fuel injector wires or tbs wires all meed checking and ecu power supply wires that often are FUSED LINK wires tested with gauge... Good luck i am sure you will find the issue.with patients.... Doesnt hurt to double check book in firing order year to l year can make a difference.. Even if same engine

Personally, Id suspect the voltage regulator. Depending on your vehicle, most of the alternators are self regulating. If its easy to pull, id pull the alternator and take it to Oreillys, Advance or Autozone and they will check it for free. If that checks good, then id look at a new computer.

CHECK YOUR WIRING MAY BE IS SHORTED OR CUT,SPECIALLY WHERE IS NEAR EXHAUST OR ANYWHERE TOUCHING ANYTHING,

Check that the blend door covering the heater core is opening completely. It's vacuum actuated and the vacuum is heavier when you accelerate.

You're going to have to shimmy up underneath and guide the dipstick tube back in and fasten at least one of the screws temporarily so you don't pull it out again. Its fairly easy and you shouldn't even need a jack due to the standing height of the 1500, I'm fairly broad around the chest and shoulders and i can get under my 94 which is the the same basic body stye quite easily with no jack to put back in my pesky neutral safety switch plug that occasionally likes to wiggle out

Yes there could be a build up of stuff in the fuel filter when you run the fuel level low. It could also be that the fuel gauge is not reading 100% correct either and you could be at a lower fuel level that it shows also.

Bad wire in the loom or a pin is not making contact or got bent when you plugged it back in.

Do the tests in this post http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/heat-load-test-thermostatic-expansion-valve-system/

That sounds like a bad heater core talking

Do a cleaning of fuel injectors before making that expense, then reset the ECM ,To see what happens

Could be u-joints. My wife's Pathfinder developed a vibration at highway speeds. A little research revealed the front driveshaft u-joints bearings would begin to fail causing some play. Took it in to have them inspected and sure enough- the little needle bearings were grinding down to dust. Replaced with greesable units and vibration is gone.
Certainly worth checking out.

It sounds to like a bad ground some where. Clean your ground were it is grounded to the engine. If that does not work change the ground wire.

same as all motors 25th