1985 Dodge Daytona - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I worked at a dodge dealership when these cars came out. To find the problem on your vehicle you will need to first command that on-board computer system to run a self test. by doing a self test it will retrieve any failure codes for you, the codes will point to the AREA of problem, then the real testing will begin. to activate system you will need to cycle the ignition switch to the on position (not all the way forward to crank, but just on position when the instrument panel lamps come on) cycle the ignition switch three times (on-off-on-off-on) leave it on the on position and start counting the flashing on instrument panel, I believe "CHECK ENGINE"lamp should be flashing, it will flash once for first numerical digit and twice for second number, that code will be 12 which indicates start of codes, remember to count flashes and write down in sets of two digits per codes, the last codes to flash are the end of codes 55 flashes five times twice, the code that you have retrieved i will need you to re-post and i can help you some more, feel free to ask for more info. if necessary

YES THE VERY LITTLE LOOK LIKE TO DOT

Hello Kucks.

It's been a few years since I have seen a Daytona in my shop, nice looking cars.
Not too many of them around anymore. The turbo models were fairly peppy.

I went through the list of service bulletins for the 1985 model year.
Other than a couple of hard shift issues, nothing on popping out of gear.
This can happen on almost any type of standard shift transmission.
It will need to be removed and have some worn parts replaced.
A transmission shop would be your best option if you do not have a hoist, tools or manuals.

Ask me in a comment if you would like further assistance regarding this issue.
I hope your repair goes well.
Thank you for using FixYA.
KL

Unless the pressure is zero, this is unlikely. Stry starting fluid is see if it is a fuel issue.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5821173-doesnt_car_start_gasoline_engines and let me know if you have questions.

sounds like the choke is stuck closed

Did you check to make sure fuel is getting as far as the filter? Detach the fuel line at the filter and have someone crank the engine. If fuel doesn't get to the end of the line you've got a clog somewhere else or there's a break in the fuel line.

I had the same problem. It spend a year in the shop, and when a Chrysler engineer gave a tech presentation on trouble shooting, my mechanic talked him into looking at the car. The Chrysler rep couldn't figure out the problem, so he concluded it must be the power controll module. It is located on the drivers side fenderwell. This was after my mechanic replaced all the injectors, the computer and tried several other options. Once it was fixed, it screamed. I wish I still had that car, fun to drive and great mileage.

Replace the power controll module.

The info I looked at was for 2.5L engine, non-turbo. If you have distributor, you don't have one. You may have a sensor inside distributor. Because the distributor usually works off the cam shaft, they don't call it a crank sensor. Now, if you have a coil pack, you do have a crank sensor, some I've seen are on the tranny bell-housing. Or at the cranks shaft pulley in the front. I did look at online partsbook for the engine I listed, no crank sensor listed.

Under the steering column next to the fuse box panel.

Hi Michael, I'm glad to help! When a vehicle starts to smoke, and I'm assuming you talking from the tailpipe. Its alway because there are worn parts, these parts could be anything from: Valve seals, Rings, PCV could be stop up, also on older model like yours, provided it has an auto-trans could be the modulator. This is a round cylinder looking object with a vacuum hose running to it which is attached to the side of the transmission. When it goes bad it will allow trans fluid to slip through it and it runs into the Intake Manifold and smokes out the tailpipe. As you see there are a lot of things that can cause an engine to smoke. You can check the rings by doing a "Cylinder Leak Down Test". The modulator, check it by simply unhooking the vacuum hose and if fluid runs out of the hose then replace the vacuum modulator NOTE: Provided it has a modulator. If both of these are OK, I suggest replacing the valve seals. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Michael.

you need check the valve stem seals on the cylinder head

The main logic module / computer is located in the passenger side kick panel under the dash. If I remember correctly that is the computer that controls the engine ignition. This could be your culprit.

General advice:Main fuse/relay under the hood.Bad battery connectors.Loosed main plug (under the hood).Very low on details:the engine crank?the dash shows lights?The fuses box cecked?Immo light is on (if apply)?Cheers,hope u made it,share with others.

check in trunk under rear dash

Go here to access the factory manuals, there you will get your answer.

Under vehicle, passenger side, below seating area, passenger side of fuel tank, mounted on frame in fuel line

Hi, we need you know your model, year and engine to be specific. I have some generic tips here: Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r7427423-fix_poor_idle_high_idle_stalling_fuel . These are generic instructions. If you getstuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

One is a A/C condenser, that is in front of radiator...

Yikes, did you turn the engine with the belt off? Did you hear any crunching sounds? Good, the cams will be on their marks, and the crank will be on its mark, the timing will be right. There is no mistaking it, Sometimes a cam will have 2 marks, a diamond and a dot, depending on what engine the heads are sitting on, you line up one or the other. So, with your number one piston at tdc and both cams on the mark, the belt will line up with these marks and once the tensioner is released, you should be all set. If the cams were moved and they moved free without hitting anything, you have a free running engine, which is a good thing, when the belt breaks, you coast to a stop, If it was an intermittent engine, when the belt breaks, you destroy your engine! Hope this helps.