1984 Dodge Ramcharger - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

That is an odd one. There are some idea in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+Dodge+Ram+2500+leaking+oil+from+the+heater+box ..

distributor shaft ROTOR should be POINTING on number 1 cylinder or TDC --

Seen this "mystery drain" many times. Check spark at the battery to see how big the drain is. For this simple test, blow away any (explosive) battery charging fumes. Leave one terminal on and gently touch the other to its post in fairly dark surroundings. Then try it again with the wires taken off the alternator. Your spark is now probably much less. Usually bad diodes leaking electricity backwards through the alternator cause this drain. Replace the alternator or the diode pack inside it. Some mechanics recommend actually measuring the drain.... hahaha. OK whatever.

You are going to have to trace the wiring that feeds the fuse block switch. Wire could be broken, disconnected or there could be a bad relay involved.

Sounds like vacuum leak, bad check valve, or faulty actuator. Test vacuum at actuator first if possible. Vacuum check valve is common failure part.

does your battery have a charge?? If it doesn't then get a new one.

Hi Diane, I'm glad to help! Wow this is a tuff one. Suggestion only, but you could try clamping vise grips to the metal part of the key, if you can't get to the metal part then you have no chose then to grab the plastic part. Then spray lube inside where the key is. Then take a small hammer and try tapping it out. Once out, you most likely will need to replace both the key and tumbler. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Diane.

check fuses if fuses are good check the switch if thats good check the high beem switch also check grounds and relay

low batteryrelay faulty alternatoralternator bearing block / Brokenfaulty alternator (winding burned)

You need to obtain a copy of the wiring diagrams and then tract every wire that the fuse supplies power to until you find the one that is worn and shorted to ground You can buy a used factory manual here or possibly on eBay. You can also download the manuals here for a fee.

the ignition system is eletronic ... no points

If it has a voltage regulator it should get power from the key switch to the field wire on the regulator.You should have battery voltage at the big wire on the alternator with the key off.I would check for a fuseable link between the alternator and the battery first.

Except for the windows and lighter, problem may be a bad or worn out headlamp switch. First respondant is also correct. 1st thing I'd check is condition of electric connections.

i had a similar problem with mine. try replacing the spark plugs. that seemed to do the trick for me. i no longer have any problems starting mine.

Did you test for power to the coil? Don't hot wire it as sometimes the power is a resistor wire and adding 12 volts to where it should be less is bad. The other end of the coil (negative) is going to be a signal to the module (and tach). Does it have continuity between the coil and the module?

The timing on a 318 is 6 and 12

could be a number of things from a bad oil pump, to your main bearings getting worn out. i would try putting a thicker oil in it and see if it takes care of the problem

If you have an owners manual I would look for a relay that controls the brake lights and hazards/turn signals.

I'm assuming you want to adjust the timing. There is a hold down bolt underneath it, 9/16 I think. It is holding a C shaped piece of metal that goes around the distributor case where it goes into the engine. Just loosen that. If you want to remove the distributor, take that bolt right out.
With the bolt loose you can set your timing with a light. Make sure you tighten it back up when you are done and recheck your time after that. Sometimes the distributor can be turned while tightening. Hope this helps.

check switch on floor high beam low beam i have seen wires under carpet bare