20 Most Recent 1994 Dodge Ram 2500 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

sounds like one of a couple things could be causing you problems first would be the fuel pump may be wearing out. these are a mechanical pump and should be producing over 35psi at the injection pump if you have a way to put a gauge on it you could check this under full throttle is when you want to watch it though. fuel gauges are quite inexpensive and are handy to have in the truck anyway. another thing i have seen cause this is the check valve on the discharge of the pump there is a spring and ball in the return line banjo fitting that holds the fuel pressure at a constant 35 psi when that gets weak it allows more fuel to return to the tank which will let it run at lower rpm's but not under full load. hope this helps

I don't see anything that connects the PCM with the starter circuit.Just the battery, starter, starter relay, neutral safety switch, and the key switch.Have you checked the starter and the relay for power ?

if it turns off it might be the MAP censor it happened to my 2001 dodge if not take to a Dodge dealer they will tell exactly wats wrong and how to fix it :)

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depending on the car pretty easy, remove the inside panals from the trunk area, unskrew the lights then the light cover skrews and whala it pops right out

First i would replace the sparkplugs and sparkplug wires.Then if problem still exists then have the injectors cleaned and check for a bad connection to the injectors.

Yes, it is vacuum operated. Would be your largest vacuum line(1/2 to 3/4 inch diameter hose, usually off the intake manifold or an intake runner.

THERE IS A SWITCH ON THE INJECTOR PUMP THAT CUTS FUEL OFF NEED TO MAKE SURE IT HAS POWER,

Very possible. I would check the sensor with a meter. I would say it most likely the crank shaft sensor. Some are located behind the pulley area and some are located at the back of the engine where the transmission meets the engine. Good Luck

check your battery cables to make sure they are not loose from battery, starter, and ground also check battery to make sure its properly charged and not drained

possible fan clutch issue with vechicle at operating temp shut off truck see if fan spins freely if so its bad should only make 1or 2 revolutions when spun by hand

I would replace the pump

First thing is to tear it down and make sure you mark what pistons went in what cylinders. Then you will need to take precise measurments of the cylinders, looking for "out of round' and taper. This involves the use of micrometers. If the cylinders are within wear limits then you can just install new rings and hone the cylinder walls. If they are not then the block and all the pistons need to go to the machine shop for "boring out" the cylinders and pressing on new pistons. The crankshaft will also need to be measured at the bearing surfaces. If they are within wear limits then the crank can be polished and reused, if not then it has to be replaced. All cylinder head work needs to be done by a machine shop.

After all the measurments have been taken, the right size rings, and bearings can be ordered. Rebuilding an engine is not a task that should be done by a novice.

That engine can take quite a bit of abuse(read your post again and you should find the definition of abuse). To repair the knock will entail replacement of the crank bearings and possibly a crank regrind. The knock you are hearing now is the small end bearings which are probably beyond repair. The upper part of the connecting rod where it conects to the piston is worn and can be repaired by way of replacement. However at this point a complete overhaul is called for including pistons and big-end bearings.
A compete repair would entail(at the very least) removal of the engine and replacement of the engine bearings and piston/rings. Shop around for your options, ie engine replacement, bearing repair etc and consider your own level of skill before attemting the repair. If all of this has been taken into account please leave a comment if you are in need of further assistance

REPLACE YOUR IGNITION SWITCH .THIS SWITCH IS UNDER DASH ON STEERING COLUMN.ITS NOT THE KEY SWITCH. THIS SWITCH IS BOLTED TO COLUMN .YOU HAVE AROD THAT RUNS FROM KEY SWITCH TO THIS ONE WHEN YOU TURN KEY IT PUSHES THIS ONE ON AND SENDS POWER TO STARTER ,ECT. IT A PLASTIC SWITCH ON A METAL FRAME W/WIRES PLUG-IN AND BOLTS TO STEERING COLUMN. BY THE WAY JUST REPLACED ONE ON A S-10 YESTERDAY SAME PROBLEM AN I AM A MECHANIC.