If the gas gauge of your 2007 Dodge Nitro R/T always shows a full reading, there could be a few possible causes for this issue:
Faulty fuel level sensor: The fuel level sensor is responsible for measuring the amount of fuel in the tank and sending that information to the gauge on the dashboard. If the sensor is malfunctioning or stuck in the "full" position, it will consistently display a full reading on the gas gauge.
Wiring or electrical issue: There might be a problem with the wiring or electrical connections between the fuel level sensor and the gauge. If there is a loose or damaged wire, it could prevent the accurate transmission of fuel level data to the gauge.
Instrument cluster malfunction: The problem could be with the instrument cluster itself, where the gas gauge is located. If there is a fault in the cluster's circuitry or display, it may cause the gauge to always show a full reading.
Gauge calibration issue: In some cases, the gas gauge might be improperly calibrated, resulting in it always displaying a full tank. Recalibrating the gauge might resolve the issue.
To address this problem, it is recommended to take the vehicle to a qualified mechanic or an authorized Dodge service center. They will have the necessary diagnostic tools and expertise to identify the exact cause of the issue and perform the required repairs. They may need to inspect the fuel level sensor, check the wiring connections, or evaluate the instrument cluster to resolve the problem.
It might be the Timing Cover Seal. I'd had to have one replaced on a Pontiac Grand Prix, where oil had been spitting up from it, causing the Serpentine Belt to get oily and slip. The Harmonic Balancer had to come off to get to it. The leak on my car at the time had stopped after that seal was replaces. The tire had to come off, the plastic mud guards, too. Google Search had turned up some Timing Case Cover Gaskets that ran up to around $20. Another site had turned up a Timing Cover Seal for around $7. Autozone sells those parts, too. That could be the part he had been talking about. Not positive. Perhaps the local parts store could advise further.
If you're still experiencing a cylinder 2 misfire in your 2013 Dodge Avenger 3.6L V6 after replacing the coils, spark plugs, and wires, there are a few potential causes to consider:
1. Fuel Injector Issue: A malfunctioning or clogged fuel injector can cause a misfire in a specific cylinder. Check the fuel injector for cylinder 2 and ensure it is functioning properly. It may require cleaning or replacement.
2. Compression Problem: Low compression in cylinder 2 can lead to a misfire. Perform a compression test to check the compression levels in all cylinders. If cylinder 2 shows significantly lower compression, it may indicate issues with the valves, piston rings, or cylinder head gasket.
3. Ignition Timing: Incorrect ignition timing can cause misfires. Ensure the ignition timing is set correctly according to the manufacturer's specifications.
4. Vacuum Leak: A vacuum leak near cylinder 2 can disrupt the air-fuel mixture and lead to a misfire. Inspect the vacuum lines and intake manifold for any leaks or loose connections.
5.Engine Control Module (ECM) Issue: A faulty ECM can incorrectly trigger a misfire code. Consider having the ECM scanned for any error codes or anomalies related to cylinder 2.
to drain coolant or top burp the air out (bleed does not say which)
not all cars have such a thing, and is rare , on most
my jeeps have it. its pipe plug fitting top of main aluminum water pipe.
If present the service manual on all cars made
chapter cooling how to burp all air from the loop.
no job told , parts replaced
or simple drain and fill, the job dictates all action.
the service manual says to use the special vacuum
NO SUCH bleed screw is told.(air)
the words told there are:21 steps
Evacuating or purging air from the cooling system involves the use of a pressurized air operated vacuum generator
no info generic answer --common brake light is brake light switch --fuse -wiring -----------------------horn possible fuse -wiring--faulty switch--clock spring
If both the brake lights and rear turn signals are not functioning in your 2008 Dodge Charger, there are several possible causes to consider. Here are some common issues that could lead to this problem:
1. Blown fuses: Check the fuse box for any blown fuses related to the brake lights and turn signals. A blown fuse can interrupt the circuit and prevent the lights from working. Refer to your vehicle's manual to locate the specific fuse for these functions and replace it if necessary.
2. Faulty bulbs: Inspect the bulbs in the brake lights and turn signals to see if they are burnt out or damaged. If a bulb is not working, it should be replaced. It's possible that multiple bulbs have failed simultaneously, leading to both the brake lights and turn signals not functioning.
3. Wiring issues: Check the wiring connections and harnesses for any signs of damage, loose connections, or corrosion. Faulty wiring can disrupt the electrical flow and prevent the lights from operating. Repair or replace any damaged wiring as needed.
4. Malfunctioning brake light switch: The brake light switch, located near the brake pedal, activates the brake lights when the pedal is pressed. If the switch is faulty or misaligned, it can cause the brake lights to not work. Consider having the brake light switch inspected and replaced if necessary.
5. Faulty turn signal relay: The turn signal relay controls the flashing of the turn signals. If the relay is defective, it can prevent the rear turn signals from operating. Consider replacing the turn signal relay if other potential causes have been ruled out.
If troubleshooting these common issues does not resolve the problem, it is recommended to consult a professional mechanic or authorized Dodge service center for a more accurate diagnosis and repair. They will have the expertise and necessary tools to pinpoint and fix the specific issue with your 2008 Dodge Charger's brake lights and rear turn signals.
NO ENGINE told and huge engines get the huge torque rated transmission, no VIN code for engine told.
3 engines it seems 2.5, 3.0v6 and 3.3v6.???????/?
not the Dodge AWD option right with PTU?
the tranny is old. 250,000 + miles??????
the limpmode is to prevent super expensive damage to the trannys
clutch packs, ( VAST TCM DO THAT EVEN NOW)
it is saving its bacon, and also prevents car being dead, all gears slip.... a moving cars is far better than any dead car.!
ymmv
for sure. now you know the why
but 1992 is, old and HAS A TCM, and said TCM did this.
THE TCM IS 100% SEPARATE BOX.
back then we do not have OBD2 we had OBD1 and scan tools super
31 years old.,hard to find now Dodge only tools.DRB 1 UP
join a old Dodge real form
and find posters that know how to get the 1992 TCM to do flash codes
if can.
all 3 ENGINES ARE tcm SHIFTED (BEST I CAN TELL)
ECU DTC ERRORS ARE JUST KEY'D 3 TIMES TRICK GOOGLE IT
BUT DOES NOT DO TCM SORRY THE KEY TRICK IS ECU ONLY
ENGINE ONLY THAT.
it. many cars that year 3 transmission choices then new car.
and they are not the same at all
the 3.3L v6 has TCM and is PnP plug and play.
3,3L has 41TE box. with above TCM
see what I did here,is lookup engine see parts for tranny and see TCM there and name of box. all for free, AND I READ SM
SERVICE MANUAL 1992 THIS VAN
ok the 4banger has TCM too but is 30TE box 3speed not 4.
known speed is a huge help.
so google dodge caravan 1992, 41TE blink flash codes?
I SEE NONE.
ECU FAULT CODES ARE EASY TO GET. KEY TRICK.
GETTING 1992 TCM DTC ERRORS IS NOT EASY NOW
ABOUT 1996 MANY CARS ALLOWED OBD2 TO SEE BOTH ECU AND PCM AS ONE DEVICE,
THEY WERE E SERIAL LINKED THEN
BUT NOT IN 1992 .
THE KEY ON TRICK DOES WORK FOR ECU AND TRANSMISSION REAR vss1 SPEED SENSOR DEAD. JUST 1 SENSOR TAIL OF BOX
FACTOID #1
OBD1 FOR DODGE WILL NEVER WORK ON FORD OR GM.
OR THE REVERSE TOO DOES NOT WORK
THE SLOG OF ODB1 PAIN.
FINDING SCAN TOOLS THIS OLD IS NOT EASY
OR EVEN A SHOP THAT HAS OBD1 DODGE TOOLS AT HAND AND NOT LONG AGO WRECKED FROM 31 YEARS OF USE.
SORRY I CAN NOT FIND OBD1 TOOLS SOLD 2023.
FOR SURE TCM VERSIONS.
RE-SEAT THE TRANNY MAIN CONNECTOR DOWN UNDER YET
CHECK LEVELS OF ATF
THE DEALER USED DRB TOOLS WITH TCM PLUG-INS
HERE IS THE HISTORY ON DRB
CLEAR AS DAY AND GOOD AND VERY HARD TO FIND SHOPS WITH IT, BUT DO ASK THEM.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-dakota-tech/435783-chrysler-drb-scan-tool-and-mopar-diagnostic-system-overview-and-faq.html
WITH
SuperCard1:
HVAC QUESTION, ???? A./C not cold, can we have problem told first and not a blind out of context hunt?
HVAC
IN THE DASH IS THE EVAP CORE
AND I BET IT IS NOT BAD. UNLESS COMPRESSOR EXPLODED IN SIDE.
dodge says
the variable A/C orifice tube provides improved A/C system cooling during city driving and when under heavy loads by controlling refrigerant flow through the two parallel flow paths integral to the orifice tube. Under normal loads, the refrigerant flows through the inlet filter screen, the fixed and variable ports and both metering orifices. As the load on the A/C system increases, the temperature of the refrigerant leaving the A/C condenser increases, which causes the bi-metal coil to expand and restrict the flow of refrigerant through the variable port of the tube. Restricting the flow of refrigerant through the variable port and its orifice provides a greater pressure differential between the high and low pressure sides of the A/C system, resulting in colder refrigerant vapor traveling through the A/C evaporator to help remove the heat from the conditioned air flowing into the passenger compartment.The A/C orifice tube is not serviceable and the A/C liquid line must be replaced if the orifice tube is found inoperative
I am assuming this code started with the letter P (P1793). This code refers to the Transmission so the catalytic converter replacement will have no effect on this code. There is an issue with a signal from a sensor on the transmission. You will need to take this to a good mechanic as access to these sensors can be difficult to get to.
The shift interlock solenoid in a 2014 Dodge Ram 1500 is typically located on the transmission shifter assembly. It is responsible for preventing the shifter from being moved out of the "Park" position unless the brake pedal is pressed.
To access the shift interlock solenoid, you may need to remove the center console or a portion of the console to reach the shifter assembly. The exact location can vary depending on the specific trim level and configuration of the vehicle.
It's important to note that working on the shift interlock solenoid or any components related to the transmission system requires technical knowledge and expertise. If you're not familiar with automotive repairs, it's recommended to consult a qualified mechanic or refer to the vehicle's service manual for specific instructions and precautions.
This is most likely the mechanism inside the air blower unit has a problem. There is a mechanical flap inside the unit that changes the air flow direction. The part that move this flap may have failed. Sadly this is one of those jobs. It is up behind the centre of the dashboard so you might need to remove the centre console or some of the dashboard to get to it. A lot of work.
Here is a general vacuum hose and line placement diagram for a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4:
1. The vacuum line from the engine intake manifold should be connected to the vacuum reservoir tank. 2. The vacuum line from the vacuum reservoir tank should be connected to the vacuum actuator on the front axle. 3. The vacuum line from the vacuum actuator on the front axle should be connected to the transfer case. 4. The vacuum line from the transfer case should be connected to the vacuum actuator on the rear axle. 5. The vacuum line from the vacuum actuator on the rear axle should be connected to the vacuum reservoir tank.
It is important to note that the specific placement and routing of vacuum hoses and lines can vary depending on the make and model of your Dodge Ram 1500, as well as any modifications that may have been made to the vehicle. It is always recommended to refer to the manufacturer's instructions or a repair manual specific to your vehicle for accurate information. Additionally, it may be helpful to take pictures or label the hoses and lines before removing them to ensure proper reinstallation.
magnum? a RAM 1500 pickup, i guess magnum is engine jargon?
well it is not really stuck in reverse (well unless is. blush)
but 99%^ of the time that means the clutch is 100% dead.
learn this trick
have a buddy wiggle the truck on say flat garage floor, (no brakes set)
jug it forward and reverse the whole car and you wiggle the shift lever to N
see it does N.
the box has hard cut gears and synchro dogs. and if under pressure huge
the shifter level sticks. all manuals do that, with a dead clutch.
can do it.
do not gorrilla the shift lever or wreck the gear dog forks inside. box.
fix the clutch.
the clutch actuator is dead,. never replace any clutch first
gee my 4wd is 15 hard hours labor to that and I never do , unless MUST/
the best plan on any 22 year old car/clutch is a
new master cylinder and slave kit. first
and learn now to bleed, clutch lines, that are a horror to do .
ok? the fluid in the lines run up/down verically
and the air bubble float up,. making bleeding super hard and confusing to many
. there are tools that make this easy , Pressure bleeding kits.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+1500+pickup,3.9l+v6,1366578,transmission-manual,clutch+master+&+slave+cylinder+assembly,10290
we make sure this is working first. 100% full stroke or the clutch is useless.
and locked up fully engaged.
at the least it must be bled fully. off all air.
