1985 Dodge Pickup 4WD - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity, wrong type of 'which -Witch', not the pointy hat lady with the broomstick. Question moved from Heating category to Dodge. 'coal'? Your Dodge has coal fired boiler? What type of filter, oil, engine air filter, cabin air filter, gasoline, water filter, washer fluid filter?

You have power to the switch so the fuse is good. Next is to check the switch. The contacts often fail and need to be replaced. If possible take the known good switch from the other window and temporarily connect it to the problem window and test it. If that does the trick you know you need a new switch. There may also be a relay in the circuit. Do the same swap procedure to test that relay. Good Luck!!!!!

I would say not as most flasher cans just flash and the required circuit to either left or right is connected when you select left or right. Recheck the LHR bulb is in a clean socket and is tight and the earth wire is connected correctly to a clean earth point. The problem is the completion of the circuit in the LHR bulb and holder and wiring.

The cause of your Ford Ranger hesitating while pressing the gas pedal can be the fuel filter, change it first since its the cheapest, next would be bad spark plug boots cracked, or spark plug gaps to wide, then lastly dirty fuel injectors.-------------------------------------------autel ds708

check the positive wire from coil, see if there is spark, or try to get some wire put it into positive battery and the one end into positive of coil, then try to start again and if there is spark now, dont try dis if your car have computer box.

See if this helps.Supposedly there are 4 different diagrams for that truck.I could only find one.

Don't you mean lpg. check the timing

i belive the problem is in your steering colum where your signal switch is remove the steering wheel and check the switch if thats not it then you have 2 bare wires touching

It's broken or missing parts. Get a new one.

After it dies, check the spark and make sure it is able to jump at least a 1/4 or better gap and has "snap" to it, not orange and "fluffy". Also if no spark, check the ignition box on the fender. Both coil and ign box can misbehave if they have an internal problem after they get hot. If you have a lean burn computer on the air cleaner tap on it lightly with a wrench etc. (sounds crude but it works) If the engine stutters or changes how it idles, the computer is bad. (one that old can be converted to older ignition system but check emissions regulations before doing that.If ignition system is working, make sure that the carb is not flooding and that fuel pressure is around 5-7psi.at the carb inlet.

I had a 77 Power Wagon that did the same thing all the time. It turned out to be the coil..

if you were in 4wd on a dry pavement the chain that goes to the transfer case probably got bound up on itself. try to reverse a few feet and see if that lets it pop back out.

All components heat up to some degree when you use them however driving short distances should not hurt your transfer case unless you have engaged in 4wd full time instead of part time or awd mode.The 4wd full time mode is for wet or snowy roads or mud. Awd mode is good for any condition and so is 2wd mode.

I would say that you have a loose wire. Check all your wires and make sure none is loose. Make sure your fuses are pushed in all the way. You will need a voltage reader to find out what wire it is.

Can you raise the revs by gently pressing the pedal? That will largely eliminate the electrics or will it just not rev at all? Is the idling affected? Have you checked that the accelerator pump is working as it should, Is the mixture correct? (What did you turn up, the idle speed or the mixture? and is the timing advance working as it should? Is the fuel pump working properly? Make sure it's pumping enough fuel. Failing all that it could be contaminated fuel or a blockage.
You say the carb is getting plenty of gas but it sounds like fuel starvation or excessive richness if you can get the revs up eventually.
Disconnect the fuel pipe to the carb, put it in a deep bowl as you dont want it splashing all over the place and get someone to crank it. It should provide a steady good flow of fuel. Finally check all vacuum hoses/pipes for leaks

drain the tank disconnect wires and hose and eather lower the tank by removing the tank straps or raise the bed up

sounds like you have a major carb problem i would rebuild it or buy one from the parts store already rebuilt ..dont forget a new fuel filter!.....also check your fuel pump for pressure and volume.

if you hear a loud click from starter it could be the motor contacts in the starter have gone bad. you will have to remove starter and have it repaired or replaced. check again to make sure that the battery is charged up on truck. also check for a loose ground wire to starter or engine block.

yes but this is gonna be alot of work no matter how you do it, you will neeed to remove your oil pan, then remove rod bearing caps,and then the main bearing caps, and also remember about your flywheel that bolts to the back of the crankshaft, so you will have to remove the transmission also,

use a timing light and go by your timing spec they shoud be located under the hood by radiator if timing is too slow it will be very sluggish and if to fast it will run better but rattle when pulling...if you have no light you could advance it just till it starts to rattle under a pull..and back it off just till it stops..old racer trick