20 Most Recent 1995 Volkswagen Jetta - Page 9 Questions & Answers

It could be a few things, first need to find out why engine light came on, then address the problems. sounds like ignition related.

Symptom Diagnosis Test 4 - Cuts-Out Or Misses ConditionPreliminary ChecksPrior to starting this symptom test routine, inspect these underhood items: All related vacuum lines for proper routing and integrity Search for any technical service bulletins related to this symptom. Test 4 Chart StepActionYesNo 1Step Description Verify Cuts-out condition Start the engine and attempt to verify the Cuts-out or misses condition. Does the engine have a cuts-out condition-Check for any stored codes. If codes are set, repair codes and retest. If no codes are set, go to Step 3.Go to Step 2. 2Step Description Condition does not exist! Inspect various underhood items that could cause an intermittent Cuts-out condition (i.e., EVAP, Fuel or Ignition system components). Were any problems located in this step-Correct the problems. Do a PCM reset and "Fuel Trim Relearn" procedure. Then verify condition is repaired.The problem is not present at this time. It may be an intermittent problem. 3Step Description Check/compare PID values Connect a Scan Tool to the test connector. Turn off all accessories. Start the engine and allow it to fully warmup. Monitor all related PIDs on the Scan Tool (i.e., ECT IAC Counts and LONGFT at idle). Were all PIDs within their normal range-Go to Step 4. Note The IAC motor should be from 5-50 counts. Watch fuel trim (%) for a large shift into the negative (-) range (due to a rich condition).One or more of the PIDs are out of range when compared to "known good" values. Make repairs to the system that is out of range, then retest for the symptom. Test 4: Cuts Out or Misses Condition (Continued)Test 4 Chart (Continued) StepActionYesNo 4Step Description Check the Ignition System Inspect the coils for signs of spark leakage at coil towers or primary connections. Check the spark output with a spark tester. Test Ignition system with an engine analyzer. Were any faults found in the Ignition system- Make repairs as needed Go to Step 5. 5Step Description Check the Fuel System Inspect the Fuel delivery system for leaks. Test the fuel pressure, quality and volume. Test the operation of the pressure regulator. Were any faults found in the Fuel system- Make repairs as needed Go to Step 6. 6Step Description Check the Exhaust System Check Exhaust system for leaks or damage. Check the Exhaust system for a restriction using the Vacuum or Pressure Gauge Test (e.g., exhaust backpressure reading should not exceed 1.5 psi at cruise speeds). Were any faults found in Exhaust System- Make repairs to the Exhaust system. Then retest the symptom. Go to Step 7. 7Step Description Check the PCV System Inspect the PCV system components for broken parts or loose connections. Test the operation of the PCV valve. Were any faults found in the PCV system-Make repairs to the PCV system. Refer to the PCV system tests. Then retest for the condition.Go to Step 8. 8Step Description Check the EVAP System Inspect for damaged or disconnected EVAP system components Check for a saturated EVAP canister. Were any faults found in the EVAP system-Make repairs to EVAP system (use the EVAP tests in this manual). Retest for the condition.Go to Step 9. 9Step Description Check the AIR system Inspect AIR system for broken parts, leaking valves or disconnected hoses (see graphic). Test the operation of Secondary AIR system. Were any faults found in the AIR system-Make repairs as needed. Refer to the Secondary AIR system tests. Retest for the condition.Go to Step 10. 10Step Description Check Engine Condition Test the engine compression. Test valve timing and timing chain condition. Check for a worn camshaft or valve train. Check for any large intake manifold leaks. Were any faults found in the Base Engine-Make repairs as needed to the Base Engine. Refer to the Base Engine tests. Then retest for the condition when repairs are completed.Go to Step 2 and repeat the tests from the beginning to locate and repair the cause of the "Cuts Out or Misses" condition.

1) Check your fluid levels 2) Check thermostat 3) Check water pump 4) if loosing fluids - Check hoses then check for leakage in head gasket 5) See if there is any cooling fluid in oil by pulling out dip stick and checking for moisture.
Hard to give much more guidance without further specifics and knowing what has been checked.

Check this procedure...

Fig. Adjusting the belt tension on a 2.0L 8 valve

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the accessory drive belts, crankshaft pulley and the timing belt cover(s).
   
2. Temporarily reinstall the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crankshaft to TDC of No. 1 piston. The mark on the camshaft sprocket should be aligned with the mark on the inner timing belt cover or the edge of the cylinder head.
   
3. With the distributor cap removed, the rotor should be pointing toward the No. 1 mark on the rim of the distributor housing. On 8 valve engines, the notch on the crankshaft pulley should align with the dot on the intermediate shaft sprocket.
   
4. Loosen the locknut on the tensioner pulley and turn the tensioner counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the timing belt.
   
5. Slide the timing belt from the sprockets.

To install:

1. Check the alignment of the timing marks. On 16 valve engines, the mark on the tooth should align with the mark on the rear belt cover.
   
2. Install the new timing belt and tension the belt so it can be twisted 90 ° at the middle of it's longest section, between the camshaft and intermediate sprockets.
   
3. Recheck the alignment of the timing marks and, if correct, turn the engine 2 full revolutions to return to TDC of No. 1 piston. Recheck belt tension and timing marks. Readjust as required. Torque the tensioner nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
   
4. Install the belt cover and accessory drive belts.
   
5. If the belt is too tight, there will be a growling noise that rises and falls with engine speed.

Hope helps.

sounds like the starter relay has shorted out, unplug it and get a replacement , if you have another one thats the same in the vehicle, trade it out and see if the motor starts, if so ,, Just get another relay

they changed the plug in 1996 so if you are trying to use an OBDII code reader, it won't work on yours. Your car most likely has the OBDI plug.

It's a blind cap next to the rear defrost push botton. it's about 3 fingers wide. You put 3 fingers under that cap, pull, and it snaps open.

the only way that the flexplate.flywheel would rub the housing is if you have something not lined up corectly, recheck your guilde pins that stick out from the trani housing and make sure they are linig up on the engine holes proporly,also recheck all your flex plate bolts and retorque them to spec. from time to time bolts come loose and they need retorqued.

did you snug the bolts befor torquing threm all down and did you torque them in a cross bolt pattern

There are two 5 speed manual transmissions possible in your vehicle. One of them is controlled by a cable. (there is no fluid) For the other one, you would put the fluid in the clutch reservoir which would be mounted just above the clutch master cylinder in the engine compartment. The clutch master cylinder is directly in front (on the engine side of the firewall) of the clutch pedal.

NOTE: If you are having to add fluid to a hydraulic clutch, you have a leak in the system that needs to be fixed. You should never have to add fluid to the clutch reservoir.

check oil and water levels and if ok then go for it .it could be a brake fluid level switch sticking or a vacumn pipe split to the ignition module .As these are about all the light covers on this age of vehcile

If your car is not crank at all when you start it, please check your starter's SOLENOID and it's incoming power. If there is incoming power but your starter is not crank the problem is the solenoid. You need to repair or replace it.
The solenoid has purpose as CONTACTOR to your starter.
So whether you are using new battery is useless since there is no power coming into your starter.
The problem should be there

Best luck.

It sounds like a heater core problem. Do you smell antifreeze?? You can bypass the heater core for summer use but will need it repaired for winter heat. Hope this helps. Koladge

first check the in-line fuse on hot line going from battery to starter if it checks out ok and the battery is full charged then it is the starter

The clutch cable for your vehicle is an auto adjust clutch cable... assuming it is using oem equipment. if you tension seems incorrect you may want to pick up this Manual adjust clutch cable http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Clutch/39/11 the auto adjust ones tend to go out and ruin your clutch. the manual adjust is a direct swap out for the auto adjust. if you need info on how to install please reference this site http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1569293

Hi I had a look at your pic and never show one of those pumps in a vw before I think the only place to get it is at a place that sells after market parts,take it to a shop and mach it up with what they have.