20 Most Recent 2006 Ford F-150 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

check your coolant. the temp is the water temp. Your radiator is out of water? you`ll burn out your water pump. Also check to see if your radiator fans are running constantly.

I would test and replace the battery in the key fob if that does not work it might have to be re synced to the car.

This is most likely an issue with the wiring harness going to the connector on your truck you need to start at the connector at the back of the truck and walk your way forward to the breakers under the hood (rarely is the 12 power on the trailer harness connecter simply fused since it is a higher current circuit, it usually uses a breaker just like your headlights). Before you do this find a copy of the wiring diagram for your truck so you know what you are looking for. Also a dead battery normally will not fully charge in the normal time span of a trailer being towed as you can typically figure over 6 hours to charge the type of battery (deep cycle) that is in a trailer.

It sounds to me like your front axle u joint or joints may be gone. I would suggest inspecting your front suspension carefully.

If it has `coil on plug' ignition,it's probably a coil.If it has coil packs, it's probably a coil pack. don-ohio (:^)

Check the fuse box located in the cab down by the drivers left knee. check all the fuses there, also consult your manual and check the fuse for the brake/tail lights. This sounds like a fuse problem more than anything. Thanks for using fixya! Good luck!

Sincerely,

JC

dealer can help you out but i think the orignal one will always be in the computer even when you change it

Pull the stater and check the teeth on the geat and also check the flywheel teeth, it sounds like the starts is not engaging the teeth of the flywheel.

The noise can mean several things. It could be a bearing noise or something worked its way into the ductwork and jammed the motor. Without this noise, Ford products had problems with the blower motor resistor and that would be another prime candidate for failure. You can take the blower motor out and have it benchchecked for electric problems.

I am a master ford tech and see this concern weekly ! more often then not its a dirty door ajar switch which is located in the latch in the door. get yourself a can of brake cleaner with a straw and a can of wd-40 from a parts store and install the straw in the brake clean now spray the latch liberally then close and open the door six to eight times,next spray the latch with the wd-40 liberally then close and open the door six to eight times, this more often then not will fix the issue. if not you may have a bad switch or a wire broken where the wires past between the body and the door (near the hinges) hope this helps

The ford dealership has my truck now, they said it was the injectors leaking and not holding gas in the fuel rail for start up, and that would also fix the sputtering problem i have. I will know for sure no later than wensday 2/4/09 if that fixes the problem. I will post the results when i get my truck back

1. Depress the side tabs and remove the overhead storage bin.
2. Remove the overhead console.
3. Disconnect the 2 overhead console electrical connectors
4. Remove the dome lamp assembly.

Check out the knob. The backside may be cracked and the knob may be slipping around the shaft instead of turning it. Some models had a problem with the indicator light for the 4x4. If the light burns out, the electric values to the transfer case shift solenoid will change. The single solenoid moves different lengths based on selector position and voltage. Check the Voltage at the transfer case with power on and someone turning the shift knob. You can get wiring diagrams through a Google search. Use terms like "2006 F150 wiring diagrams" or similar. Some are really good but be careful with "snapshot" groups as they are not strongly indexed and results contain mixed Brands and years.

Have you tried replacing the fuses entirely? Also, does the starter sound like its turning over or does it not do anything? If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/erik_3934b541f17c4e99

my 05 fx4 had the same problem... just had replace the 4x4 vacuum solenoid $20ish (the cause of the problem) under the hood behind battery and (if needed) replace the 4x4 actuator's in both hubs off the cv shaft as mine were making ratcheting sounds as well... luckly i caught before hub bearing were shot or else would have had to replace hubs as well.