20 Most Recent 2006 Ford F-150 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Have someone you know hook it to a pretty good scanner, it will bring up and test the dash cluster.

Check for power and ground at the vacuum solenoid when 4x4 is commanded. If no power/ground.... start there. If power/ground is good. check for vacuum supply to solenoid. Vacuum leaves the solenoid and splits and then goes to a vacuum diaphram at each front wheel. Check to see if both vacuum lines are attached to the diaphrams at each wheel. Make sure there are no cracks in the vacuum lines to each wheel. There are also one way check valves in each line. Make sure they are allowing a vacuum supply. If all this checks out, use a vacuum gauge and check for vacuum directly at each wheel where the lines attach to the diaphrams. If vacuum is present at each wheel, suspect one/both vacuum diaphrams leaking and the front hub assembly will have to come apart for inspection/repair

I am assuming you have a duel chain system, that being the fact, you can look it up on YouTube, its not as difficult as one would think. Good Luck

The clutch slave (or master) cylinder is failing. There's a tiny chance bleeding the clutch might help. Check the fluid level, but the clutch slave cylinder is very common in Ford trucks to fail.

Not bad. On the ground and no air tools, look at a couple hours. I can do them in 45 minutes.

O2 sensor is slow to respond. Bank 1 sensor 2.

I suggest you carefully read your owner's manual to discover the exact function of the wrench light. I recently had experience of a GM model which had two lights on the dash. One light was a management light which would illuminate if a problem occurred that would affect emissions and the other light was a wrench light that would illuminate for other management faults that wouldn't affect emissions, such as turbo overboost. The first light indicates a fault code has been recorded and diagnostic equipment would be needed to retrieve the code and extinguish the light but the second light resets with the turning off and on of the ignition. In both cases when the light is switched on it means the engine management has switched to an emergency get-you-home programme which usually results in a reduced power output - sometimes drastically reduced. Whether this describes the system used on your car or not I cannot comment about but it does sound as though you need to make friends with someone who has some know-how and electronic diagnostic equipment.

If it just happened one day, then it is possibly a forward clutch band that has broke. If it has been slipping, the the clutches are gone.

get a chiltons manual..for your vehicle.

Your blower motor resistor is burned up. 2004 2011 F150 Blower Motor Resistor

Change the resistor-unit on the firewall.

Hello, Make sure both the positive(red) and negative(black) cables are snugged tight around each post. Also, you want to read the battery and make sure it has at least 12.6 volts. If all is 100% there then I would scan the codes if you can. Codes will tell us exactly where the problem is coming from. Finally, I see this a lot with immobilizer/ security issues. If it is a security issue, the car will think its being stolen and will cut off the fuel/ignition like you are having now. You may simply need a new key or new battery in the key. Please let me know if you need further assistance on any of these subjects

cylinder 3 misfire detected,,,,,,, possible causes-- faulty spark plug number 3,,,, clogged or faulty fuel injector 3,, i would check the plug and wire first.

Requires special tools usually available from parts store loan-a-tool.

Radio I presume? Those things can be a pain.. I do not know much about that if it is a radio.. sorry.

Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay. Start the engine and let it run out of fuel. I just put rag over it and pop the fuel lines , not much comes out. Don't be smoking when you do this though.