Probably sorted by now but in case anyone gets the same problem. Check all the red fuses in the main fuse box, not just the one the handbook says it should be. The main fuse box is behind the glove box...push in the sides and the gb will drop down....the fuse box is facing you.
often times the owners manual will tell you fuse box locations and give you a diagram to which fuse controls what, and what amprage fuse youll need to replace it with. if the manual doesnt tell you which fuse controls what, then the fuse box should have a diagram somewhere close by like on a cover to the actual box. if all else fails, google "fuse box location 2001 focus" and see where it is
Do you know what a wiring diagram is for ? How to use a DVOM - digital volt ohmeter to test electrical circuit's ? None of the headlamps work ? hi or lo beams ? Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine size. Under system click on lighting , then under subsystem click on headlamps . Click the search button then the blue link . Looking at the diagram i see fuse's light switch , multifuction switch , relay's - hi & lo an the headlamp assembly's .
Now watch this video Mastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry Truglia
The good news is that you are going to most likely be able to fix this program with your 2001 Ford Focus Key Fob. Follow the steps below and you should be able to get it working again:
1) Change the battery
Batteries don't last forever, you'll be surprised how often it's just a dead battery! Click here for a video on how to open a GM key fob, or search our YouTube channel on how to change a battery for your specific year, make, and model!
2) Wipe the board
The board inside your remote can get a lot more filthy than you think! When the board is dirty it can prohibit the contact to the circuit board when you push down on the button. Simply wiping the circuit board off can make your key fob like new again!
3) The old car battery reset trick
I know this sounds absurd, but it works sometimes and is worth trying. If you exhausted all of the options above, disconnect bot terminals on your car battery for 10 minutes. Then reconnect them and try your key fob. This has worked for many people and I have no idea why. If you do, please comment below to explain.
4) Get it checked
Go to your local hardware store like AutoZone or Oreilly's. They usually have a RF frequency tester. This little gadget will let you know if your key fob is sending a signal. If it is, you may need to reprogram your key fob to your vehicle
*** THERE ARE 2 POSSIBLE PROGRAMMING PROCEDURES. ***Procedure #1Note: Obtain all remote transmitters for this vehicle.
Note: Do not depress the brake pedal during procedure.
Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 10 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming mode. (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.)
Within 20 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. If you only have one remote then skip to step 4.
Within 20 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 3. For all other remotes.
Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.
Procedure #2Note: Obtain all remote transmitters for this vehicle.1Fasten seat belts and close all doors.
Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 4 times within 6 seconds, with the 4th time ending in RUN. (Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.)
Turn ignition to OFF. Acoustic signal will sound and system warning lamp will illuminate to confirm programming mode.
Within 10 seconds, press and hold any button on the first keyless remote. Wait for acoustic sound and warning lamp to flash (confirming programming) then release button on remote. Wait 2 seconds but within 10 seconds repeat step 4. For all other remotes. If you only have one remote then continue to step 5.
Turn ignition to Crank or wait 10 seconds to end programming mode.
I'd definitely check battery and battery cables. In the past, I had a vehicle where the lights at night would brighten and dim a little on their own, drove me crazy, at the moment, I can't remember if battery or battery cables, one or the other. Just my opinion.
Sometimes not getting power to start can be the simplest thing. Make sure your battery is getting good connection, take the battery cable off the battery post and clean any corrosion off between them with wire brush, pocker knife or battery post cleaning tool. When finished apply a thin layer on the post inside of battery cable, of petroleum jelly or grease (this will slow any return of corrosion). Reapply battery cables to battery post, do not over tighten. If the battery is over four years old, there’s a good chance it needs to be replaced. Do a load test at your local automotive parts store. It could be the solenoid on the starter, the part store can test that too but you’ll have to take it off most likely. If it’s none of these a automotive store can help you determine what the cause might be, I find they are generally helpful in determining the problem. Most you can borrow the tools to fix it from them, or if you don’t feel up to doing it yourself, they can recommend a local garage or dealership to fix the problem.
The ECU doesn't have anything to do with lights, windows or blower on your vehicle. Fuse or burned ground wire in those circuits if far more likely. Get a wiring diagram and find the common /fuseswires to those circuits.
?ok I see it says warning lights on // I want you to disconnect the battery cables for 15 minutes or more while doing this go to the power distribution box and disconnect the cables coming from the battery and alternator clean all cables and connectors with 4/0 === 0000 steel wool from a hardware store or home depot Lowe's ETC DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH ON ANYTHING THIS WILL TAKE OFF THE METAL AND LEAD FrOM THE BATTERY POST AND ALL CONNECTIONS RESULTING IN POOR CONTACT AND TIGHTNESS NEVER EVER USE THESE THE 0000 STEEL WOOL AND PB BLASTER//LIQUID WRENCH WD40 WILL GET EVERYTHING CLEAN WITHOUT RIPPING THE METALS UP OKAY NOW THAT BEING SAID LET'S MOVE ON ///////(NEXT) RECONNECT THE POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX CABLE NICE AND TIGHT MAKING SURE ALL THE EYELETS ARE FLUSH AGAINST EACH OTHER AND TIGHT AROUND THE BOX STUD STICKING OUT WHERE THEY CAME FROM BEFORE WHEN YOU TOOK THEM OFF OK NOW GET OUT YOUR REMOTE KEY FOB AND HAVE IT READY FOR CONNECTING THE BATTERY CABLES THE ALARM WILL SOUND AND YOU MUST DISABLE IT BY PRESSING YOUR BUTTON CONTINUE TO TIGHTEN UP THE BATTERY CABLES AGAIN MAKING SURE THEY ARE TIGHT AND WILL NOT MOVE IF YOU TRY TO TURN THE CABLES BY HAND///// NEXT I WANT YOU TO GET IN THE CAR PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION AND ONLY TURN IT TO GET THE DASH LIGHTS/////EX.OIL,BATTERY ABS AIRBAG CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO COME ON AND OBSERVE THEM AS THEY GO OUT////// THIS IS THE SELF TEST MODE FOR THE OBD2 SYSTEM TO CHECK ITSELF OUT THAT ALL SENSORS ARE FUNCTIONING IF THERE'S A PROBLEM A LIGHT ASSOCIATED WITH THE PROBLEM WILL STAY LIT AND YOU MUST HAVE THAT CODE READ SO YOU KNOW WHERE THE PROBLEM IS IF NO LIGHTS ARE ON NOW TURN THE KEY AND START THE CAR AND GO FOR A DRIVE IF THE PROBLEM HAPPENS AGAIN HAVE THE CODES READ AT AN AUTO PARTS IF IT DOESN'T THAT'S GOOD AND IT'S WHAT I THOUGHT IT WAS AND THAT IS////\\\\\ THE CONNECTIONS FOR POWER FROM THE BATTERY AND THE POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX WERE DIRTY OR CORRODED AND THIS BLOCKS ELECTRICAL CURRENT FROM PASSING THROUGH YEAH SOME COULD GET THROUGH BUT MAYBE NOT ENOUGH RESULTING IN SOME THINGS NOT WORKING FROM POOR VOLTAGE//////\\\\\\\NEXT IF THE SAME THING HAPPENS AS FAR AS THE WINDOWS DOOR LOCKS MIRRORS ETC. TAKE THE DOOR PANEL OFF IF YOU HAVE A KEY PAD CHECK THOSE WIRES IF THEY ARE INTACT NOW MOVE TO THE DRIVER DOOR MODULE AND THE MASTER WINDOW SWITCH AND AGAIN CLEAN THE CONNECTIONS AND EVERYTHING SHOULD STAR WORKING IF NOT 1 OR BOTH ARE BAD BUT I THINK THIS IS AGAIN A CONTACT // CONNECTION PROBLEM THERE ARE OTHER CIRCUITS THAT RUN THROUGH THE DRIVER DOOR MODULE AND IF I BREAK IN ONE HAS OCCURRED IT COULD AFFECT MANY THINGS SO THE MODULE CONTROLS KEYLESS ENTRY DOOR LOCKS ALARM AND WINDOWS ////THE POWER TO THE MASTER WINDOW SWITCH COMES THROUGH THIS MODULE THEN TO THE WINDOW SWITCH SO I DON'T KNOW WHAT A 51PLATE IS BUT SO MANY THINGS AT THE S AS ME TIME TELL ME THAT THERE'S A CONNECTION PROBLEM HERE AND PLEASE UNDERSTAND THAT I'M NOT THERE SO I CAN ONLY BE GUIDED BY WHAT YOU SAY SO IF THERE'S STILL PROBLEMS POST BACK AND BE VERY SPECIFIC IN YOUR POST AS TO WHAT IS AND ISN'T HAPPENING AND SO YOU KNOW THIS INFO IS COMING FROM A TAXI MECHANIC WITH 50 YEARS EXPERIENCE IN NYC.SO WHAT I ASKED YOU TO DO WAS ELIMINATE SOME POSSIBILITIES FIRST AND ALSO TEACH YOU WHAT THE SELF TEST MODE IS FOR TROUBLE CODES SO IF A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON WE NOW KNOW IT IS A CURRENT PROBLEM THAT IS AFFECTING YOUR VEHICLE NOT A BUNCH OF OLDER CODES SO GOOD LUCK WITH AND ENJOY LEARNING WRITE EVERYTHING DOWN THAT YOU DID SO YOU CAN MOVE ON TO THE NEXT LEVEL OF INVESTIGATING WHAT'S WRONG HERE/////// I TOOK THE TIME TO POST THIS SUPER LONG THREAD TO HELP YOU AND OTHERS WHO MAY COME ACROSS THIS POST WITH THE SAME PROBLEMS THIS WAS MY LUNCH HOUR AND I'M GOING BACK TO A TRANSMISSION REBUILD AND INSTALLATION THE VEHICLE MUST BE READY FOR 4AM SO ONCE AGAIN GOOD LUCK STEPHEN