1995 Ford F250 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

should be on the top of the trannie, some have them internall yin the Rear end, very few but some do

Get this manual online at www.reliable-store.com and get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc, along with wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, torque specs, error codes, everything.

Did you check the fuel pressure? Also I have found the fuel pressure regulator screen getting gunked up to cause random shut off while driving. Prior to that it would start losing mileage and feeling sluggish.

I think you should go for manual first after that it would be easy for you to solve your problem. I had visited this site past 2 months before for my vehicle and find it quite helpful may be you will also get something useful here Ford F150 F250 SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL 1993 2003 DOWNLOAD

Did you put the ECM in from a donor vehicle? (Used). It might have to be reflashed as it sounds like compatibility issues. Make sure the ECM has the EXACT SAME NUMBERS in the ID as your previous ECM. If not, then you will need to get the exact match to get rid of the gremlins.

check the brake wire in the vehicle plug for power when the brake is applied

Next to the thermostat housing which is where the top radiator hose connects to the engine.

I would check to see if the hood release moves when the inside lever is pulled then pushed, if not the cable and latch mechanism may need lubrication or be broken.

Can't tell you that without an engine size.

First eliminate all vacuum or air leaks in the system (very important) . You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

It doesn't have one. The hall effect sensor in the distributor does that job.

You likely have a bad canister vent valve.

You likely have a leak in either the clutch master or slave and you need to resolve that before attempting to bleed. Bleeding on that vehicle can be very, very difficult because the bleeder is at the bottom and the air will tend to rise to the top.

I would start with a new switch. If the rear tank is showing full and you know the tank is empty it could be a bad ground.

Thats how I have done it on 2006 250. No C clamp.

Should be in the fuse box near the battery.

Has to be the relay switch because the pump is already working for the rear tank. Right?

someone put something into the fill area, carrot etc.run wire down each

The ignition switch turns on the fuel pump as well as the ignition system. You need to replace the ignition switch

Check vehicle for a vacuum leak the intake gasket is a common leak on that vehicle