20 Most Recent 2000 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab - Page 2 Questions & Answers

probly need tuneup..new coil..plugwires..distcap etc.

John, as Dan H. stated look for pressure switch fluid in/on wires, also look for exhaust leak between the cylinder head and exhaust manifold, flange gasket, etc. which commonly can through the code P1195 and can cause the O2 to read a little out of wack. "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."

Check crank shaft sensor.

2000 Dodge Dakota Service Repair Factory Manual INSTANT DOWNLOAD I hope your problem will be solved :)

Just a second thought. With the starter relay unplugged, You can use a testlight and check for voltage at terminal 86, if voltage with key out, I agree with Arnie, something wrong with switch or wiring connector or that circuit is shorted to voltage. I didn't kno litre size of engine or if it mattered?

Depending on what model there are also relays that could be bad. What model is the vehicle?

Then I would suspect the motor or switch is at fault. The fuse operates more than a single window and as the passenger window is working then i won't be the fuse.

Here you go watch this video ! 2003 Dodge Dakota 4 7 v8 spark plug change Watch a couple other ones also .

Is the voltage reaching the computer within stated parameters? Current flow is dependent on voltage and as the voltage goes up so does the current thru a circuit. And excessive current can cause motors and electronic components to burn up and fail from overheating. The only other thing I can think of is some short circuit that is killing your ecm..Did the computer die while you were driving? If so, what did you do before the unit went dead - what did you turn on, etc? Something triggered the fatality.

Have your alternator checked, seems like it is not charging

It's a factory assembly. If you're trying to save $$ try "prime choice" auto parts. They sell ridiculously cheap side view mirrors. Check it out.

The "knucle" you are describing (The part with the U-joint built into it) is called the Intermediate Shaft.
It is somewhat common for the U-joints in this shaft to get loose. It is not difficult to replace. You just remove the bolt from the steering column main shaft under the dash and remove the bolt from the steering gear assembly. The shaft will then "collapse" or "push inside of itself" to provide the clearance to remove it from both ends. The hardest part is working the rubber boot out of the way where it goes through the toe-board. The boot is actually 2 pieces and can be moved in and out of itself as well, but can be somewhat difficult to get it moved out of the way far enough to work wjth the bolts at either end.

CAUTION: When removing the intermediate shaft, extreme care must be used to make sure that the upper steering column shaft (and steering wheel) does not rotate. If this rotates around, the contact assembly for the airbag can be damaged. When I am doing these, I usually take a bungee cord and run it from the steering wheel to the brake pedal lever. This will allow a little movement to work with the shaft while at the same time, preventing the steering wheel from rotating all the way around.

Call any parts store with the eighth digit on the VIN#, they can tell you. Yours is a 3.9 V6 or a 4.7 V8.

If u r going to buy a new one, instructions will be included, if u have plans to purchase a used one from a salvage yard, they aren't too difficult to install, the worst part is removing the old glass, and that's already done! Rubber glass seal around outside should be in place, put a rope inside the seal (where the glass will go) leaving a couple of feet or more hanging out at the end. Put the glass in between seal edges as much as you can w/out forcing. W/ a helper, slowly pull the rope out as u push the glass into the seal, the rope pulls back the seal so the glass can slide into the channel. If u have any trouble, don't insert the rope all the way around, this way more of the glass will fit in the rubber channel (seal). Good luck, let me know how it works for u. countrycurt0

Probably, you might find a picture or diagram by a google of what you are looking for in google images. Otherwise, I recommend a repair manual from your auto parts store, or filepeep.com or manualslib.com

Rear brakes on Dakotas are notorious for having adjustment issues. What happens is when the rear brakes are replaced, most DIYers and repair shops do not bother to replace the hardware kit, self adjuster and adjuster lever. What happens is the star wheel on the self-adjuster wears out the ridge on the adjuster lever that is supposed to keep the rear brakes adjusted. Unless you replace these components, you will face a constant battle to keep the rear brakes adjusted and will invariably be wearing out front brakes and rotors much faster than the norm.

If it is free spinning, like no strain possible timing belt broken.

should check the manufacturers specs first

right in front on top of motor follow your top rattior hose to the motor