20 Most Recent 1990 Dodge Ram - Page 9 Questions & Answers

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My first car was a 1969 Dodge Coronet station wagon with the 318 cubic inch engine. Loved it! In my experience, the most common reason for this behavior is a bad crank or cam position sensor (assuming your car has one of those), since they tend to fail hot. Another possibility is that a dirty or worn ignition switch is supplying power to starter, but not the engine, when it gets warm. Try spraying with WD-40 to see if that helps.

OK so you installed a circuit breaker..... Good for you, hey you need a relay switch to make it work properly. Cheers

If it cranks good but won't start, make sure battery has a full charge. Have a helper crank it while you check for spark at the plugs, gasoline engine. If spark everywhere, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse. Let us know what you find? I can only help with testing. You have to do the testing.

May be a leaking or bad injector, Misfiring fm coil

Cylinder 4 reactivation controlled performance low oil pressure blocked oil passage m.d.s. solenoid open or shorted harness poor solonoid connection faulty engine controlled module

Tune up, coils and wires.

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was the truck ever in an accident especially a front or fender hit if so theres exposed wires that are hitting each other maybe from bumpy driving then it happens try to trace wire harness from either side and look for insulation breaks in the wires also there could be a leak that water is getting to the fuse box and causing the hots to jump each other then in either case when you shut down and restart everything is normal till it jumps again sometimes body shop guys drill holes to pull out dents and they end up drilling through the wires then at certain times the current can jump circuits this also applies to front hits where sharp areas gradually cut the wires and on a bump hit you get the problem

Sounds like you didn't tighten it FAR enough to bring the ring and pinion gears to a match point. If it's making noise on the power up side of the gears..... I'll not explain, you may not understand. Anyway, lift the rear tires off ground and pull the driveshaft loose from the rear. You'll find there's play/slop in the yoke when you turn it back and forth. Lock the tires and tighten the nut until there's practically no play whatsoever. Play must be just barely discernable to have enough backlash in the ring and pinion, and since your not pulling the rear plate/cover to check backlash with a piece of paper between the gears, this is the only way to do it. And if it's been loose for a long time, even with correct backlash, it will still make a bit of noise until the teeth reset to proper wear position.

Have you replaced all the bulbs for the right rear lights?

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Your ABS system may be acting up or has air in one of the lines. When you do the bleeding, be sure you use the correct procedure.

It will not open other doors or glove box

I would suspect low refrigerant. If you have access to set of hoses or gauges check it out., or buy a can of refrigerant ant parts store and add 1 can. Spend the extra and buy recharge kit with hose, gauge and refrigerant. If you don't feel confident about doing this take it to a repair shop and have it done. Go to YouTube there will several videos of how to do this. Be careful.