20 Most Recent 1989 Dodge Shadow Questions & Answers

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Sounds like the relay switch. Look in owners manual to see where it is located. I know some are under the dash and some in the engine compartment.

check to see if one of the bulbs on the headlights is burnt also check your fuses

There are a lot of other parts that have to be removed in order to get to that and the engine needs to be set to the correct #1 TDC before you remove the old belt. There is insufficient space to cover all of that in a response. If I where you I would get the Haynes Repair Manual from Auto Zone on your vehicle. It will give you the steps involved and tell you if it can be done with the motor mounted or not. It will also explain how to properly remove the head if it needs to come off at all. if that old belt is broken then the head needs to be removed and inspected by a machinist shop to make sure the valves weren't bent. The 1989 did not have no contact valves which means if it broke while the motor was running there was contact between the valves and Pistons causing other damage you will need to repair. This can be done by the DIY home mechanic but you have to do it correctly or your going to have more trouble than it is worth. I have a 1990 that is still going strong as these are tough little cars if maintained. Heck, my son put mine in a lake up to the doors once and it kept on going with no damage luckily. I love them.

May be a defective IAC, or bad connection, or improperly installed, as in lost little "O" ring when putting it on. I would also be looking at TP sensor, which I would have tested in the first place. Have you tried cycling your key to retrieve problem codes yourself? ( turn key to on,(not start) then off, then on, then off, then on again, and leave on, and count flashes of check engine light. It will flash quick, then pause, then flash again. For example: 3 flashes, pause, then 3 more is code 33. 2 flashes, pause, 5 more, is code 25. When you get 5, pause 5 more, that code 55, which means end of message. Write them down, and get back to us with what you have if any.

vacuum leak.

thermostat switch in the radiator??

Your car is running too rich, you need to lean it out so there is not so much fuel being burnt. You will also notice an acceleration increase also once you do that..
Also it may need a tune-up, you may not be burning all the gas that passes past the spark plugs causing it to compensate for what the motor needs to run.
Hope this helps! -Steve

Hello,
The car may be hard to start because it may need a normal tune-up. If the spark plugs are pretty used, they will slowly stop burning as much fuel because the spark slowly gets lesser and lesser. On a cold day the fuel is harder to ignite with a small amount of spark.
Normal idle when its cold means that your cars idle is probably too high. If you lower the idle, the choke on a cold day will keep the idle a little higher until the motor warms and then it will kick back off. If the idle is too high, it will run very rich, smothering itself with fuel, and causing the idle to stay low. When the car warms, its creating better spark when its warm, and with the idle being too high its running at a fast idle.
The car wont start sometimes can be the cause of a few things. If the ground is bad on the fuel pump, it wont make a good connection sometimes for when you turn the key on, the fuel pump dont pump the fuel to the engine. Another one can be that your accessory switch can be loose going to the fuel pump. I think its your ground though. Good luck! Hope this helps.
Have a nice day. -Steve

code 11 is just saying that it is starting the testing basically..... the problem could be 1 of 3 things the pick up in the distributor ... round black think under rotor with wire plug coming out of it,,,,,, 2. coil, 3 the black rectangular box behind battery . this is where relays are located

if you join autozone.com for free they have all the diagrams you need for your car for free

You could also have a short in the ground which goes through the sensor. Unplug the fan and the sending unit then test each side. The side going to the fan should read open to ground and the other should read closed to ground.

simple jst look on youtube
they have some great vids
also the bearings arethe same as trailer bearings 1 inner 1 outer
remember to replace the races also do be stingy or lazzy

A common cause for symptoms you describe was a faulty hall effect pick-up plate in distributor. Sits under rotor and has wire coming out side of distributor with round plug on end. I'd replace that.
About $35 at autozone.

Starving for fuel. Start by making sure the fuel pump is running. Turn the ignition on without starting the car and listen for the pump. It should run for a few seconds and then shut off if you don't start the engine. If you hear nothing, check the fuse. If the fuse is good then it can be a defective fuel pump relay, pump itself. If you hear the pump run and then shut off, suspect a clogged fuel filter, defective fuel pressure regulator, or an extremely weak fuel pump that is running but pumping no fuel. 

It should be located on the front of the transmission near the pan. It's a 3-prong switch.

brian gets hot