20 Most Recent 1984 Dodge Ram 50 Questions & Answers

On the solinoide there should have 2 thick connection lugs. 1 from battery & 1 into starter field coils. Test to see if power is going through to the field coil when turning the key to start position. If not fit a new solinoide. Make sure the solinoide is activating when turning the key first

Does it have a 2.0 or 2.6 SOHC or is it a 2.3 DSL ?

To answer your question:
After removing the plastic covers from the steering column, the special bolts that hold the switch housing must be drilled. Drill through the center of the head with abit the same size as the threaded portion. You can match that up by holding bits to the bottom of the bolt while gauging it by eye.
After drilling approximately 1/4" deep, I inserted a metal rod, smaller diameter than the new hole, tilted to put medium pressure on the inside of the hole in the "bolt head" (those are shear bolts whose heads snap off at a determined torque to make theft more difficult) then twisted the rod around while maintaining contact with the inner surface area until the head snapped off.
The lower half of the switch housing separates from the top half at this point. Take both halves to the hardware store to match thread pitch and length. I strongly recommend Allen head bolts. They will fit easier, assuming hex heads will fit at all.
I used fingernail polish as thread locker. It's just enough, without being a pita later, plus it only cost me $1.07
Pay attention to the little screws that must be removed before using force to remove the switch. There's one between the bottom, rear of the switch housing and the dash, and of course, there's one on the switch housing that you can see opposite of the side the key slides in.

it sounds like the choke isn't closing on the carburetor when the engine is cold ( more gas, less air). normally step on gas pedal once to close choke before starting. need to find someone familiar with carburetors to help as it can be technical setting it up

Sounds like inboard CV joint . If its front wheel drive !

Must be a D150 model.Are you getting cold air or none ?Is the engine reaching normal temp ?Are both heater hoses getting hot ?

below distributor

Could be your Starter (Sullinoid) Switch if the starter is not engaging... Its usually mounted to the inside wall under the hood over a wheel well close to the battery. It will typically look like a cylindrical device with two bolts sticking out of the top of it. There will be two wires/cables comming of of it going to your starter. I have had this happen in an older model Ford and used a screw driver to bridge the two bolts to check it (Not recommended as it could/ will spark) but if you do this it just takes a short touch of the the srew driver between the two posts, you dont want to hold it there for long, just enough to engage starter.if it starts then you know thats what the problem is, if not it could be an ignition switch or fuse. perform at your own risk though and make sure the srew driver has a handle on it with some thickness to the metal shaft of the driver. If you are not sure what the starter sullinoid is then do not attempt!!!

No problem here just cut out your own blank on a piece of mild steel then using a dremmel to make the groves then local locksmith or shop that has a machine then copy ,afterwards heat treat the key ,now i know iam goig to be amolished here about my heat treatment process but its easy to do .This older vehicle has no chip to worry about so a few hours work and its done

DONE:)

YOU HAVE TO REMOVE COWL GRILLE COVER, REACH THROUGH THE ACCESS HOLE AND REMOVE THE CONNECTING LINK FROM THE DRIVE LINK,AND THE PIVOT PINS BY PRYING THE BUSHING APART. REMOVE THE CONNECTING LINK THROUGH THE ACCESS HOLE. USE SLIP JOINT PLIERS TO SNAP THE LINKS AND PINS TOGETHER. HOPE THIS HELPS.

First check fuel pump fuse and relay if there good,then you have a faulty fuel pump.Replace pump

SOME OF THE RELEASE BUTTONS ARE LOCATED IN A SMALL HOLE DRILLED IN THE KEY SIDE OF THE SWITCH!

sorry i did try answering earlier but the internet went off ,Right start again --now it works with a screwdriver so its not the starter or anything and you stated that you changed the starter key set but not sure what you mean by this as iam british but iam assuming that you have changed the back electrical contact on the key ,Now what i would do here is to test for a feed to the ignition switch then turn key to start position and check for a feed to the cable that goes to the starter motor and see if when you turn the key you have power ,now if you have no power coming out of the switch then its a faulty switch and this is a fairly common problem and no skip`ping this and saying its ok you must check it first to eliminate it .Right assuming you have power then go further down the line and think does it have a relay or not for the starter circuit as lots of vehicles this age do not have a starter relay and the wire goes direct to the starter motor ,so not having ever worked on one of these vehicles i cannot say but if it does have a relay then either the relay is bad or the earth on the connection base of the relay is bad ,If you are not sure if it has a relay and you have power coming out of the back of the switch in start position then just either run this wire direct to starter motor or make your own relay under the bonnet its easy to do as most relays have the wiring diagramn on the side of them or just play with it on a car battery and find the two terminals that make it click so one side is feed from ignition switch and other side earth ,then the other two terminals are the permanant power in and then other side to the starter motor ,quite easy for you i hope but you must check the ignition switch first to make sure its supplying power when key is in start position as iam sure that this electrical switch on teh back of the steering lock is you main problem and the vehicles wiring is ok ,anyway best of british with it