1983 Dodge Challenger - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Start with the control module,I think it is located under coil on this model,You have checked the rotor to see if it is turning haven`t you?If it is not you may need a timing chain.

you need to update the wiring on the rear on place diodes in the circuir to keep them from backfeeding.

The magic number is 55 ft. lbs, according to Motor. Hope this helps.

ignition control module possibly?

the cylindrical part may be a cruse control servo . the problem is more the likly in the cruse servo . thjere are gears in there witch wear out . you could buy a sppedo cable for a car with our cruise and by pass it . or replace the cruse servo

80 challenger was my project i went with www.car-part.com they had almost everthing some stuff came from jegs.good luck you will love her when shes done.

Is the rotor turning in the distributor? If so, most likely the problem is in the madnetic pickup in the distributor. If not, pull the distributor out and see if the gear on the shaft is broken. A good gear on the distributor and the distributor not turning means you need a timing chain!!!

If you can't locate a leak using a pressure tester the only other place the coolant can go is into the engine. You're burning the coolant through a blown head gasket or cracked head, not usually a cracked block. This crack won't seal with stop leak and probably only opens enough to leak when the engine temperature, ambient temperature and engine speed are at a certain point so really hard to duplicate in the shop. Sorry to say it's time to tear it down. I hope this helps. Take Care. ps when you have the heads off replace all the hard cracked hoses it's easier now.

Honestly You need to hook up scan tool. You can find information in alarm triggers..It will tell you why the alarm was triggered...Like drivers door,trunck,key fob and so on...Then diagnoss the troubled area. I have'nt seen any one thing that was most common...It could be any of the things mentioned. or more. The list is longer.

seems that your brake booster is leaking, diconect vacum hose to brake booster and pluged press your brake pedal, noise is gone? there you found it you need a new booster, may be hard to find? dont know make sure when your replace it, to mesure the length of front rod or you end up locking up your brakes after a short drive,
hope it helps

Only thing I can tell, with all you've checked, is the power to the gage isn't there. If the tank sending unit ground to frame is not connected, the gage will go past the full mark. No power to the gage it will stay at empty side. Power goes from fuse to gage, gage to sending unit and back to gage. Make sure the fuse is good on both sides of it. The gage just isn't getting power from the fuse.

try bleeding the master cylinder at the lines first as it indicates that there is still air in the pistons loosen one line at a time and gently apply the brakes until any air bubbles come out tighten the line before releasing the brake pedal do it for the other line and then bleed all the brakes starting at the longest line first and ending at the shortest line

Take it back.

Fuel filter or pump

Hello Steve Lemke, My guess would be you are all EXQUISITE if you are at 6 PSI & 20 to 30 GPH @ 1800 RPM. That was the red engine, not the blue... I have THE FACTORY books buried in the basement... I've seen two: 6 to 7.5 (not to exceed) and Manual pump pressure (psi): 4 to 5.5 psi Hope this helps. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/plymouth,1970,cuda,5.6l+340cid+v8,1231726,fuel/air,fuel+pump,6256 http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1970,challenger,5.6l+340cid+v8,1078433,fuel/air,fuel+pump,6256 Incorrect flow rating (pretty sure): More Information for CARTER M6866

pull off pos bat cable for approx. 1 minute then reinstall

The intake air temperature (IAT) sensor is located on the intake tube. Simply lift up on the engine cover to remove the cover. Near the front of the engine on the intake air tube will be a small 2 wire sensor, this is the IAT. Lift the release tab and rotate 1/4 turn to the left to remove it. Nate I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/nathan_cc888cf971f43e78

forget all that , its the door latch, there is a switch in it, when you shut the door it actuates the door glass, replace it and it will work, about 150 for a new one, Matt/by the way its inside the door, it takes three screws to remove it and unplug the wires,you have to take the door skins off, itas not hard to do but be carefull, not to scatch it up, Matt, this also running the windoes up and down till th battery goes dead

Is your radiator fluid up where it should be? Low fluid will do this.

as you have a fairly new vehicle i'd say it is worth it and yes it will be behind the dash but you may not have to remove the whole dash, start with the heater control knobs , does the hot/cold control feel as thought it is just turning with no resistence ? if so the control cable could be the issue so remove the control panel and see if the hot/cold control cable is in tact, if so have a good look as to where the cable goes removing parts as neccesary, you should get to a point where you will be able to see the hot/cold air box and if the cable is connected to the flap ,if it is try moving the flap with your hand as may just need a bit of a shove to get moving again if this is the case try to lubricate the hinged part , use vaseline as will not cause fumes when gets hot as grease may do , by now you should have a good idea how the heater box can be removed if neccessary, take things slowly ,i have heard that some later model vehicles have a vacuum controlled heater vent , i have no experience of this system, mainly because i'm in the uk and it seems to be a usa car manufacturer system, so you may get advice referring to this from other fixya posters,which is absolutely fine and helps me learn as well, keep me posted if you wish