20 Most Recent 1983 Dodge Challenger Questions & Answers

Start with the control module,I think it is located under coil on this model,You have checked the rotor to see if it is turning haven`t you?If it is not you may need a timing chain.

you need to update the wiring on the rear on place diodes in the circuir to keep them from backfeeding.

The magic number is 55 ft. lbs, according to Motor. Hope this helps.

ignition control module possibly?

the cylindrical part may be a cruse control servo . the problem is more the likly in the cruse servo . thjere are gears in there witch wear out . you could buy a sppedo cable for a car with our cruise and by pass it . or replace the cruse servo

80 challenger was my project i went with www.car-part.com they had almost everthing some stuff came from jegs.good luck you will love her when shes done.

Is the rotor turning in the distributor? If so, most likely the problem is in the madnetic pickup in the distributor. If not, pull the distributor out and see if the gear on the shaft is broken. A good gear on the distributor and the distributor not turning means you need a timing chain!!!

If you can't locate a leak using a pressure tester the only other place the coolant can go is into the engine. You're burning the coolant through a blown head gasket or cracked head, not usually a cracked block. This crack won't seal with stop leak and probably only opens enough to leak when the engine temperature, ambient temperature and engine speed are at a certain point so really hard to duplicate in the shop. Sorry to say it's time to tear it down. I hope this helps. Take Care. ps when you have the heads off replace all the hard cracked hoses it's easier now.

Honestly You need to hook up scan tool. You can find information in alarm triggers..It will tell you why the alarm was triggered...Like drivers door,trunck,key fob and so on...Then diagnoss the troubled area. I have'nt seen any one thing that was most common...It could be any of the things mentioned. or more. The list is longer.

seems that your brake booster is leaking, diconect vacum hose to brake booster and pluged press your brake pedal, noise is gone? there you found it you need a new booster, may be hard to find? dont know make sure when your replace it, to mesure the length of front rod or you end up locking up your brakes after a short drive,
hope it helps

Only thing I can tell, with all you've checked, is the power to the gage isn't there. If the tank sending unit ground to frame is not connected, the gage will go past the full mark. No power to the gage it will stay at empty side. Power goes from fuse to gage, gage to sending unit and back to gage. Make sure the fuse is good on both sides of it. The gage just isn't getting power from the fuse.

try bleeding the master cylinder at the lines first as it indicates that there is still air in the pistons loosen one line at a time and gently apply the brakes until any air bubbles come out tighten the line before releasing the brake pedal do it for the other line and then bleed all the brakes starting at the longest line first and ending at the shortest line

Take it back.

Fuel filter or pump