I have a 2004 dodge ram quad cab 2500 5.9 diesel 4x4 it is hard to start you have to crank it for awhile, lets say for 10 seconds or so before the engine starts cranking faster as though it is picking up fuel and then it will start. The fuel mileage has become worse a little at a time. I cleaned the filter cover and in side housing, then the check engine light came on i took it to auto zone they put the computer on it it said maf sensor bad, we could have messed it up but would it make it hard to start as if not getting enough fuel or could the feed/lift pump be bad too. Does this truck have any other pumps besides the injector and the lift pump that feeds the injector pump or filters other than the canister filter i changed trying to fix this problem.
The lift pump is bad Check the fuel pressure with a test gauge.
Posted on May 10, 2009
2003 DODGE QUAD CAB 1500 RAM
LEFT TRAILER TURN SIGNAL NOT WORKING. TRUCK SIGNAL WORKING BOTH LEFT AND RIGHT, TRAILER RIGHT SIGNAL WORKS. FRACTORY FOUR WIRE PLUG ON TRUCK HAS NO POWER IN WIRE. CLICKING SOUND UNDER OR INSIDE FUSE BOX IN LEFT SIGNAL ON . STOPS WHEN YOU REMOVE FUSE FOR LEFT TRAILER SIGNAL. WHEN RIGHT TURN ON NO SOUNDS FROM FUSE BOX.
2004 Dodge Ram has no trailer left turn light but all others on trailer and truck work ok. No voltage on trailer jack and have traced yellow wire to plug inside left fender well after removing plastic liner. Wire then disappears into large bundle that ends up at fuse box. Now what?
I have seen once before that the fuse box was bad on a 2003 Dodge 3500. I had power in and nothing out. We had to replace the box. Not cheap! Hope it is simple like a loose connection though. I think I had to pull the inner fender on the drivers side to access the bottom of the fuse box. Pain in the ****, but...
Posted on Oct 01, 2009
what tools do i need to replace brake pads on my 2006 dodge ram2500 4x4 diesel .front and back trying to do it my self and are autozone pads okay
Straight forward job. Remove wheels, remove 2 caliper bolts per wheel, check bolts,and bushings for wear/corrosion and lubricate, remove calipers, remove brake pads, push caliper pistons into calipers, replace anti-rattle clips, put new pads in, put caliper and bolts in, put wheels on. Start truck and press brake pedal several times to take up slack and you're done.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
I wish I had Googled this before going through the effort of removing all the electrical from the harness in the back and the underside of my dash. Everything tested good everywhere. I could have saved myself a lot of effort too had I been aware of the quick connect right under the driver's cab. I was about to rip out the fuse box to test there when I Googled, now here I am.
Anyways, all the electrical works on the truck. The problem is with the trailer plug. There is no power going to the left side turn or brake lights.
I initially thought is was a bad ground, (because historically, that's usually the fail poin on trailer electrical) and even though this is a brand new travel trailer, I checked it anyways. When that wasn't the case I checked all the trailer electrical, by having someone else's truck connect to it.
The problem is definately within the towing package of the truck itself. I've tested under the dash and the harness all the way upto the connecter under the cab behind the wheel-well.
Some people have commented that it is PCB within the fuse box itself. Does anyone have any solutions or more information about this yet?
Thanks in advance.
Well you are not ALONE .....my 06 3500 does the same thing. no left turn or brake lite on towing. would love to know the solution before taking an AXE to it!!! thank you jesse
Posted on Feb 06, 2010
I have a 2003 dodge 2500 4x4 diesel that the front wheel axle universal joints are bad. I basically need to know how to dissasemble and re-assemble everything for this project.
remove front wheel brakes,rotors, axle nut,remove the four bolts on the bake side of your unit bearing using one of the 4 bolts removed from the unit bearing (also knowin as wheel bearing) go get a half dozen of the same bolt only 1 to 2 inchs longer theard them into the unit bearing from the back side and start beating. the unit bearing is a sob to get out but will come out with time once you get it out pull out your axle shaft replace the ujoint and reassemble anti seize everything as you re assemble it
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
water pump needs replacement.cummins diesel
the water pumps on these engines are some of the easiest to replace. just take the belt loose. unbolt the water pump and pull it out. scrape whatever pieces of the old gasket are on the block off. and install new water pump and gasket. the put the belt back on.
here is a better demonstration with pics:
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-tech-articles/182382-water-pump-thermostat-replacement.html
Posted on Oct 23, 2009
Anyways, all the electrical works on the truck. The problem is with the trailer plug. There is no power going to the left side turn or brake lights.
I initially thought is was a bad ground, (because historically, that's usually the fail poin on trailer electrical) and even though this is a brand new travel trailer, I checked it anyways. When that wasn't the case I checked all the trailer electrical, by having someone else's truck connect to it.
The problem is definately within the towing package of the truck itself. I've tested under the dash and the harness all the way upto the connecter under the cab behind the wheel-well.
Some people have commented that it is PCB within the fuse box itself.
Well let me shed some light on this issue. I have the same problem. Trailer connection from truck does not have power to left turn signal and left brake light. I just got back from the dealership and $100.00 labor charge. My problem is the TIPM (Fuse Box for short) and FCM (little silver module hooked to the Fuse Box on the left hand side of the fuse box). $910.00 for the parts and Chrysler doesn't have any in stock. 4-6 weeks to maybe fill a back order. I am currently researching an alternative way to fix this issue. I will let you know.
Posted on Jun 30, 2010
2003 Dodge Ram 2500 5.7 Hemi, Red lighting bolt on lower right of dash comes on. When this happens the motor will not pick up speed from standing start till you press the gas pedal on down, then it revs and really goes. The tach and motor is racing up and down. It will smooth out after getting up to around 30 mph. Could this be the speed sensor?
Hi, if you don't have a manual, you can get a free download here: http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/manuals/
The lightning bolt indicates a fault in the electronic throttle control. It is likely the rheostat/potentiometer in the accelerator position sensor is dirty or worn out. I have pasted info on the part below from autozone.com. If you replace the sensor, be sure to follow the calibration procedure at the end of the installation instructions. Please let me know if you have any questions and thanks for using FixYa.
Operation
The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) assembly is located under the vehicle battery tray. A cable connects the assembly to the accelerator pedal. A plastic cover with a movable door is used to cover the assembly.
NOTE
The APPS is used only with the 5.7L V-8 engine.
The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) is a linear potentiometer. It provides the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with a DC voltage signal proportional to the angle, or position of the accelerator pedal. The APPS signal is translated (along with other sensors) to place the throttle plate (within the throttle body) to a pre-determined position.
A mechanical cable is used between the accelerator pedal and the APPS assembly. Although a cable is used between the pedal and APPS, a mechanical cable is not used at the throttle body. Throttle plate position is electrically determined.
The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) assembly is located under the vehicle battery tray. A cable connects the assembly to the accelerator pedal. A plastic cover with a movable door is used to cover the assembly.
NOTE
The APPS is used only with the 5.7L V-8 engine.
The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) is a linear potentiometer. It provides the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with a DC voltage signal proportional to the angle, or position of the accelerator pedal. The APPS signal is translated (along with other sensors) to place the throttle plate (within the throttle body) to a pre-determined position.
A mechanical cable is used between the accelerator pedal and the APPS assembly. Although a cable is used between the pedal and APPS, a mechanical cable is not used at the throttle body. Throttle plate position is electrically determined.
Removal & Installation
The APPS is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the sensor, plastic housing and cable. The APPS assembly is located under the vehicle battery tray. Access to APPS is gained from over top of left / front tire.
To Install:
NOTE
The DRB III Scan Tool may also be used to learn electrical parameters. Go to the Miscellaneous menu, and then select ETC Learn.
Posted on Jan 29, 2011
were is a egr located at on a dodge ram 2500 hemi
First, without meaning to be a ****, I would like to say a few things to help keep you from spending your hard-earned cash that you probably cannot afford to throw away.
1. Your vehicle is equipped with an electronically controlled EGR Solenoid Valve. Failure of these valves are EXTREMELY RARE (Although many parts outlets sell thousands of them based on their "FREE" diagnostics).
2. If you do not know where the EGR valve is, then you could not possibly have tested it properly. If you have not tested it, then you cannot possibly know for certain that your vehicle needs an EGR Valve to fix whatever problem you are attempting to repair.
3. MOST EGR system failure codes are NOT caused by the EGR Valve itself. The most likely cause of an EGR code is clogged EGR ports (Which can be fixed with a gasket, a little elbow grease, and a can of carb cleaner). EGR control circuits i.e. wires, connectors, etc. run a close second in the code-causing category.
Please also read this article: What Else Could Be Wrong?
Now that I have done my preaching (and hopefully, helped to keep you from wasting your money), the answer to your question is that the EGR Solenoid Valve is located on the right front of your engine. (See picture)
Posted on May 14, 2011
The engine has a noticeable shake at idle and pronounced miss as the revs climb up until about 1600-1700rpm when it smooths out. I had a cylinder drop test done and number one cylinder was at 70% contribution when cold and steadily climbed up to about 95% as the engine warmed up. Did not and still do not have any trouble codes showing. The tech and I both agreed that its more than likely the injector, I installed a new oem injector and nothing changed. Valve lash is within spec, no excessive blowby thru the vent tube or the valve cover, engine does not use oil nor does it make any unusual mechanical noises...is a compression test my next logical step or has someone experienced this problem before?
Do a cylinder leak down test
If you did an electrical cylinder contribution test
& got 70% I would say you have valve issues
Posted on Jan 08, 2013
1,028 questions posted
Usually answered in minutes!
129 Questions
753 Questions
435 Questions
336 Questions
345 Questions
